Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Rocket Oldsmobile V8 Information Compiled

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Zaloryan, Jul 10, 2012.

  1. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,214

    F&J
    Member

    I might be able to look up the number on your starter to see if you have the right one.
    I know I have older numbers in my books, but I will look.

    .
     
  2. I post up what I have tomorrow when I get a chance to look at it. Thanks
     
  3. Curbspeed, Tony has the gear reduction starters in stock FWIW.
     
  4. I saw that on his website. I'm afraid to ask how much. He has no prices listed. Maybe if he sees this he can chime in. There is one listed on Ebay for $205 right now. Not sure of the quality.
     
  5. Freaky1
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 85

    Freaky1
    Member

    While I suppose anything is actually possible, I've learned that when someone a background like yours says "but I don't think it will be easy" I can guarantee it will not be easy and more likely next to impossible. Thanks for the advice Jon and I had already been to your site, poked around a bit, and was very impressed. I really didn't think linking all three together would be possible but sometimes you've just got to ask.

    I've got to get the chassis finished before winter and get the heads and manifold off to the head shop soon. Once they are all back and the snow is flying I'll start a thread on getting the 303 ready and the J-2 working and finished up. Thanks to everyone for the advice, I appreciate it.
     
  6. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,360

    J. A. Miller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Central NY

  7. az2bc
    Joined: Aug 17, 2016
    Posts: 11

    az2bc

    Does anyone know about the Studebaker adjustable rocker arm swap?

    I have a 58 371... If you could spell it out for idiots like me, that would be great.

    Also of note,
    Pertronix Ignitor III 71181 with their coil, wires and a msd cap look stock but run like those points never did. Ever.

    Also,
    58 olds 9.3 rear brake cylinders not stocked at local parts places and $$$ at fusick. A couple years later Olds rear cylinders Dorman W13387 & W13388 (autozone 33004 & 33005) are a little bigger, but fit and are $7 at summit or $12 at the zone.

    I couldn't figure out what to swap in the front, so had to pay fusick $55 each or some such nonsense.
     
  8. Freaky1
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 85

    Freaky1
    Member

    Goodies have arrived and I think the J-2 will be shelved for now.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I've got all the goodies for the heads in a box. I think I've got enough options for now, time to get started on making the Henry J ready for this Rocket Power Plant.
     
    gonzo, Paul, loudbang and 1 other person like this.
  9. clunker
    Joined: Feb 23, 2011
    Posts: 1,613

    clunker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Boston MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    I'm a fan of the 4jets, are you going to run them?
     
  10. Freaky1
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 85

    Freaky1
    Member

    Probably, I've got a couple other options but since they came with the intake & they seem to be in decent shape they are going to get the attention. My goal is to have the J done to run at the Hot Rod Dirt Drags next June. That's not very far off so the path of least resistance is the one I'm choosing.
     
    clunker likes this.
  11. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Im curious about the early 4jets as well, you see them a lot back then, but now everyone seems to run dual WCFB's
     
  12. So i can run higher ratio rockers on an 49 to 51 engine with stock pushrods and valve springs ?
     
  13. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,886

    Paul
    Editor

    generally speaking, yes.
    although the '49-'50 used 1/4" pushrods,
    I would swap in new 5/16" pushrods
     
  14. Dont i also need new rocker shaft supports ?
     
  15. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,886

    Paul
    Editor

    Yes, complete rocker assembly, towers, shafts and rockers.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. I've got a question regarding 394 heads.
    I have a 394 in my F100 with #20 heads. When I bought it was advertised as a Skyrocket, but I'm not sure how to confirm this, or what the difference is between a skyrocket and a regular 394.
    I have another, non running, 394 with #23 Starfire heads.
    Are these heads worth swapping out with my #20 heads?
    What all is different between the regular 394, Skyrocket 394, and the Starfire 394?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. saltracer219
    Joined: Sep 23, 2006
    Posts: 760

    saltracer219
    Member

    Tony @ Ross Racing may chime in here, but I believe that the difference in those different versions was compression and cam. The starfire had a hotter grind cam for sure.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,886

    Paul
    Editor

    yes, Tony should chime in but,
    the #23 heads were the last version of early Olds heads and were what went on the late Starfires and 98s
    "Ultra High Compression" engines..
    they changed the shape of the combustion chamber to produce a better burn with the higher compression ratios.
    higher compression was done using steel shim gaskets
    higher horsepower engines also had a performance grind camshaft,
    only way to know if you have one would be to pull the timing cover and gear and look at the front of the cam.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  19. Blownolds
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    Blownolds
    Member
    from So Cal

    Just some input:
    --#18 heads were '59-60 394 and 371 (not to be confused with '57-8 371 which had the same bore/stroke dimensions but were a shorter deck block). These heads had a combustion chamber and exhaust ports that were different from later 394 heads
    --#20 heads were '61-non-Starfire. These had the same exhaust ports as the later #23's, but the combustion chamber was unique to the #20's.
    --#23 heads were '61 Starfire (hence the old-school nickname "Starfire heads"), and all '62-4 394. These had the same exhaust ports as #20's, but also had their own combustion chamber.

