Disconnecting the battery is not a bad idea, though there should not be overly much to accidently short out when pulling heads. If its a forum-friendly standard points ignition setup, it will be pretty robust towards the odd zap (fancy 'puter ignitions less so). Normally when you shut the engine down the bore has a very light film of oil on it (very, very light). It will keep rust at bay for a few days (perhaps weeks if it is not humid) while you get the head machined. If you slop coolant into the bore, the chances of getting some rust in the bore increases. More than likely, it will be some light flash rust that you can wipe off. Not good, but again not the end of the world (this is a run-of-the-mill SBF, not a high precision, 20,000rpm NASA candidate). It's easy to get rid of the water though - the WD in WD40 stands for Water Dispersant. The WD40 (aka mechanic-in-a-can) will make the slopped coolant bead off the cylinder wall, and you can mop it out better. A spray of WD40 (with or without the little red squirty tube) will get into the crevices (like the top of the piston against the cylinder wall) that an oily rag won't. There are jobs on the car that you can afford to be clueless (like I am most days ) like unbolting heads, changing gaskets, some where you need to be semi-smart (setting valve clearances, ignition timing) and some that require a degree in rocket science (machining and rebuilding a cylinder head). The cool part is that all those level of knowledge are on the HAMB. If you get stuck, take a few photos and repost here. If you get badly stuck, reach out and I suspect a local HAMBER will drop round to get you back on track. Millions of cylinder heads have been changed out at home - it is a relatively forgiving job. Have fun with it - having fun is half the fun Cheers, Harv
Keep in mind your heads may not be repairable (or should I say "not worth the money to fix"). That is an old engine and there is a real possibility the valves have been sunk deep into the castings due to multiple previous valve jobs. If you just stroll into a shop while not being fully informed of the potential issues, drop the heads on the bench and say "fix them", they may sell you a whole bunch of valves, a valve job, a guide job, fresh springs, hardened exhaust seats, resurface etc This could get expensive VERY quickly. A friend has a beautiful '66 Fastback Shelby clone and the heads we took of it were complete garbage. He ended up buying some cast iron World heads. Here is something to think about ... I had an old VW Bug based dune buggy that had one burned exhaust valve. I simply purchased one single valve, dropped it in (I have a valve spring compressing tool), lapped it in with some lapping compound and a cheap tool, then reassembled the engine. Ran great.
Thank you for putting the head job in perspective Harv. Never having done all these things before, it is hard to distinguish what will be simple from what will be 'rocket science'. Likewise, borntoloze, never having done any of this before, I don't know cheap from expensive yet. A valve job or new heads - which costs more ? No idea. Plus being an old 289, can I even get new heads for it ? No idea. Can you guys even remember back this far when it was like landing on a new planet and everything is new to you ? I guess you can because your advice appears to be just what I need. Thank you very much gentlemen.
Car apparently runs well but there is an issue that bothers you. I say (just my opinion) either run it as it is or pull that one head and, if you are correct about there being a burned exhaust valve ... just change that one valve (if you can lap it in and get a decent seal). Is there any possibility that one exhaust valve is adjusted too tight, causing it not to close fully? I am unfamiliar with Ford engines. I think I'd be spending some time diagnosing before tearing into it.
It seems to be the general consensus here that as long as I am pulling one head, do them both. Indeed some suggest going deeper and check everything (since it is open anyway). I just want to keep my motor as it should be. If something is definitely not right, I want, no need to get it fixed. I don't know what lapping is ? I have a friend who is a mechanic. He found the problem with #4 and advised taking off the head. He did a compression test too. Thing is, he wants to get at it. I don't know if it is for the love of working on an old Ford or for the comerradery or money but he has been at me to open it up since last Fall. If he does it, I don't learn half as much or at least I don't remember half as much. I want to do it myself but still, the right way. Anyway, if the exhaust valve is adjusted too tight, he would know better than I. I am learning the importance of diagnosing first but wouldn't it have to be opened up to get at the exhaust valve anyway ? Or is that just removing the head cover ?
