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Projects Resurrecting the Mehoopany Coupe - 1936 Ford 5W

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 50DropTop, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    I thought I would start a little build thread on my '36 5W Coupe. I purchased this car last October (2016). I wasn't really looking for a project, but I was in the right place at the right time, with the right amount of money....doesn't happen that way often. Anyway, here are the details.

    • '36 5W couple, stored since 1973
    • Roof of storage building (enclosed pole barn with concrete floor) developed a leak right over the '36 roof insert
    • Previous owner eventually corrected leak but not before some damage had been done
    Here's a photo after dragging it out....pretty solid but will need some metal work around the roof insert and cowl vent (known when I purchased) and some cowl and floor pan repair.

    IMG_1468.JPG

    Once I got it home I was able to gut the rotted interior and found one side of the floors needed replacing.
    IMG_1486.JPG IMG_1472.JPG IMG_1473.JPG IMG_1474.JPG IMG_1473.JPG IMG_1488.JPG IMG_1489.JPG IMG_1665.JPG

    So I started on the floor first.
    IMG_1773.JPG IMG_1774.JPG IMG_1775.JPG IMG_1776.JPG IMG_1777.JPG

    Still needed to do the final grinding in these photos...that's been taken care of now.

    Next I tackled the lower passenger door and driver and passenger cowl bottom.
    IMG_1715.JPG IMG_1716.JPG IMG_1719.JPG IMG_1797.JPG IMG_2011.JPG IMG_2009.JPG

    Before moving to the roof, I fixed the cowl vent. Another HAMB member was gracious enough to provide the patch panels for the cowl vent and roof.
    fullsizeoutput_db.jpeg fullsizeoutput_dc.jpeg IMG_1996.JPG IMG_1997.JPG fullsizeoutput_dd.jpeg fullsizeoutput_df.jpeg

    Next I tackled the roof...which I must say was the most intimidating. I still need to do a little hammer and dolly work...but the bulk of the welding is complete. I originally cleco'd this roof in place until I gathered enough courage to tackle the welding.
    IMG_1648.JPG IMG_1649.JPG IMG_0860.JPG IMG_1673.JPG IMG_1674.JPG
     
  2. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    IMG_1951.JPG IMG_1952.JPG IMG_1957.JPG IMG_1958.JPG IMG_1959.JPG IMG_1960.JPG IMG_1961.JPG IMG_1962.JPG

    Once I got most of the structural welding done, I pulled the body off the frame. My plans are to get the frame in pristine condition and try and salvage the patina that's on this original paint coupe. I'm still trying to figure out how I can paint/blend the areas I've had to repair and still maintain the patina of this original paint coupe. I'm open to any ideas.
     
    lewk, RICH B, 40LUV and 9 others like this.
  3. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Before pulling the body, I took a couple of photos with the dropped axle to try and get an idea of the stance. Okie Joe does a heck of a job with axles...he never misses on the stance/drop.
    IMG_1995.JPG

    I also started working on the jewelry that would top the flattie.
    IMG_1926.JPG IMG_1927.JPG IMG_1971.JPG

    Frame before sandblasting and powder coating.
    IMG_2020.JPG IMG_2073.JPG IMG_2092.JPG

    After coming from the powder coater, reassembly begins.
    IMG_2112.JPG IMG_2113.JPG IMG_2135.JPG IMG_2138.JPG IMG_2140.JPG fullsizeoutput_d8.jpeg fullsizeoutput_d9.jpeg IMG_2143.JPG IMG_2144.JPG IMG_2146.JPG IMG_0497.JPG IMG_0956.JPG IMG_2154.JPG IMG_2155.JPG IMG_2156.JPG IMG_2157.JPG IMG_2160.JPG IMG_2161.JPG IMG_2162.JPG IMG_2163.JPG IMG_2165.JPG IMG_2167.JPG

    This is pretty much where I stand now. Things have settled down recently and I'm hoping to get back on it and get the body remounted. I had the original radiator cleaned and tested, only to find that it had a small leak and needed the drain replaced. When trying to remove the petcock, the threaded insert started to spin...so instead of taking it back to the radiator shop who 'tested' it the first time, I decided to order a radiator from Brassworks. The radiator should be here in the next 4 weeks or so....once that happens, I'll be able to drive the chassis around the neighborhood and try to work out any bugs before mounting the body. I've also got a little more work to do between the LH exhaust manifold and the '37 steering box that I installed. There's a little grinding required between the two in order to remove the interference.
    IMG_2164.JPG
     
    catdad49, lewk, akoutlaw and 9 others like this.
  4. nice work , going to be one fun driver !
     
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  5. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 4,534

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great job on the repairs @50DropTop...bringin her back after this extensive dripping and dripping...roofs are important aren't they wow...hey there are many threads on paint matching and that other P word that generates some ups and downs...but they are there.

    A couple...

