I did some searching, but didn't find anything on replacing an fe intake manifold. My question is, how hard is it to replace the intake manifold on a 352fe? I've replaced intakes before, but someone told me that the pushrods go down through the intake on fe engines. Is this a very easy swap for a amatuer mechanic? I want to do the work myself, just want to know what I'm getting into before I start. I ordered a Edelbrock proformer manifold to get rid of the heavy cast iron one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Phil
You'll probably have to remove the rocker shafts to remove the pushrods. Take note of which bolts go where. One bolt on each side has a narrower shaft to allow oil to feed the rocker shafts. It must go back in the same position or you won't get oil to the rockers. Get yourself a manual. It's not a difficult job, just a couple things you need to be aware of. The hoist is a good idea too. Have fun.
i worked in a ford garage way back when. we took the hood off then used the engine hoist. lots of fun.
I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago...definitely a good idea to use an engine hoist on the stock intake if your doing it yourself! A note about the rocker shaft bolts...This was the first time that my engine has been apart since it left the factory...the driver's side had the correct bolt in the second hole from the front...the passenger side side all had the short ones and noene were narrowed for the oil passage! Must have been assembled this way at the engine plant...and the shaft showed no sing of wear! Had to take a trip to the local salvage yard to get one.
Phil, It is easy to do if you pay attention to what you are doing. They have shaft mounted rockers so it makes it easy to loosen the shafts and get the push rods out. Pull the Valve Covers and all associated wiring/throttle linkage/ ect that comes off the intake. With the Valve covers off you will see where the push rods go through the intake. Loosen the bolts that hold down the rocker shaft a little at a time to keep from warping it. All the pressure from your valve springs are on those bolts. Keep the bolts in the same holes they came out of because if I remember right, there are two different lengths used because of the oiling to the rocker shaft. If you have adjustable rockers make sure you don't mess with the adjusters unless you know how to adjust your valves. Most FE's had non adjustable rockers. Just torque the shafts and go. Once you have the rocker shafts loose, just pull them up and back far enough to let your push rods come out. No need to pull them out of the car unless you plan on cleaning them or see any problems. You just want to loosen them enough to move them and get the pushrods out. Pull your pushrods and keep them in order. Pull your intake manifold off with the help of a friend, or you may end up dropping it on a fender. It is pretty heavy. I pulled mine many times by myself, and it can be done, but having a friend there to help lift may save you some body work LOL. With the intake off take a look at your lifters and you will see where the push rods sit in the center of the lifter in a small cup. You will have to get the push rods back into those cups with the new intake on. Some of them will be hard to see. Swap out your intake then put your push rods back in the same spot they came out making sure they go down into the lifter cups. If you were careful with the shafts, you will be able to put them back on while lining up the push rods. Tighten them down a little at a time to keep even pressure on the shaft. Turn over the engine at least two complete revolutions to make sure all of your rockers are moving and none of your push rods are out of place or loose. If everything is in order, put your valve covers back on, change your oil, then fire her up. -Dave
One other hint to eliminate oil leaks at front and rear of the manifold: pitch the cork gaskets for the ends and just apply a heavy bead of silicone where the intake meets up with the block. Let the silicone cure for about 20 minutes/half-hour before pressing the manifold in place. Make sure there's sealant applied to where the head/manifold meet up, too.
Back when I was younger and thinner, I tried to lift one off an engine with my stomach on the fender but my feet came off the ground instead.
Weighs approx 72 lbs, 2 guys can do it easily. Use silicone on the ends, not the cork gaskets, & slip a new 5/8 bypass hose on before setting it all the way down
Thanks for all advice guys. It's like all I have to do is take my time and pay attention and have someone help me take off the old one.
Exactly. If you got a stocker you don't even have to adjust valve lash as they had no adjustment. The intake weighs about as much as a head. I usually get Mrs. beaner to pull 'em when I need one off.
Its all stock, so y'all answered another question of mine, which was if I was going to have to readjust the valves or not. The more I listen to the reponses, its sounds like its not that bad of a job.
The short hose connecting the water pump to the manifold can be a bitch. Cut it out and install the manifold then that "$*$@!!^%$^%" little hose. Two ways to do it. The best and easiest is to slide a section of hose over the water pump end all the way on until it hits the water pump then carefully cut if off so it just clears the pipe coming out of the manifold or a tiny bit longer. Then slide the hose back towards the intake and balance out the difference so it is on the two pipes the same amount and install new clamps. Or the way that takes some practice .... cut a length of hose just shorter than the distance between the manifold and the water pump then take that new section and fold it in half so it's like a giant "U" shape. Quickly before your fingers run out of strenght set the open ends in between the two stubby sections of pipe coming out of the manifold and water pump and let go... If you are lucky the hose will spring back with one end on the manifold and the other on the water pump end then just wiggle it around to balance it out... BUT more times than you can count that little folded up hose with take off like a jato bottle launched C-130 and bounce off the ceiling and end up somewhere like the "Bermuda triangle" in your engine compartment where all your dropped wrenches and bolts go to disappear forever. Either search for that little section of hose for hours or save yourself some trouble and cut a new piece and try again until it does pop into place.
I just did an FE top end not too long ago(About 3 weeks or so). 1: Remove the valve covers,then start backing the rocker bolts out a little at a time until the are all totally backed out,but do not remove them from the rocker,then pull the rocker assembly off with the bolts still in the rocker bolt holes. This saves you from putting the bolts back in the wrong bolt holes. Make sure you remember which rocker assemble goes to which head(Easy way is to take a length of masking top and mark it with Driver or passenger). Then remove all the push rods,and make sure you keep them in order due to wear from cam lobes(This is very important) 2: Remove the carb then use a boxcutter ot putty knife to work away the seal between the motor and intake manifold. 3: Use an intake mounted motor lift plate to remove the intake,or call up two buddies to help you pull it off because it will still be attached pretty well and it's a heavy son of a bitch. 4: Replace with an Edelbrock intake( Edelbrock part number 2105),and Edelbrock Torx head bolt set. Alsu,you want to use Printoseal intake gaskets,because they are the ones recommended for a complete seal. If you need bolt sequence and torque specs,I have them for the 352.
Don't forget to wiggle the pushrods before pulling them out, so you don't pull a few lifters out with 'em. Don't want to mix up the lifters!
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