IF it's too tight, it can be fixed with removing the valve cover and adjusting. Since it's been running a bit with the miss (assumption) the valve and seat are probably no longer seating properly. This will require removing the head. At that point, inspect the seat and valve. repair or replace as needed. If it is a small mismatch, lapping can be done. www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVp04atZoc0 You can lap just one or all on that head, or both heads. Good to replace the oil seals too. They are usually included in a head gasket set. Next up is checking and perhaps repairing the guide clearance. By this time, you are getting into the area where a set of rebuilt heads are often cheaper than rebuilding your originals. Price out a local rebuild including new valves, seat grinding and guide repair. Compare this to a set of rebuilt heads. Ford has used many different head variations over the years, and you need to ID what you have and what is available as replacements. Research this here and elsewhere online. https://www.diyford.com/ford-cylinder-heads-valvetrain-interchange-small-block/
When you actually drain the coolant, roll the car out in the driveway and jack the rear end up as high as you can. That will make the radiator the lowest point. After draining, if you can, start your disassembly there. Then no matter what happens when you lift the head off, the residue will be out there and can be blown away with a leaf blower later. Then after the car sits and drips and you even point the leaf blower at it, you roll it back in the garage. That way you won't be dealing witha wet floor when you drain the oil or maybe have to disconnect the exhaust. Always hated wet floors when working on a car. If you have a nice driveway, get a little diesel fuel in a spray bottle and spray it on any oil or grease spots and they will magically disappear in a few days. May have to spray it a second time, but one usually works for me. Been here 40 years and lots of things have been leaked on my driveway. Not one spot anywhere to be found.......... Used to use Kerosene till it got to be $4 a gallon.
New heads are available for the SBF from multiple companies. The heads will fit all Windsor small blocks from 221 to 351 cubic inches. 289 & 302 used 7/16" head bolts, 351 used 1/2". Most replacement performance heads are drilled 1/2" and require step down washers to use on 289/302 motors. Combustion chamber size is also important, as a replacement head may differ, and may result in compression so low the engine has no power or so high it requires special fuel. Those heads will probably also have screw in rocker studs and may require valve train upgrades. The machine shop can steer you in the right direction for a replacement head should the need arise.
Boy there is certainly everything one needs to know here. I am overwhelmed with detail. Thank you everyone. I am beginning to suspect that this must be an expensive operation. My friend is so anxious to get at it that I hadn't given any thought to the expense until now. If this is really costly, I may have to save a bit before I tackle it. I better check and see exactly what heads I have and price them out for replacements and try to find a ballpark figure for repairs. I know I was surprised when I had my transmission overhauled - and it still leaks !
A gallon of coolant, 5 quarts of oil and a filter, a "head set" gasket set which should include gaskets for the intake and exhaust, valve covers, thermostat and cylinder heads along with the valve seals. That's minimum, then any tools you don't have or can borrow, shop towels and spray cleaner, sealant for bolts that go into water jackets, RTV for the intake gaskets (may be in gasket set), any hardware that is too worn to reuse. The head costs depend on condition and can range from a tube of valve compound (Under 10 bucks) to a pair of trick aftermarket aluminum heads and related components (big bucks). This does not account for stuff you decide to replace at the same time (belts, hoses, thermostat, fuel filter, paint, etc.).
You've mentioned your mechanic friend. Why not persuade him to tutor you through this exercise. You do the work under his watchful eye. Comraderie and a few beers may be all he wants to see you through.
Actually I am having difficulty keeping him off it. I'm hoping he will watch and guide but I'll have to see how it goes. I am fortunate just to have him nearby. I will contact the shop (Dean) and see how long the heads might take at this, the busy time of year. If it takes too long, I'll wait until Fall. If it's just a few weeks, I'll take them off now. I won't take the rod out until they sweep the salt off the roads anyway and last year that was April 22. Thank you everyone.
