The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Zaloryan, Jul 10, 2012.
Maybe this will be helpful.
I picked up a set of barely used Comp 26986 beehive valve springs today. Think they will work on the 56 Olds heads with a couple modifications. They're the same free height as a factory 371 beehive spring. About .2 smaller ID at the bottom/big end and about .07 smaller ID at the top. If I use the right Comp retainers I should just maybe have to modify the seat where they sit in the head.
371 stock left. Comp 26986 right.
Specs on the 26986
Thank you, this helps a lot
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Hello everyone. I know it’s been over a year now since the last posting on this thread. I stumbled on this and just finished binge reading this thread. I have a dilemma was hoping to find some help or direction from any of you guys who have posted on here. I have a ‘56 Olds 324 with the #10 heads and am having the engine rebuilt by someone who has rebuilt other engines for me in the past. Just got a call from him and was told that one of the heads has a crack. So I am looking for a head or pair of heads to buy. Wanted to get advice from the experts on here of what my options are or if anyone knows of anything for sale. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I’m really determined to power my new project (33 5 window) with an olds rocket. Thanks.
Contact Tony at Ross Racing engines in Niles Ohio, he will have what you need.
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In addition to Tony try this forum:
I see that @jakespeed63 had some 56 parts a while back or perhaps Frank @F&J may know of one hanging around
This guy's ad says he has a set of rebuilt #10 heads for sale. This is a screenshot in case you are interested.
I recently disassembled my 1959 371 to check everything and have the crank balanced for mating the engine to an earlier Jetaway later. Can someone give me the standard dia on main and rod journals on the crank and how much of clearence I should aim for please. Will see what kind of work will be needed additionally to the crank.
from 1959 Oldsmobile Service Manual
Thanks a lot, Paul!
If you guys are interested in the progress I made with this project please look here
I will do more work to it this weekend.
I thought I'd share this Eric Rickman article where he strokes his '54 Olds using a brand new '57 371 crank and heads. Haven't seen it posted before. I'm not sure if this is the one he had in his Corvette or not. That one had Potvin flathead style floating bearings in the lower end I think so this one is probably a different car.
Hey guys, I need your help once more. I was at an engine builders shop with the crank of my 1959 371 and since the washer section of the no.5 main bearing at the crank shows some wear he asked me if I know if the undersized main bearings are greater in width. Does someone know if a .020 rear main shows more width than a stock one?
Or does someone have some left overs from a previous built?
What can I do if the main bearings aren't wider?
Is it possible to add some material via welding some to the "washer section"?
I mean the section of the crank where the axial load is catched (from a clutch for example).
Here is a pic of my rear main bearing with a really eat up rear side
That is the thrust surface of the crank, to my knowledge there is no one that manufactures an overlength bearing, your engine builder should know this! The repair is to have the crank grinding shop weld the thrust and grind it back to standard, this is a common repair that your machinest also should know about. Find a experienced Automotive Machinest/Engine builder, it will save you money in the long run.
Please keep in mind that I am over here in Germany and old V8s are not that common at the engine builder shops. The guy there told me that he knows both options when it comes to main bearings in old american iron. He said I should check if there are some manufacturers that offer wider mains to just grind the thrust section. He had a few V8s in the shop when I was there. Was boring out a Flathead for sleeves. He was open minded about the work that I want to bring in bis shop and I see that as a plus. He also told me about a 1955 Rocket he did a while ago and I know the car. So I think it can‘t be the worst adress to bring my stuff to. Most of the guys over here in this business doing stuff they know of and that is normally not what I want them to work on
But if there is now way to purchase wider bearings I will have to go the route on welding some material to the flange.
...after you read the Ross Racing Engines thread...
His website is dead, and has been for a while
I posted this in December & had recently ordered parts from Tony & received them. I had no knowledge of any issues then.................
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I did not realise you are across the pond. The crankshaft in question is forged steel. The thrust flange is damaged quite badly but a quality crank repair shop will be able to weld repair that thrust area and return it to as new condition.
Did some Updates in my Oldsmobile related content.
Since I was searching for parts for the rebuild I came across some questions some of you may be able to answer. There are a few main bearing sets in the bay that are from Federal Mogul, Michigan and other brands. I know that some of the guys over here swear on Federal Mogul NOS bearings more than modern aftermarket parts. What do you guys think and does someone of you know what Quality Michigan Bearings are?
I noticed that there are not that many options to get 59-60 371 pistons from. Egge does not list them and Kanter did but not showing the available sizes. The question is, is Kanter producing the pistons themselves or where did they get it from?
Hey guys, quick question. I read about putting later 1.8 rockers onto a 303. My uncle is building a 303. He has two good used 303 cams that he was looking into getting reground. I was wondering what the 303 specs were from the factory? If he just puts the bigger rockers on with the stock cam will he get in the range he was looking at with th reground? He was looking at something in the .485 valve lift with a 260 duration. Nothing big, its going in front of early ford running gear.
Also, anything special required to do this swap?
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If you have the cam out of the engine measure a lobe the big direction and then subtract the small direction. That will be your cam lift. Then multiply that by 1.8 and that will be your valve lift. Put another way, to get .485 lift at the valve with 1.8 rockers you'd need about .270 at the cam. Remember that unless you have adjustable rocker arms you'll need custom pushrods if you run a regrind. Those numbers you stated don't look so big now but that would have probably been a full race cam back then. That was pretty huge lift for the day.
One also needs to remember that a 1.8 rocker loads the cam lobe much heavier than a 1.5 ratio rocker making cam lobe failure a much greater possibility. Talk to your cam grinder and machinest about this.
just found an old article building the 303 in 1952. they used the 1.8's on the stock cam and got an extra 16hp. stock cam was .222 lift (cam) for 49-51 according to the articl. dropped to .203 when the 1.8 rockers came out. this would give .399 lift at the valve putting the 1.8 on a 49-51 cam.
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