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Hot Rods Roadster build.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bct, Oct 21, 2015.

  1. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    100_5580.JPG
    took a low quality 7\16 bit and made it the same profile as the rivets
    100_5583.JPG
    pilot drilled with a 5\16 to the desired depth then used the rounded bit to make a bucking bar.
    100_5581.JPG
    rivet just sits proud. 100_5586.JPG
    2nd and 3rd attempt. factory dome on left and mine on the right.
    100_5587.JPG
    I cut my first attempt in half with a zip disc and after sanding to clean it up you couldn't tell where the parent metal started or stopped against the rivet. I drilled the hole 1\32 oversize and it filled the hole entirely.
     
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  2. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    100_5588.JPG
    mounted it on the rotisserie and put the front in to check out the wishbone length. 100_5589.JPG 2.25" extensions would have been better but the 2" will do. it is very nice to flip the frame over as much as I need.
     
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  3. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,763

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Wow!!!
    The Rivets look great!

    Where did you bought the 4X Gun ?
    What brand is it ?

    I need one , too :)

    Thanks
    Micky
     
  4. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    Thanks again. I bought the gun used off an ex airplne maintenance student. Never noticed a brand name. It hits smoother and harder than a typical air chisel. Those rivet were set in one or two heatings. Im impressed, looks awesome and seems as strong as it can be.
     
  5. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    100_5598.JPG
    better shot of the bucking bar.
    100_5600.JPG
    bisected rivet.
    100_5591.JPG here are the rivets I spoke about earlier in the thread. kind of a bottle cap look.?
    100_5594.JPG
    more front end stuff done. cut up a spindly A drag link and added 3", temporary. 100_5593.JPG
    butt load of fitting and grinding to get the straight spring into the curved cross member
     
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  6. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,720

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Always wondered why guys don't heat and forge that section of the crossmember out rather than grind away the spring.
    Rear legs and the rivets sure look nice!
     
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  7. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    I thought about straightening the front as it wouldnt have taken much but then the center bolt would have been out. I have an aversion to my torches, gas is too much money. My little bottles empty quick.
     
  8. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Just found & read your thread. You're killing it! Keep up the good work.
     
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  9. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    Thanks , lots of fun just bolting stuff together. A few parts need modification but its more of a tweak here or there than building parts from scratch. I love antique cars with vintage engines and this one is going to be fun.
     
  10. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    Will my 42-48 rear spring work on the 35-36 rear if i bush the large spring eyes? Advvice and qualified opinions please
     
  11. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,763

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    I am not 100 % sure , but i think the
    Spring hanger distance isnt the same , so you have to check
     
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  12. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
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    The hanger difference is 1.75 but the later spring was not under tension as it used a panhard bar. If i swap out the soft bushings for steel and stretch the spring 1.75 for pre-load? Who knows ? Maybe problems with the clearance on the the large eye and 35-36 mount.
     
  13. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    5/16" rivets came in along with the setter. Made a bucking bar . Huge difference between 1/4 &5/16" took 3 heats and some quick juggling to get a decent dome.
     
  14. Bit of deja vu for me on the rivets and spring grinding.
    That's good progress!
     
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  15. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,240

    The37Kid
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    Nice work, lots of build features to follow. Bob
     
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  16. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    Cheers guys. Thanks for following along.

    Opened up a late 40s banjo last night pretty simple and straight forward thanks to the info here. Everything was nice but there was a little water in there. Spider gears are a little pitted but I'm not using them (swaping to 36 , bells, axles ,carrier and spiders). The pinion has a small bit too ,nearly superficial , ...
    how much is fatal.?
     
  17. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    oh ya. There was only one gasket on the left and metal to metal on the right . Is that common.? I havnt measured the gasket chunks from the left bell yet.
    is the a standard for gasket compression to give me starting piont. Minus a thou?
     
  18. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,590

    117harv
    Member

    This thread is full of hot rod and fab goooodness, great job on all of it bct.
     
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  19. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    thanks harv. going to look for a beefier drag link. the biggest one I have is just over 1\2" in diameter. anyone got an idea of the years and models I should look for?
     
  20. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    20170518_231323.jpg 20170518_231336.jpg 20170518_231425.jpg

    Cleaned up some rear bones.
     
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  21. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,240

    The37Kid
    Member

    Nice chassis work, I'll be starting on mine soon. Bob
     
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  22. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,720

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    F100 has a beefy drag link but it is too short.

    My stock 34 drag link is about 1/2" and seems ok we parked on pavement it turns fine and doesn't bend.
     
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  23. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
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    Cutting off some farmer brackets. 20170520_070752.jpg
     
  24. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    20170523_072049.jpg
    See thru drums are great when rusted
    20170523_072114.jpg
    Convenient that the tt was already shortened with an axe.
     
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  25. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    20170528_182415.jpg

    Juice brakes.

    Anyone want the 36 drums and backers?
     
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  26. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    Decided to spend some time on the pedals and take them to the next stage while I wait for some rear shackles
    20170531_233031.jpg
    Not done yet.

    I still need to drill and tap out the pinch bolt hole so I can run it all the way through and then add a castlated nut . The salvaged ford pinch bolt winds up being upside-down with the threads of the blind hole topside. Not ideal.
    20170531_233332.jpg

    I will need to relieve the bottom plate a little bit ,for the m/c plunger arm and weld it on . I will have a pro weld that for me.

    Also cap is needed to cover the end of the shortened clutch shaft and the pin hole drilled. This will happen when I set up my throw out arm and clutch rod .

    FYI here is what I used from the 37 pedals. The mechanical brake tab is ground off .

    20170531_233229.jpg
     
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  27. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    I reconfigured the pedals and adapted them to a more 32 ish style pedal box.

    Remember this wood junk? The shaft center wound up a little lower and further back than the first try with the wood model. 20170531_233322.jpg

    few more shots

    I had to offset the double shear to allow enough room for the bolts 20170531_233052-1.jpg

    *note ...not square

    20170531_233207.jpg

    Bottom side 20170531_233142.jpg

    In the frame

    20170531_234146.jpg

    The brake pedal is an inch plus longer than the clutch but no big deal . The other set has pedals the same length.

    20170531_234212.jpg

    I wonder where I can get a appropriate pin for the clutch boss.?
    Do they come in a rebuild kit? Anyone???
     
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  28. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    found pins at the early ford store .

    looking for the hardware to mount my 36 rear bones . they need to have a proper shoulder and castlated nuts . anyone have a source? thanks for looking.
     
  29. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090

    bct
    Member

    20170603_093957.jpg

    20170603_094028.jpg

    20170603_094322.jpg

    Worked on the x
     
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  30. Clean design. Lovin the rivits!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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