I forgot to add that what makes 'a guiding hand' or supervision as I work so difficult is this stupid Covid 19 virus and the restrictions that go with it. What drew me into this pastime was the opportunity to learn something new, the chance to actually build a hot rod, something to cruise to diners in neighbouring villages in and last but not least, the opportunity to turn a wrench with guys on a hot summer day. I really miss that aspect of this hobby but I guess everyone does. I guess on the bright side, I can say I did it if it all turns out ( and they'll know I did it if it doesn't ! )
Make sure to keep coolant away from pets.Keep it in covered containers and flush any that gets on the ground. Good luck.
To be truthful, i didnt read through this whole thread. But what ive learned over time. Take pics as you go, since your not real familiar with the project, so you can put it back together. And keep pulling nuts and bolts, sooner or later the heads will be able to be pulled. Take your time. And on the reassemble process, torque specs are for a reason. Use em. Along with torque sequence. Ask specific questions if need be, dont guess or assume. Good luck.
Thank you both. I have learned from people here to keep the floor clear of fluids for the sake of critters. And I will take photos as I go. I only took a photo when finished removing the intake manifold last time but I'll take more this time, just in case. Always great advice found here.
Be mindful of the WYIT monster (while you're in there!) example............have all the valves redone(the back-cut hi-po ones are just a LITTLE more)........mill the heads to bump up the compression=more power.....maybe some hi-lift ROLLER rockers......gonna need some tall(and chromed) valve covers....replace the timing chain and gears or better yet a GEAR DRIVE....may as well do a little port clean up on those heads (especially the exhaust ports!).....great time to replace the distributor with a shiny/trick one.....prolly need to "improve" the advance curve in it too........new set of shine pulleys and a graduated balancer with engraved timing marks. That WYIT monster has sharp teeth and loves the taste of $$$ 6sally6 PS.........I'm really liking that idea of using a shop vac to suck out residual water out of the engine before removing the heads
OK 6sally6, you are to blame for this one. Warren already warned me about getting 'in there' and doing more than planned. A very wise man to whom I listen. I had never heard of the 'WYIT monster' by name but had met with it until Warren set me straight. I am aware that I might need (emphasis on need) a new timing chain (While I'm In There) and a graduated balancer with engraved timing marks would be nice but no ! I listen to Warren and I learn so I say "NO !" to all those trick and shiny parts. I'll get what I 'need' and slay that monster. You cannot tempt me with glam. Well, OK, you got me with the shine pulleys - but I'll ask for them for Christmas ! hahaha!
Nothing wrong with putting a fresh timing chain on the engine if you have no idea who long the present one has been in there (or at least take off the timing cover and check for slop in the existing chain). Timing chains can stretch over time then jump teeth or simply cause erratic timing if they are too loose. Replace a timing chain with a gear drive? I would NEVER for a street car. Expensive, noisy (sounds like a bad alternator bearing) and pointless for a street driver.
Yup. I will check the timing chain. I learned here that it is well worth at least a check. And no, I will not consider a gear drive. I just didn't know the different purpose of a gear drive (for racing). Thank you borntoloze. I wonder if there are any special engine components I should consider if my intent is to cruise, not race ? ha ha ha ! The good news is that my mechanic friend phoned and said he'd like to come out tomorrow and take the heads off together. A bit of a concern to meet with people during a pandemic but we will just have to be careful I guess. I did all the prep work today and pulled the welding table over beside the rod. Laid out all the tools necessary and disconnected all the cables and lines and hoses and wires. Removed a few parts including the headers. Just the intake manifold, fuel lines and headers to deal with in the morning. Maybe I can get the manifold off before he arrives. Should have the heads in the shop by Monday afternoon. Cool. Thank you everyone. The job has hardly begun and I have already learned a lot about the heads. You have all been most kind. Much appreciated. What a wonderful site.
