The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Zaloryan, Jul 10, 2012.
Yes, that's it
Yep. It is the square-headed pipe plug in my picture. Both these other engines must have had something hooked up to it. Do you know what it was? Oil gauge?
My 88 has the factory oil gauge hooked up to this port.
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Does someone know what kind of screws I'll need to mount my jetaway to the block? How many and what size? I think I will have to organize them over here.
I really need a flexplate now to mount everything to my car. Does someone have a 1956 Jetaway flexplate for sale? Please contact me!
I found a plate and hopefully it's now on its way to germany
Some of Tony's work and special parts at Ross racing engine
Ran it raced it drove it without a hitch.
Some pics of engines I am unsure of. Have a about 10 blocks, heads, cranks 303 to 394.
Anyone who can help ?
here are the engine tab numbers that will help
1949--8A1001 TO 8A193864 H PREFIX=HYDRA MATIC
1950--8A194001 TO 8A568689 H PREFIX= HYDRA MATIC
1951--8C1001 TO 8C287312 B PREFIX= SYNCHROMESH
1952--8R1001 TO 8R214478
1953--R215001 TO R549482
1954--V1001 TO V355083
1955--V400001 TO V983275
1956--A001001 TO A385513
your A207 block is most likely a '56 and should have #10 heads
For 1956 year "only"...the above "A" code applies only to 1956 with the new Jetaway A/T. The Jetaway was only available on Super 88 and 98.
1956 standard shift and the 1956 base model 88 still used the older 4 speed hydro if it came as A/T car...the code for those two 1956 motors will be a "V' code...not the A
Hey guys, I need your help as usual. I scored the 3speed that was mounted behind my 371 a few weeks ago. The clutch and flywheel looks really bad. What kind of clutch did they use in 1959 in those setup and could I buy a Chevy 1959 clutch at rockauto since nothing is advertised for 1959 Olds manual trans?
Plan is to resurface the flywheel on a lathe and if it is possible, use a 11 Inch Clutch from a chevy.
Like one of those (maybe the 11" sachs):
Here are pics of what I have here:
10,5 inch clutch
Probably 1,125 Inch inner diameter with 10 tooth
I don't know how you call that part of the clutch assy. Wondering if those closed holes are part of the externally balancing?!
And the bad cracked surface of my flywheel.
Is it a kind of GM standard transmission?
How about the possibilties to use a floor shifter on this thing?
Send your flywheel to an automotive machine shop to be resurfaced. They grind them flat.
use Centerforce 381040 Clutch Disc (Fits 88-94 F Super Duty)
or equivalent, assuming you are using the stock stick transmission.
check spline diameter and count as well as total diameter.
get the disk and pressure plate rebuilt. might be less $$$$, ???????? The tranny is a selector unit and adapting a floor shift is tricky at best. Even the after market ones from back in the day left a lot to be desired. They are extremely rare.
I had a selector come in the shop on a trade that had a home built unit attached. I believe Frank @F&J was originally involved in the design. It was never used in a vehicle. It came in on a trade for one of my 37 Buick boxes that had been converted to the Olds gearing.
This what an Ansen unit looked like back in the day:
And what the home fab job looks like:
And for the record what a 37 Buick conversion looks like:
This tranny has the long tail stock from an Olds 98.
As far as the flywheel is concerned I would machine it as they are also very hard to find. It should be an externally balanced unit. usually you can tell from looking at the rear of the unit like this one:
Paul, since I can't found the Centerfold clutch disk I searched for equivalent parts on rockauto and summit. I found a clutch kit from summit with:
Input Spline Quantity: 10
Input Shaft Diameter: 1.250 in.
Disc Diameter (in): 11.063 in.
Disc Diameter (mm): 281mm
The disc diameter is round about 1 mm above the total dia of my pressure plate. if I'm going to reuse the old pressure plate, will this be a problem?
The most of the other clutch disks I found are 12 inch (rockauto).
The other specs above sounds like it should work in my case.
