I'm just wondering what you guys think is the best way to fill the holes in body panels after you remove moldings? What I'm working with is a 64 Cyclone that has had Caliente moldings added at some point. I've done a few searches here and I'm thinking I need to go ahead and get a light duty (Hobart Handler 140 or a Lincoln 140) MIG welder. Then patiently weld the holes up. Maybe use some small circular sheet metal punch outs and hold them in place with a magnet on the back side...then start spotting??? This will be the first time I've done anything like this. Any suggestions?
You can also take a brass hammer and hold on the backside of the smaller holes, the weld wont stick to it.
If the hole is kinda big you can find a nail with a head that's the right diameter, hold it in place and weld it in. Cut the pointy thing off (is there a name for it?), grid smooth and you're good to go.
as mentioned, this has been brought up a few times but, the best way is undoubtably a mig small holes will just weld up.....larger ones you can use brass or copper backing, as said wont stick. if they are too big make a plug i like .023 wire many say they like gas and sticks for that job , good for them, i like a mig, lol skull
Yeah someone told me there had been a thread here recently but I couldn't find it.....he told me about the nail thing. Thank goodness there weren't that many holes drilled.
old piece of 3/4" copper pipe smashed flat works great as a backer as it allows you to reach into quarter panels and still have decent position to weld from.
I didn't see the other threads about this, so I'll just answer on this one... I dont like the copper backing. Its quick, and its easy, but the copper acts as a heatsink. Which makes it a crapy weld. You can weld up the holes with a Mig and if they are too big to weld shut, make a sheetmetal patch. ( square shapes seem to work best, and give less heatshrink problems than round ones...) For holes that you can get to on both sides I like to use a O/A torch, And hammerweld the repair. ( specially bulletholes, etc...) But that takes a lot more practice... Edit. A magnet is bad news too. The magnet affects the spark of a Mig or a Tig. ( if electricity and magnetism didnt "talk" to eachother, your altinator wouldn't work either...) Its handy to quickly tack something in place. Then get it away from the weld, and do all the finish welding... Or use maskingtape to hold the patch in place. ( try to get it out of the way before it catches fire, because it smells and leaves a mess )
You have the right idea, its easy and it works, plus when your done no one know or cares how it was welded up. Good luck
if you need a copper backing to weld up a trim hole you need to practice more if you are going to use a nail... WTF are you thinking? do people actually do this? who sells sheetmetal plugs these days? I got some from Covell a few years back. I also got a bunch from a fab shop near me. you can make your own with a roper whitney sheetmetal punch, but they have a point to them that needs to be hammered down use a step drill to open the hole to fit the plugs you have if you are not using a plug or have a plug the same size as the hole use a file to clean out the opening. ...seems like I just typed this same answer yesterday.
Yeah I don't think a nail sounds like the best plan. I'm worried about warpage so I figured welding in a small piece would be less heat than welding the holes up. Sorry about the duplicate post.....but this forum is pretty active. I have spent alot of time doing searches and reading threads.
Fixing a bullethole on Post #13 & 14 of this Thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195622&highlight=rust+repair
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