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Riveting question - sealer or anti-squeak required?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, May 25, 2011.

  1. old_dan
    Joined: Nov 16, 2010
    Posts: 46

    old_dan
    Member

    That's a good tip with the wax. I'll file that into the data bank for the next time.

    I use MEK for clean up. It used to be that I just soaked a rag and wiped down the mess. Now we know better....get some nitrile gloves at Costco. If you get any thiokol on your skin it takes a few days to wear off.
    Dan
     
  2. old_dan
    Joined: Nov 16, 2010
    Posts: 46

    old_dan
    Member

    By the way....don't let the MEK get on any laquer paint...if you still use it. It'll cut right into it.
     
  3. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,374

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks everyone for your help! I'm going to use the nasty grey poly stuff I have, since I have it and that's really what it's application is. Can't remember how long it takes to set, but I bet I'll be working fast.

    Looking forward to finishing this thing!
     
  4. On the poly sealant you guys are using, look for a letter and a number (I.e: A-2, B-2, B-1/2, etc) . This will determine the type and work-life of the product.
    The letter determines the type:
    A= brushcoat style, thinner consistency, not optimal for pressure environments like fuel cells, etc.
    B=pressure environment style, thicker consistency, used in fuel tanks

    The number determines the work-life:
    2= two hour worklife

    Either product will work fine for what you're doing. If your gaps between the panels are big, I would suggest the "B" sealant because the consistency is thicker and won't have a tendency to run out of the gaps when the part is curing. "A" sealant is real easy to work with because it's thinner, but it has a tendency to want to run.

    Usually, the stuff will dry tack-free in about 24 hours.

    Definately read the mix instructions on the tube and make sure you mix it well. You want a consistent color, with no marbling (light and dark, like marble cake). A marbled look means that the sealant and the accelerator did not mix well enough. If you have that condition, just give it a mix by hand in a cup. If you don't remedy that, then the sealant may never kick off and cure completely.
     
  5. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,374

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have the Chem-seal in the 6 oz. injection type tube. It is, indeed, a class B2 sealant. Like peanut butter, but not nearly as much protein and much stinkier! :rolleyes::D

    2-hours isn't too bad. I'm just going to have to be careful, stay organized, and have a plan of attack so I don't waste any.

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/prosealant.php

    [​IMG]
     
  6. I would brush on seam seal at the faying surface. The thing is you want to keep moisture from getting in between the skin and the sub structure.
     
  7. kroozn1
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 144

    kroozn1
    Member

    I am with you... keep it simple. Is this what you were refering to?
    http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html
     

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