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Projects Resurrecting the Mehoopany Coupe - 1936 Ford 5W

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 50DropTop, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,452

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Looking good. After almost a year and a half of sitting in the waiting position, mine is finally moved in to the shop. Disassembly commenced after work yesterday.
     
    brEad likes this.
  2. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Progress is good, doesn’t matter how long it takes to make it!

    Did you ever get the body pulled or is that what started yesterday?
     
  3. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Made a little progress on the passenger side today.

    Before
    D8A82B90-274D-4875-9DC2-8405BE178314.jpeg

    After
    C14DEA9D-C929-4B32-B468-05AD4EDAEC59.jpeg

    The lows aren’t terribly low. I don’t think I can get a sheet of paper under the ruler.
    BDB14CBC-A157-4759-BDF2-AA117366E523.jpeg

    Area the ruler is over which is one of the worst spots.
    2D78D6EE-3BC7-480A-8918-E8C69C1F4FF2.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  4. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,452

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    I need to do a little repair to the driver's side A and B pillar bottoms and replace the rocker first...... then the body comes off. Seems that there was a prior repair that brazed the bottom of the B pillar to the body mount on the frame:rolleyes:.

    You do very nice work. I'll start a thread on mine once it gets going, but don't get your hopes up for that kind of quality, I'm a hack with a couple of welders and a grinder. Fortunately a bigger hack than me has already gon to work on mine, so whatever I do should be better:D.
     
    brEad likes this.
  5. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,413

    Squablow
    Member

    Hadn't seen this build before, superb metalwork on the rust repairs, car is looking great.
     
    50DropTop likes this.
  6. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don’t fool yourself, I’m the same ‘hack’. This is what I do to escape the daily grind. I’m self taught and learn as I go...trial and error my friend. I had someone tell me once that metal was easier to work than wood due to the fact you could repair metal if cut too short/wrong/etc; wood you would have to trash and get another piece. I’m more comfortable with wood (my dad and I were constantly doing remodels on either his house or mine) but metal has started to grow on me.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2018
  7. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Squablow!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,094

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had a 'close installation' problem on a customer's Model A w/SBC cast exhaust manifold. Complaint was steering box leaking oil. He brought the car over, the exhaust manifold was 1/4" from the F100 Gemmer box. Warmed up it leaked out past the seal, as the oil expanded in heat...
    I moved the box slightly, doing some frame surgery...also replaced fluid with some farm lubricant.
     
    Hamtown Al likes this.
  9. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, I figured I would need to keep an eye on it. Also guessing the cooking of paint may be an early indication. Thankfully nothing yet but thank you for the heads up.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  10. RustyDogg
    Joined: Oct 8, 2014
    Posts: 134

    RustyDogg
    Member

    This is a great project. I love that you've restored the underpinnings of the car while keeping the originality of the body. The flatty is an absolute gem!
     
    50DropTop likes this.
  11. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok, so after some shrinking disc sorcery and some VERY LIGHT hammer and dolly work, this is the final result.

    After
    [​IMG]

    Compared to the before I think it turned out pretty good.

    Before
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    rpm56, chryslerfan55, Stogy and 6 others like this.
  12. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Made a little progress on the passenger side today. Hammer, dolly, hammer, dolly, repeat, repeat,repeat....finally shrink with disc.....you’re not done until your nuggets hurt! Here are the results.

    After
    8F87D6F3-8C15-431C-B53F-C2F4B4C2303F.jpeg

    Before
    F215A6AF-820C-40C3-8CA7-6EB0194F1722.jpeg
    6BE5C203-52BA-4359-B390-46C15126E7E6.jpeg
     
  13. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,381

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Nice work she looking good,finally drug mine out and working on it this winter had it sitting too long LOL,Running a 327 muncie MII 59 ford 9inch,Had it all fitted up blew it back apart to paint and body, IMG_4617.JPG IMG_4614.JPG
     
  14. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    She looks solid!! What color is she gonna be?
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  15. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,381

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Mid-nite blue no metalic
     
    50DropTop likes this.
  16. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Had to take a break from the metal finishing....today was seat reconstruction day. Had to build a new toe board and sides. The only original wood is the seat frame back, I had to replace the seat spring bottom (rotten) and back rest spring frame (broken by me). It was kind of a shame as all the wood in this car has been relatively solid. The floor ribs are all going back in.

