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Technical Roadster Getting wind blown

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jamoke, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. Jamoke
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 560

    Jamoke
    Member

    And you thought you were going to read about a supercharger just took the Roadster out on the expressway today for the first time pretty windy out I was getting blown around the expressway had the top on don't know if it would make a difference without the top anybody else have these problems
     
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  2. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 777

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sorry, but no! Doubt the top would make much difference. Immediate thoughts? Insufficient caster or a kind of bump steer effect caused by the rocking of the body with the wind gusts.

    Chris
     
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  3. Jamoke
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 560

    Jamoke
    Member

    No there's definitely no Castor problem
     
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  4. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,586

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    I think the top being up could easily make a difference. With windows or side curtains in place, the total side area is increased, compared to top down.....with no windows, the top is perhaps an even greater 'wind catcher' and exerts more force on the vehicles stability.
     
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  5. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 413

    Doublepumper
    Member

    Insufficient speed.........:D
     
  6. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,131

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    I’ve noticed wind being a problem in my old roadster, even with no top, blowing past big rigs the air bubble would push the car around or high winds on the long openness of I-5 would push the little roller skate around
     
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  7. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,389

    Fogger
    Member

    Top up seems to reduce wind turbulence compared to top down and wind wings help some. I removed the zip out rear window last year for the ride home from the LARS and the wind was worse. Not really the type of car for the wind sensitive. But they are sure cool.
     
  8. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,487

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just the fact of a light car . Our 32 3W doesn’t like real strong windy days (or I don’t anyway)
    Just gotta keep the speed down and be aware. On the highway you get the dirty air behind a big rig buffeting you , then pull out to pass and try to not get sucked in .
     
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  9. How stiff is your suspension?
     
  10. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,114

    2935ford
    Member

    Yup, I have the same issue. I had top up, top down, no matter same effects. Very light vehicle, bias ply and buggy suspension.....Henry never built these for 70 and above mph.
     
  11. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 677

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Since you're in an area of the country known for WIND, either stay off the expressway or get a fat gal over in the right seat to help hold your roadster on the road;)
     
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 25,382

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Light vehicle with a relatively flat side and most likely what amount to skinny tires are more of the issue than suspension. the
    Back when I was a teenager I had a 55 Nash Metropolitan rag top that may have weighted 1750 lbs with a full tank of gas and the wind would move it about 3 ft sideways going though cuts in the hills. Got pulled over by the staters one night and the first thing one said to the other was "he isn't drunk" as all three of us were leaning against the side of the car to stand up.
    I think we get too used to our Late model performance chassis OT cars and panic when the hot rod doesn't respond the same way we are used to them doing.
     
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  13. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,476

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

    Playing with tire PSI may help,but do you have a panhard rod on front axles?,looks like you do on rear,but could not see front that well? Your steering wheel size is ?? Just ideas
     
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  14. walter
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 596

    walter
    Member

    Wind catches my 29 pretty badly. Put that with Bias Ply tires and it makes you pay attention. Most of the time I just drop the road speed a little and it becomes manageable.
     
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  15. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 23,035

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    post pics of your ride - much bigger rides get bounced around in heavy wind too
     
  16. .............Let's not get personal.:D;)
     
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  17. Bill Rinaldi
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,628

    Bill Rinaldi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've seen some pretty nice looking SKINNY radial tires. Biggest difference in ride stability is radials. Even Coker admits that. Bill
     
  18. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,542

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    It's the nature of the beast, I get the same in my 35 phaeton on a good windy day with no side curtains on. You just get buffeted around as it's as aerodynamic as a cinder block. ;)
     
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  19. mark latham
    Joined: Oct 24, 2018
    Posts: 49

    mark latham
    Member

    I'm currently in Milwaukee for work and my rental caravan was getting blown all over I-41 today. Curb weight 4300 lbs. I would be surprised if you weren't getting blown around with the wind today.
     
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  20. Deescott
    Joined: Mar 1, 2017
    Posts: 202

    Deescott

    Don’t drive through Amarillo! Seriously, my least favorite driving conditions. Model As and heavy wind don’t go good together.
     
