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Replaceing Cam Gear on a 235

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chevelle bob, Nov 12, 2013.

  1. chevelle bob
    Joined: Apr 1, 2010
    Posts: 209

    chevelle bob
    Member
    from Linton

    So I am going to reuse my cam and wehn I took it out yesterday I noticed a couple teeth on the fibre gear are in bad shape. I am going to replace it with an aluminum gear. Do I have to replace the crank gear at the same time? I am not removing the crank and did not know if it is possible to change the gear on it with the crank in the engine or if I could keep the stock steel one on it and just add the aluminum cam gear.

    Thanks,
     
  2. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    The stock cam gear is fiber, no good, find an aluminum one. A small puller will take the crank gear off easily. They come as a set, change them both.
     
  3. chevelle bob
    Joined: Apr 1, 2010
    Posts: 209

    chevelle bob
    Member
    from Linton

    Thanks, HOw do I install the crank gear with the crank still in the block? The end of the crank is not threaded to use an installer and I don't want to have to take the crank out.
     
  4. happy hoppy
    Joined: Apr 23, 2001
    Posts: 2,328

    happy hoppy
    Member

    My neighbor, a retired GM mechanic, told me in the dealership he worked in they used to drill and tap the crank to install the gear.
     

  5. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,207

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    How do I install the crank gear with the crank still in the block?
    After pulling the original, dress the shaft to clean any burrs, same with woodie key. Lightly coat shaft w/ anti-seize. Heat gear. Using pipe slightly larger than snout, drive it on.
    Be sure the thrust plate under the cam isn't damaged when replacing the gear. Set cam end play tight - under .002.
     
  6. GOSFAST
    Joined: Jul 4, 2006
    Posts: 254

    GOSFAST
    Member

    Just remember the aluminum gear (Cloyes #2514) cannot be pressed on the cam, it must be heated and installed by hand. It's been this way forever.

    The crank gear (Cloyes #2537) can stay if it's OK, it's the same part number regardless of the cam gear material.

    (Add) If I recall correctly there is a small shim (spacer) between the cam gear and the cam, slightly thicker than the thrust plate which "sets" the cam end-play?? If this is the case, don't "lose" it, they use to be stuck on the cams and not easily noticable.

    Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

    P.S. At one point in time we had a few customers racing the 230" and 250" 6 cyl Chevs with the aluminum gear also, but we would drill and tap the cam for a bolt and "very thin" washer. Worked well back then. You just don't have much room between the cam snout and the timing covers!
     
  7. chevelle bob
    Joined: Apr 1, 2010
    Posts: 209

    chevelle bob
    Member
    from Linton

    Thanks for your help.


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