No need to pull the cover to check for slack, Ford even made it easy for ya Pull the cap, watch the rotor and you manually move the crank , the mark it(crank) and roll it back till rotor moves again. Helps to be near number 1 on the firing order to watch the balancer marks though, but a little match that says a “mark moved xxx on a xxx diameter “ circle, will yield degrees of the circle.
Thank you budget36. A good tip that I had forgotten. I'll write this down. I keep notes on all the things worth doing to do a good job right.
HOORAY ! Heads are off ! It was a learning experience and all went well. We even got both drain cocks open without too much difficulty. Easy to get at. Then we used an impact wrench to undo the head bolts. They were on tight. First time I used my impact wrench. Makes a big difference. Cool. Found one burnt valve and most rocker arms were a little worn. Bench is a mess but I bagged and labeled everything. Taking the heads in tomorrow noon and am told Dean plans to get right at them. What a nice guy. Oh and Bill tells me that my pistons are 5 over and I thought they'd be flat on top but they aren't. So much to learn. I removed the headers and and everything necessary but that 'Right Stuff' gasket seal sure holds. We both had trouble lifting off the manifold at the back. That seal just wouldn't let go. Good stuff. Anyway, thank you everyone. You all gave me a much better understanding of what was ahead. I was very fortunate that Bill wanted to show me how (but I didn't want to count on that). If he hadn't shown up, I was going to try it alone ... and I'd probably still be out the reefing on a ratchet if he hadn't come. Took about an hour and a half once I had all the other stuff out of the way & Bill showed up. What a great sensation to dig down into an engine and see how things work. Thank you again everyone for all the tips and tricks and advice. And I should add that Bill Villnef is the gentleman who I worked on it with (assisted would be more accurate) but I learned a lot. What a great day. If anyone ever needs some work done, Bill sure seems at home with his hands in a block.
That is really great to see your diving in. Your enthusiasm is truly kick ass. It makes me rethink how I handled a situation the other day. Anyway, you put a smile on my face when I read your latest post.
That is so generously kind. Thank you very much indeed. But I couldn't do half of what I do without the support I find here. At least I couldn't do it the right way. Thank you everyone who offered assistance & support.
I'd suggest you ask for a quote on the work needed (on those heads) as things can very quickly add up ($ wise). As I mentioned before, you might be fine just replacing the single burned valve (and throwing on new valve seals too). Good luck.
There are a couple shows on the Motortrend network that you might enjoy watching as they often explain some of the basic things and you can see them actually getting dirt under their fingernails. Roadkill Garage and Engine Masters are the two I am talking about. Don't know if you have access to that in Canada, but it may be accessable through online streaming if you can't get it with normal cable/satellite hookup.
Around my area a complete rebuild of heads, which includes new guides, hardened seats, all new stainless valves, new springs, and a valve job runs me $500 for common heads like SBF and SBC. A little more for some others, where parts might be higher. I've heard of people paying $600 for the same in some shops, so depends on who does it. I would suspect if your engine shows signs of a previous rebuild, that hopefully they upgraded the heads to hardened seats, and better valves; but this isn't always the case. Some cut corners, and that ends up with the head work not lasting long on unleaded gasoline these days.
Hay Cuddles Two, I like doing head gaskets, nice straight forward job well except for the water and oil going everywhere , mark your distributor position I use a sharpie where the shaft of it meets the manifold, keep the push rods in the same order, keep the painted head studs outside the rocker cover, if there is rust on the shaft of the head studs replace them (very minor surface rust is ok. Just when it starts to pit them), clean every thing like you gona eat off it, I always clean the block and head surface with s scraper and sand paper (don't let crap drop into the block) I then spray brake clean on the head and block surface before putting back together, keep your fingers off the head and block surface when putting back together and read the manual. Good luck keep us posted Cheers Chris
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