  21. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 3,228

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    Totally off topic, but my Freightliner condo gets shoved around in cross winds badly. You get enough wind and enough flat side area, and it's gonna shove you around. It would take a lot less wind to rock a lightweight roadster than the tall Freightliner, but the effect is the same, you hold on and try to stay in your lane. Heck, I've even had my off topic pickup pushed by strong winds, so it happens to everything at one time or another.
     
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  22. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,536

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    After making sure tie rod ends, king pins, steering box all of that stuff was tight.... alignment... One of the things that helped my open cars handling, more than anything, was making sure the preload on the front wheel bearings was properly set. It meant I had to file the retaining nut on the back side. This so the hole in the spindle and castle nut would align and the cotter key could be installed with proper preload on the bearings. Tightening and backing up the nut to where you can install the cotter key is usually too loose.

    Bet you have more play there than you realize.



    Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  23. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,303

    pprather
    Member

    @winduptoy, how tight should the spindle nut be when the cotter pin is installed through the castle nut? I need help with preload.
    Thanks.

    Phil
     
  24. < My car reminds me of flying in a Cessna 150!

    It was all over the road until I put on a rear anti-sway bar. It still hunts around a little bit at about 70 from the head wind, then at 80 it settles right down. I can drive with two fingers on the wheel.

    These things are about as aerodynamic as a brick!
     
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  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,723

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I’m interested in the answer to this also
     
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  26. Jamoke
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 560

    Jamoke
    Member

    20190611_113946.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  27. Jamoke
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 560

    Jamoke
    Member

    The proper adjustment of the two bearings in the hub assembly is one of the most important aspects of the installation process.

    Excessive tightening of the adjustment nut, otherwise known as excessive preload, can cause the type of rapid deep spalling shown in these pictures. This deep spalling occurs when the direct contact between rollers and raceway caused by excessive preload super heats the bearing, softening the material, and allowing chunks to be torn away from the raceway and rollers during operation.

    On the other side of the spectrum, loosening the adjustment nut too much will cause excessive end play in the bearings, allowing a rocking motion that disrupts the even distribution of force along the rollers. This, too, can cause bearing failure resulting in damage similar to that in this picture. As you can see, the damage is restricted to one section of the raceway that underwent extreme stress due to excessive end play.
    The key then is to hit the sweet spot between too much end play and not enough. For Timken bearings, this means achieving an end play between .001 inches and .005 inches. To help, Timken has established an easily measurable three step adjustment procedure.

    While rotating the rotor to ensure roper seating of the rollers, induce preload by using a torque wrench to tighten the adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds. Then loosen the adjusting nut one full turn. While continuing to rotate this rotor, re-torque the nut, this time to 10 foot pounds. Once again, loosen the adjusting nut, this time by only 1/6 to 1/4 turn. When step one is complete, place the bottle cap type stamping over the adjusting nut and properly install and secure the cotter pin to prevent the nut from backing off.

    Use a dial indicator to measure end play. Mount the indicator’s base as close to the center of the hub rotor as possible. With the indicator tip against the end of the spindle, set the indicator to zero. Grasp the rotor at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock and begin oscillating the rotor back and forth. While oscillating, push the rotor in and read the dial indicator. Then pull the rotor while still oscillating and read the dial indicator again. The bearing end play is equal to the total indicator movement, which should be between .001 and .005 inches.

    If you have not achieved the desired end play, repeat steps one and two.

    Once you achieve the desired end play, the adjustment process is complete. When properly done, this simple step by step adjustment process increases the life span of your bearings and significantly reduces the chance of damage.
     
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  28. chevyfordman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 770

    chevyfordman
    Member

    My channeled roadster doesn't have any problems, does have a panhard rod with vega steering box. DSCN2648.JPG
     
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  29. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 4,166

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Tom, you sound like a automotive shop school teacher :D .. try windwings and this helps a lot . I’m not a fan of the look but on long trips you dont get beat up as bad from turbulence .
    I also feel its better with the top down on windy days. With the top up seem like a wind tunnel in the car ..




     
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  30. Jamoke
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 560

    Jamoke
    Member

    Well took the hot rod for a ride down the same road today was not as windy as yesterday car handled great at 70 miles per hour still have the top on but my top may be a little loose making a lot of noise from flapping top is probably 10 years old probably needs a tightening up thank you for all the help and ideas just a cool ass car and a fun ride
     

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