    19120AA3-83D6-4F69-86E7-5DA27D3328D0.jpeg C67F99C4-4990-4079-9747-86346D7128F6.jpeg 726D37F5-A9F6-4531-BA51-F2FF6274305E.jpeg A5ABBBA6-693A-445D-8765-76D70F80F3CA.jpeg 880E6685-0A9D-407D-98FC-487F76E656DF.jpeg
     
  17. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Made a little more progress today. It was a good day to paint outside so I was able to get the seat pan painted.
    6562415C-705F-46B6-816D-DBB5E07A9020.jpeg
    I also modified the reproduction seat spring wood to replicate the original. Here I’m laying out the holes and recesses from the original onto the repop.
    8B03A0FE-5C47-4F50-AE48-08840168610E.jpeg

    Here’s the final result after the holes and recesses were added. I still need to take my router and remove a little to form the lip where the upholstery is attached. It looks as if this is there to accommodate the thickness of the fabric so it finishes level with the wood.
    825170BA-0E95-445A-A081-F6A171AC7AD1.jpeg
    C83FB8C8-5A38-4432-A3FC-AE4E9EAB5684.jpeg

    The reproduction seat base sides are not as wide as the original, so it only required half circle recesses on the side to clear the nut for the seat adjuster.
     
    brEad, Stogy, chryslerfan55 and 2 others like this.
  18. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thinking of adding a ‘41-‘48 rear track bar setup to the ‘36. Anyone know where I can locate one? Scoured the classifieds and that bidding website with no luck.
    61C9DD4C-982C-4A35-B75D-87D74BAC483F.jpeg E7CB2569-563D-4409-900B-ABF8431DC10C.jpeg
     
    chryslerfan55 and kidcampbell71 like this.
  19. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  20. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,452

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Unless you're running long shackles, I doubt that you would notice whether one is on it or not. A good set of tube shocks - corvette rear shocks fit perfect - using a set of '48 style shock mounts, and a sway bar up front and it'll drive great.

    I love running my 37 thru the twisty curves...... no panhard bar, just stock length short shackles, with tube shocks (vette rears) and a CE sway bar up front.
     
    ibflyin and chryslerfan55 like this.
  21. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, the longer shackles I used to get the rear down is what has me concerned. They’re not excessively long but certainly aren’t as short as the stock shackles.
    I haven’t been able to make much progress this weekend due to a garage accident last Sunday with a angle grinder and a 80 grit flap disc; let’s just say the flap disc wins against skin every time. Anyway, I did quite a bit of searching today relative to panhard bars and I think it would be super simple to fab something using the front (pinion) and side (trumpet) bolts on a banjo and running a panhard over to the left (driver’s) side. I should be ready to re-pull the body here shortly once I metal finish the front section of the roof. Without the body it should be much easier to fab and mount.
    Even searching there wasn’t a ton of information available. As you said, maybe that’s due to good handling with the proper shackles.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  22. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Got a little time out in the garage this weekend. Decided to work on my license plate light, let me know what you guys think. My plan is to install a red bulb and use the reverse light as a 3rd brake light. I know..I know, 3BLs are NOT very traditional, but I feel it’s necessary with all the distracted drivers around here.
    Also, with this solution I did not have to drill any holes, I used the existing holes for the spare tire carrier. The two lower holes will have rubber bumpers to support the bottom of the license plate.
    59149D57-D026-4CD6-B0FD-34F89B40676C.jpeg
    E908842E-3370-4487-BAAE-D7586F755DC3.jpeg
    FB676811-68A0-4DD6-BD1E-640A553EB0B5.jpeg
     
  23. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 650

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    50DropTop likes this.
  24. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Ralph! The local auto parts store didn’t have single filament red bulbs so I may need to order them. Gonna check one more place today. I’m hopeful it looks the same with a red bulb as it does with the clear.
     
  25. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Made a little more progress this weekend. Pulled the body for what should be the last time in order the clean and paint the underside.

    Caught a shot of her outside while turning her around to remove her body.
    97531E5B-8A17-4A8C-AF67-5BB39EE1DE8D.jpeg
    I’m planning to paint the inner fender while I’ve got the body off. Still can’t believe there’s no rust!!

    I feel very fortunate to have a lift, I applaud you guys who remove your bodies with hoists/etc....I applaud you guys as getting everything aligned and supported while maneuvering the chassis ain’t so easy.
    6778F0E2-8A16-449D-A221-7CD803EBFE55.jpeg
    The cleaning begins....not bad just creates a lot of dust.
    E2EBC14E-F732-4177-9D0D-E4B20810C2DD.jpeg
    2C195F8F-CFBD-48BB-AA46-DDE88899ED56.jpeg

    I’ve read on Fordbarn that originally all the undersides were painted body color....however this car is clearly red oxide primer. I can detect some faint black at the edges, but the center is oxide red.
     
    Stogy and kidcampbell71 like this.
  26. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,452

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    What is that forward board attached to?

    Is the rear one just thru the windows?
     
    Stogy likes this.
  27. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 204

    50DropTop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, rear one through the windows right up close to the B pillar. When you raise, the body tips just slightly towards the rear and raises, as seen in the photo, off the front 4x4. It’s essentially balanced on the one board through the rear windows in that photo.
     
  28. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,452

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    I was wondering if I could do it that way... that will make it alot easier than I was thinking. Thanks!!

    Man those floors look nice. Mine have been replaced and still have holes..... I'm thinking by the time I get done patching mine up, I'm just going to spray the bottom side with bedliner.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
  29. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,381

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    I have original seat backs and bottom if anyone needin em IMG_0009_7.jpg
     
    Do it Over and Stogy like this.

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