If I'm buying the clutch kit for a F250, will the pressure plate bolt right onto my original flywheel or do I have to reuse the original pressure plate or drill new bolt holes in the flywheel?
Thanks guys for the help. I don't understand how the home fab job should work. I just see the oportunity to move it sideways but not longitudinal. Maybe I will think about an own home fab job when the other problems are solved.
I was just asking about the possibilties to do a floor shift conversion because my 1955 Olds was an auto trans and I'm not sure if it is possible to use the og steering shift assy for the manual trans.
Another question about the externally balancing. Did they do it only with drilling the flywheel or is the pressure plate cradle part of the balancing job? Wondering about the plumed holes in my og cradle.
Edit: Did some more searching an found the LuK 07-076 clutch kit at rockauto for a neat price.
If it will work for my case it is the easiest way to realize the manual trans on my project.
I have a few selector floor shift kits. One DragFast is NOS and still in the box
I believe I have two Foxcraft floor shifters for selectors... I could be convinced to let one of them go to a good home
AH, and let the convincing start! There is the best deal for sure. They are hard to come by. didn't know Speedy was hoarding those
Like I have posted before, I made one for a '50 Buick I had with some angle iron, a piece of 1/2" steel rod and a couple of heim joints. The pattern was backwards, but that's an advantage when the shifter is sticking out of the floor (third is out of the way up towards the dash).
I go through phases. I think I have/had 5 or 6 selector floor conversions at one point.
Godsmobile, I feel that vtwhead, speedy, & Paul all have more knowledge about the almighty Olds in their pinky finger than I do but I just wanted to chime in. I'm putting a Saginaw behind my '49 303 and I'm running a 11" clutch from a mid 50's Chevy with the 1 1/8" spline to match the trans then I got a '65 Ford pressure plate from Rock Auto and everything fit and bolted up nice.
I was hoping I could get some clarification on something from the experts. I found and mounted a flywheel housing that swaps my starter to the passenger side. Now all I need is, apparently, a Cadillac starter and DISCO!
Of course I was asked which Cadillac starter I needed...and just when I was feeling good. Anyone have any information on specifics as to which Cadillac starter I should be looking for?
Paul has done this a while back with his T roadster I believe. Look up his posts and you will see what he did or maybe he will chime in here. I thought you could use an Olds starter but you have rephase the solenoid so that it does not hit the block. Never done one so I am not the best living resource
Freaky, the 1 1/8 spline clutch doesn't work for me cause this buick synchro mesh gearbox have a 1 1/4 input shaft diameter but if the F250 pressure plate will not bolt right onto my flywheel it could be a solution to use a 65 Ford pressure plate. It would be cooler if the LUK 07-076 will work for me since it is coming as a kit.
I checked out the 65 Ford F250 clutch kits on rockauto and just from looking at it it seems to be the same design of the pressure plate like the og olds I have there. But if I get it right the input shaft diameter of the clutch disk is 1 1/16 in. so this won't work with the synchro mesh 3speed.
Everything I've ever read about this, is that you need a Cadillac 6v starter from a Cad flathead (?). Basically, they're not existent. Or at least, I've never seen anything about someone who found one.
Paul used an Olds starter and rotated the solenoid over on his starter. Extended one of the legs of the mounting flange, drilled and tapped new holes in the starter (iirc) and then made a Z to connect the solenoid to the starter.
The old Hotrod magazine install tells you to just dimple the oil pan to make it fit.
If anyone else has done this (installed a starter "switchover") or has more information about it, I would appreciate anything that anyone can contribute. I thought the tough work was over when I finally located and purchased the Offenhauser lower housing, but obviously not. Dimpling the pan sounds like a last resort to me. Can the starters be "clocked" some way? I've done that with flathead fuel pumps and it works great.
I found a buick starter nose and modifyed the olds starter to accept it.
Yeah, I outlined the basic process that Paul did in my post above. If you go digging through his threads, you should find pictures.
@Paul's tech is gold.
Thanks for posting that. I realize the pain ain't over yet, but now I know how to deal with it.
Many years ago we used International Truck Clutch discs in our hot rod.
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