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/123342981/?q=matching+paint&o=relevance&c

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/attempting-to-blend-50-year-old-paint.1047481/

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/old-patina-painting-technique.876119/

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-old-paint.1022262/

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-old-paint.1022262/page-2#post-11576838

    This is the search to where I got all the above...;)

    I guess to be safe refer to it as paint matching...
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    dwollam and chryslerfan55 like this.
  6. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Thanks Stogy, great info!!
     
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  7. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 968

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    Very nice looking car. Great work on the repairs so far.
     
  8. mrquickwhip
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 418

    mrquickwhip
    Member

    Great score. Well done
     
  9. Great find. Gonna be a beauty. Great work.
     
  10. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 7,319

    brady1929
    Member
    from Mesa, Az

    Congrats, beautiful coupe.
     
  11. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Thanks guys for all the kind words. I'm hoping to have some time over the Christmas holiday to make more progress.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  12. duncan
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 732

    duncan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  13. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Didn't get any time in the garage during the holidays....too damn cold. I did however get to spend a little time out there today...it was in the 50s today.

    Pulled the rear fenders...real happy with just how solid the body is here!

    IMG_1038.JPG IMG_1039.JPG
     
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  14. Hamtown Al
    Joined: Jan 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,682

    Hamtown Al
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    Just a suggestion but have you thought of adding a thick washer or two to the motor mount to get the needed clearance between the manifold and header? Simple if it works.
    Good luck. Great car and great work thus far.
    Keep workin'
    Al
     
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  15. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 3,847

    ss34coupe
    Member

    Nice work, and I like that you have kept the wide fives!
     
  16. edcodesign
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,659

    edcodesign
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work on a cool car !
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  17. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    I have not...I think you may be onto something here!!
     
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  18. tub1
    Joined: May 29, 2010
    Posts: 285

    tub1
    Member
    from tasmania

    nice job your doing on a nice car please tell me about the m/cyl assy looksgreat
     
  19. eicke
    Joined: Jul 30, 2012
    Posts: 29

    eicke
    Member

    OT........Mehoopany? There only one place in this world called Mehoopany. What's the connection?
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  20. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Best I can tell, that's where the car originated. There's a service tag on the door pillar from Henning's Garage in Mehoopany, PA. I found a Henning in PA who said the service station was owned by his father. I found the car in NC which is where it's been since the 60's. The odometer only showed 30,000 miles or so.

    Here's a photo of the service tag, I plan to leave it intact.

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  21. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    M/C and brake setup is by Richard Lacey, Early V8 Garage, out of California. It's a great system, easy to install with Richard's included instructions. I highly recommend it.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  22. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Anyone happen to know the OD and ID to sit on top of the biscuit, under the motor mount?

    I can get some punches from work and experiment with thickness to find the right clearance.
     
    31ford39 likes this.
  23. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 3,132

    Mart
    Member

    The ID is to clear 7/16" and the OD is whatever you want to make it. I don't have one in front of me but I'd guess about 1-3/4". You can't go too thick or the nut won't go on far enough. You could compensate by skimming the bolt head down a bit if you have access to a lathe. You could also shim the rear mounts up a bit. Every little bit will help.

    Can I add that the condition of those rear wheelwells is remarkable. I'm Jealous.

    Mart.
     
  24. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Al, fabbed these spacers up from .313 stainless. Going to add them under the front mount and see what the clearance is like. I'm confident this is going to work...thanks for the suggestion.
    IMG_1053.JPG
     
    catdad49 likes this.
  25. Hamtown Al
    Joined: Jan 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,682

    Hamtown Al
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Virginia HAMB(ers)

    ^^ I'm hoping it works for you and don't forget, as someone else suggested, the same strategy could be used to raise the rear of the transmission slightly.

    Simple is good... that is what I am most equipped to do!:):D
     
  26. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Spacers worked. Raised the front of the engine and gained the necessary clearance for the '37 steering box.
    IMG_3009.JPG IMG_3008.JPG IMG_3007.JPG
     
  27. Vanness
    Joined: Aug 5, 2017
    Posts: 197

    Vanness
    Member

    Mehoopany is not far from me. Not
    Much there. Cool sticker though. Good fishing on the river :)
     
  28. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,881

    Kan Kustom
    Member

  29. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 3,132

    Mart
    Member

    Glad the spacers worked. I'm pretty sure the earlier manifolds hugged the block a bit tighter, could have been an alternative solution.

    Mart.
     
  30. 50DropTop
    Joined: May 6, 2004
    Posts: 64

    50DropTop
    Member

    Finally got a little time to work on the coupe, managed to get one fender bolted up (loosely) along with the grill. I ended up going with a Brassworks radiator due to multiple leaks on the original. The quote to recore was almost as much as the new one; figured I was better off new. Anyway, needed to get the front end on to determine where to drill the holes in the radiator mounting tabs...they're not pre-drilled (or slotted as original) from Brassworks. I also wanted to get a peek at how the front end was going to sit....I think I'm going to like it. The last picture shows some of the original patina on the fenders....plan is to keep it that way.

    IMG_3020.JPG IMG_3022.JPG IMG_3023.JPG
     

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