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Technical Removing door hinges,1939 chevy

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by banditomerc, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. banditomerc
    Joined: Dec 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,095

    banditomerc
    Member

    I need to replace hinges on 1939 2door sedan..so I have put a socket on some of the hinge bolts and they are soft...the socket slips off...I know I am going to end up extracting them like a dentist..
    Does anyone here have any tips on best way to attack this job....bolts have never been of car.....

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  2. Heat is your friend & make sure you use a six point socket. HRP
     
    flatford39 and 39 Aaron NZ like this.
  3. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,418

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    2X what HRP suggests or even a slightly under metric socket.
     
  4. 39 Aaron NZ
    Joined: Jan 2, 2017
    Posts: 80

    39 Aaron NZ
    Member

    Try getting WD-40 on the threads from inside the pillar and inside the door, a couple of times and a day before you next give it a go.
    It's never a fun game as the bolt heads only seam to be half height...
    Good luck.
    Cheers Aaron.
     
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  5. Had someone ask to buy hinges off a parts car I have.

    I laughed at them, for this specific reason.

    With the cars that use screws I see them take a bit and use an air hammer and rotate the bit with a wrench, I wonder if there's some way to apply that principle here? Hit the head with a flat bit to get some vibration through it before trying to turn it?
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  6. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,628

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    upload_2018-10-2_20-12-41.png
    upload_2018-10-2_20-13-6.png

    If oil and heat don't work, I'd suggest finding centres and drill them out before cutting the bolt heads off. I had to do this on my 46 Olds. I then carefully removed the old bolts and re-tapped the threads. At this time I rebushed the hinges
     
  7. Blade58
    Joined: Mar 5, 2012
    Posts: 301

    Blade58
    Member
    from apopka ,Fl

    Spray the crap out of it with KROIL that stuff really works,you may have to let soak for awhile this stuff works on marine applications and you know corrosion is serious on marine engines, use a brass punch and hammer strike the head of the screw several times , heat will also help you too
     
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  8. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 863

    vtx1800
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Heat.......maybe more than once and what ever your favorite lubricant is. I remember what a pain it was to get those bolts out of the hinges on a door I bought (I should have bought the whole darn car) on a 37 Chevy Coupe. If you have rounded the corners I'd suggest welding a real nut on what ever was left, and then use a rattle gun, vibration is your friend. The Studebaker had the same issues with the hinges (except phillips head) and heat, lubrication and an air chisel with the appropriate bit was the solution, drilling them out would be my LAST resort.
     
  9. banditomerc
    Joined: Dec 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,095

    banditomerc
    Member

    Thanks for all the replies what I have noticed is that those hinge bolt head are very shallow hardly any meat to grab with a socket or wrench so I think what I'm going to try as go ahead and weld beefier nut to the top of the bolt I just got to do it 6 times on the driver's door. I'd rather do that than hassle with drilling them out and all that other drama that goes with taking out these things

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  10. banditomerc
    Joined: Dec 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,095

    banditomerc
    Member

    ... oh yeah one other thing well I have everybody's attention on the passenger door the hinges seem nice and tight but the door is sagging what's a good fix for that I've always used the bottle jack under the door and just pushed up on the edge of the door and that's done in the past is there another way of going about fixing that sagging door

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  11. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 803

    24riverview
    Member

    If you haven't rounded them all off yet take a 6 point socket (1/2 isn't it) and take off all of bevel they all seem to have in the opening, lathe would work best but careful grinding should accomplish the same thing.

    Not much help really without being able to tell you how but a body man I was dealing with in the late 70's cured the same problem in my sedan by shimming the body at it's mounting points. Seems like we added a shim in one spot, a extra rubber pad probably, I just remember being amazed at the difference it made.
     
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  12. Blade58
    Joined: Mar 5, 2012
    Posts: 301

    Blade58
    Member
    from apopka ,Fl

    Yes body mounts especially at the cowl
     
  13. 29moonshine
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,284

    29moonshine
    Member

    50/50 acetone and trans fluid . 3xaday for I day then tighten the bolt a little then it should back out
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  14. 37 caddy
    Joined: Mar 4, 2010
    Posts: 275

    37 caddy
    Member
    from PEI Canada

    Be careful of those bolts,they are a fine thread and have a shallow head for a reason,the thicker ones wont let the door close,they bind the hinge.if you snap the heads off,they still wont come out,the bolts stick out inside the cavity and wont let the hinge slide out.Not much help but you know what to expect.:) Harvey
     
  15. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,167

    6inarow
    Member

  16. a good 6 point socket and a impact driver. spay with KROIL oil and them try with a big hammer and some heat.
     
  17. killbilly
    Joined: Mar 29, 2009
    Posts: 212

    killbilly
    Member

    Use a Snap-On 6 pt flank drive socket....drives off the flat side of the head..not the point
     
  18. banditomerc
    Joined: Dec 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,095

    banditomerc
    Member

    Here's an update on the hinges I ground down a 6 point socket flat to cough the beveled Edge applied some heat to each bolt there was some WD-40 on the back side and then when added with the socket they came out like brand-new no struggle just have to hammer down the metal around the edge of the door that seemed like that was keeping the socket from going flat on the head thanks for all the help guys

    Sent from my SM-J727T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. banditomerc
    Joined: Dec 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,095

    banditomerc
    Member

  20. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 863

    vtx1800
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Congratulations, I will try to remember the tip of grinding the socket flat, to me that is a stroke of genius.
     

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