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Technical Rivnuts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dan, Mar 2, 2019.

  1. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,367


    Getting ready to attach brake/fuels to the frame on our 34 (2x3) rectangular tube. Was looking at the rivet nut tool to install threaded fasteners rather than drilling and tapping. Are they a good option/work well?
  2. jetnow1
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,538

    from CT
    1. A-D Truckers

    Fine for that application.
  3. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,005

    from so-cal

    same amount of work to tap threads into the material, Don't go cheap on the inserts, last thing you need is the bolt stuck and the insert spin
    mad mikey, alanp561, pitman and 2 others like this.
  4. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,413

    jimmy six

    They hold the step pan on my Lakes roadster. Love them. I put a little red lock tight on the lip...
    mad mikey, XXL__ and VANDENPLAS like this.
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  5. pirate
    Joined: Jun 29, 2006
    Posts: 464

    from Alabama

    If the material is thick enough to get approximately the bolts diameter I’d say tap. If not a Rivnut or Nutsert properly installed is almost as strong as a tapped hole. Rivnuts and Nutserts come in both steel and aluminum. I have used numerous of both and have not had any problems as long as you don’t overtorque.
    36-3window likes this.
  6. If it's for something that rarely gets disassembled Rivnuts will work great. If it's on something that gets removed regularly not so much; they tend to work loose and spin. Just my experience...
  7. choppedtudor
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 667


    the locktite under the lip is a good idea, I have even had to "re-set" rivnuts that have spun...the ones with ridges around the 'shaft' work best ...
    mad mikey and zzford like this.
  8. Second what's been said. You DO NOT want one to spin as you're tightening the bolt.
    then it spins as you're tying to remove the bolt to reset the inert!
  9. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,549

    dirty old man

    I've been considering using some riv nuts on the top of the bed rails of my OT p'up to fasten the bed toolbox down, as I move the box back once in awhile so as to mount a rack in the holes provided for posts above the bed rails. Been just using PK screws (self tapping "sheet metal" screws) but they have finally all managed to enlarge the holes till they won't tighten up.
    I can reach the underside with vise grips if the riv nuts were to spin, otherwise I wouldn't even consider them. As stated above, if the wall thickness is equal to the bolt dia. or better, then yes, drill & tap. If less than bolt dia. then consider an access hole on other side of rect. tubing to insert a nut and a socket.
    alanp561 likes this.
  10. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 951


    Tack a couple of nuts to a strip of metal and pop rivet it to the underside of the bed rail.
  11. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 935


    I've used Rivnuts a plenty but mainly in steetmetal applications. Preferable to self tapping screws imo. But in thicker material I will always drill and tap because it requires a much larger hole to be drilled for a Rivnut and if working on say a frame the positions required are often difficult to get to to drill so struggling making a larger hole isn't my preference! My buddy has a really handy and powerful Makita angle drive drill which has saved me a lot of grief - dunno why I've never got my own as I'm a bit of a self confessed tool whore!

    zzford likes this.
  12. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 580


    Purchased this kit a few years back to secure some wire looms on my truck. Works great, you just need to ensure you have the correct grip range on the to rivnut to match the material thickness and test one or two pieces before going for the real install. When done right, they don't come loose, at least not with high quality rivnuts.
    deucemac likes this.
  13. I use them in thin metal by the hundreds. Every floor pan I have done in the last 10 years has them. I have a Kar products kit that I have wore some of the heads out on. I bought a tool from either Tractor Supply or Northern Tool without inserts that wasn't much money. When I wear it out, I'll buy another tool. :)
    mad mikey and esrbuilders like this.
  14. wackdaddy
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 160


    I have had good success in sheet metal applications and always use never sieze on the screws. The biggest issue I have experienced is with the cheap ass tools that are available to install them. Especially when using the steel rivnuts. Anyone have any suggestions on a good tool that won't turn into garbage after a few dozen nuts?
    stanlow69 likes this.
  15. flatmotor40
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 534

    from georgia

    I always use rivetnuts .Bought tool off Amazon but other people sell it now Eastwood does now
    mad mikey likes this.
  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,534

    Blue One
    from Alberta

    I’ve used them all over my RPU. Everything from 10/32”- 3/8”.
    If you use a good quality steel rivnut with the spline like ribs and good quality tools to install them in properly sized holes then they do not loosen and spin.
    While I was building my car I went to the extra measure of putting a tack weld to hold the multiple ones I used for my removable floor boards before I painted.

    Tools. Buy good quality tools such as Eclipse made in England.

    Or the larger one for larger inserts.
    I have both.
    That’s a Marson tool
    This is the kit I have.

    The proper style rivnuts ( very important because if you use the smooth ones without the ribs they will invariably loosen and spin)


    One last note on tools. Absolutely do not buy your inserts or tools at Harbor Freight or Princess Auto.
    Good tools are available from most industrial fastener suppliers.
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  17. Another FWIW. The hole diameter needs to be spot on. A little too big because you wiggled the drill bit and you're screwed. No pun intended.
    mad mikey likes this.
  18. I hate rivnuts................
  19. zzford
    Joined: May 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,822


    You can get the inserts from Ebay. MUCH cheaper! I wouldn't even consider any insert that wasn't splined. As with the installation tool, don't cheap out! I have a Marson kit. It works very well.
    deucemac likes this.
  20. greg32
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,038

    from lemont,IL

    Yep. Blue One got it right. If I can't get 5 threads with a tap into the base metal, I use these. But, I only use #10 and 1/4. Nothing larger. If I need a 5/16 or 3/8 I use a weld nut. Never had a problem. If you did, you got aluminum or cheap ass inserts, no serrations, installed them wrong, or over tightened bolt.
  21. pirate
    Joined: Jun 29, 2006
    Posts: 464

    from Alabama

    You can purchase high quality Rivnuts and Nutserts as well as installation tools from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks Aircraft. They will be slightly more expenseive but at least you know what you are getting. Those two companies sell to aircraft maintenance companies as well as home builders of aircraft. Some Rivnut insertion tools are only good for aluminum but if you buy one for steel Rivnuts you can use for either. I would rather do the job right the fist time rather then having to drill out stripped or Rivnuts that don’t expand properly. Inexpensive and cheap are not the same.

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