Technical Removing door hinges,1939 chevy

I need to replace hinges on 1939 2door sedan..so I have put a socket on some of the hinge bolts and they are soft...the socket slips off...I know I am going to end up extracting them like a dentist..
Does anyone here have any tips on best way to attack this job....bolts have never been of car.....

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Heat is your friend & make sure you use a six point socket. HRP

 

2X what HRP suggests or even a slightly under metric socket.

 

Try getting WD-40 on the threads from inside the pillar and inside the door, a couple of times and a day before you next give it a go.
It's never a fun game as the bolt heads only seam to be half height...
Good luck.
Cheers Aaron.

 

Had someone ask to buy hinges off a parts car I have.

I laughed at them, for this specific reason.

With the cars that use screws I see them take a bit and use an air hammer and rotate the bit with a wrench, I wonder if there's some way to apply that principle here? Hit the head with a flat bit to get some vibration through it before trying to turn it?

 

If oil and heat don't work, I'd suggest finding centres and drill them out before cutting the bolt heads off. I had to do this on my 46 Olds. I then carefully removed the old bolts and re-tapped the threads. At this time I rebushed the hinges

 

Spray the crap out of it with KROIL that stuff really works,you may have to let soak for awhile this stuff works on marine applications and you know corrosion is serious on marine engines, use a brass punch and hammer strike the head of the screw several times , heat will also help you too

 

Heat.......maybe more than once and what ever your favorite lubricant is. I remember what a pain it was to get those bolts out of the hinges on a door I bought (I should have bought the whole darn car) on a 37 Chevy Coupe. If you have rounded the corners I'd suggest welding a real nut on what ever was left, and then use a rattle gun, vibration is your friend. The Studebaker had the same issues with the hinges (except phillips head) and heat, lubrication and an air chisel with the appropriate bit was the solution, drilling them out would be my LAST resort.

 

Thanks for all the replies what I have noticed is that those hinge bolt head are very shallow hardly any meat to grab with a socket or wrench so I think what I'm going to try as go ahead and weld beefier nut to the top of the bolt I just got to do it 6 times on the driver's door. I'd rather do that than hassle with drilling them out and all that other drama that goes with taking out these things

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... oh yeah one other thing well I have everybody's attention on the passenger door the hinges seem nice and tight but the door is sagging what's a good fix for that I've always used the bottle jack under the door and just pushed up on the edge of the door and that's done in the past is there another way of going about fixing that sagging door

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If you haven't rounded them all off yet take a 6 point socket (1/2 isn't it) and take off all of bevel they all seem to have in the opening, lathe would work best but careful grinding should accomplish the same thing.

Not much help really without being able to tell you how but a body man I was dealing with in the late 70's cured the same problem in my sedan by shimming the body at it's mounting points. Seems like we added a shim in one spot, a extra rubber pad probably, I just remember being amazed at the difference it made.

 

Yes body mounts especially at the cowl

 

50/50 acetone and trans fluid . 3xaday for I day then tighten the bolt a little then it should back out

 

Be careful of those bolts,they are a fine thread and have a shallow head for a reason,the thicker ones wont let the door close,they bind the hinge.if you snap the heads off,they still wont come out,the bolts stick out inside the cavity and wont let the hinge slide out.Not much help but you know what to expect. Harvey

 

X2 on KROIL

 

a good 6 point socket and a impact driver. spay with KROIL oil and them try with a big hammer and some heat.

 

Use a Snap-On 6 pt flank drive socket....drives off the flat side of the head..not the point

 

Here's an update on the hinges I ground down a 6 point socket flat to cough the beveled Edge applied some heat to each bolt there was some WD-40 on the back side and then when added with the socket they came out like brand-new no struggle just have to hammer down the metal around the edge of the door that seemed like that was keeping the socket from going flat on the head thanks for all the help guys

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Here's some pics

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Congratulations, I will try to remember the tip of grinding the socket flat, to me that is a stroke of genius.