    I cannot offer any other info on stock valve sizes, stock springs, or other possible casting differences. But hopefully the above info may be of assistance.
     
    loudbang and Speedy Canuck like this.
  20. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    great to see you posting again Blownolds!
     
    saltracer219 likes this.
  21. Freaky1
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 85

    Freaky1
    Member

    So I got me a set of #10 heads and need to get gaskets. Input on better ones, or ones to avoid? I know the quote says Cometic but I'd like some other opinions from those that know.

    I hadn't planned on changing the cam in my '49 303 but with adding the new heads I want to make sure I hit all the bases. I had thought about getting new valve guides, rods, and springs but am thinking if I do that I should do new rockers as well. Now my obsessiveness flies into high gear, new rockers should have new rocker shafts right? But then what about the cam towers and new rocker shafts? If I've done all that do I really want my new rods riding on a 67 year old cam with who knows how many miles on it.

    All this started with these new heads that are currently disassembled. I don't want to rebuild the entire engine right now, hopefully next winter, but would it be a good idea to do all this head work now? I really just want to get the J on the road this summer for a handful of good times. I already have a list of things on the car itself that are on the "next winter" list. Should this head work be something I could do now and have one less thing on next winter's list?
     
  22. I would call Tony at Ross Racing. He has cams and can tell you what gaskets to use. He should know the best as he builds a lot of Olds engines. And yes I would do the heads over with all valves, guides etc. Replace the old lifters with new SBC ones and replace the push rods with new 5/16 pieces. When I did my #10's the machinist used Z28 valves and hardware. Some mods required but it is all new now.
     
    Freaky1, loudbang and Paul like this.
  23. Blownolds
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    Blownolds
    Member
    from So Cal

    Thanks, Falcongeorge. Unfortunately, I ended up leaving the hobby indefinitely. Sold or scrapped just about everything by now. But glad to offer input whenever possible!
     
  24. Blownolds
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    Blownolds
    Member
    from So Cal

     
  25. Blownolds
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 2,335

    Blownolds
    Member
    from So Cal

    Cometic had a great reputation among race engine builders as of a few years ago. I've been out of the loop for a few years now, so can't say if anything has changed since then.
    I'd be surprised if they offer early Olds off-the-shelf as opposed to a custom-ordered run, but anything is possible.

    Definitely use the gasket that corresponds to the head, not to the block!

    If putting the larger-valve '56 324 #10 heads on a 303 block, then I'd imagine that you'd probably need to enlarge the bore size to the 324 size, as I think someone else mentioned.

    FWIW, I think I once saw some '57-8 371 heads (either the rare #14 or the standard #16) on a 324 block once. I cannot remember what the intake manifold was, but probably a 2-piece I'd guess. Or perhaps a 1-piece 371 intake might also fit if machine work was performed?? Dunno. I'm not an expert on the 324's.
    Also have no idea if a 1-piece 324 intake could be made to work with '57-8 heads on a 324 block. Perhaps someone else knows.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  26. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I bought your NOS offset valve guides.;):) on head gaskets, I got a pair of NOS J-2 steel shims for mine, but its a '56 324 with #10's and my intent is to take it out to 4".
     
  27. John C. Krag
    Joined: Dec 5, 2016
    Posts: 3

    John C. Krag

    New Rotella doesn't have enough zinc in it. You have to use a break-in oil from Amsoil,Comp Cams,Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs. Once cam is broken in you need to run a high zinc/phos oil to keep cam/lifters happy.
     

  28. I have 371 #16 heads on my 54 324 block. The motor is .060 over, and I run a weiand 03d intake for a 324. The ports were matched to the heads. [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  29. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 458

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    I picked up a set of 55, 324 #8, heads for my 49, 303. I'm getting ready to send them out for new valves ,guides, and seats. What size and type of valves should I use. Do I need to stick with olds or go with a Chevy style.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  30. On my #10's I believe that the shop that did the work used Z28 parts. Dave50 did the work in his shop down in MA.
     
    gonzo, loudbang and Freaky1 like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.