I’ve been thinking again about the possibility of adding an oil filter to my old splasher engine, has anyone done this before? The old splasher engine has a pump to push oil from the lower tray to the upper splasher tray. I’ve been told that pumps pressure is only around 4-5psi, so I’m not sure if it’s an option. Any knowledge is greatly appreciated!
What splash lube engine are you talking about ? On the Chevy 216/235 splash oilers a part flow filter with small lines ( guys use grease gun lines ) 3/16th I.D ? it’s pretty common . If you change the oil regularly filtration while beneficial is not entirely necessary .
It’s a Hudson splasher & the only pressure system is from the bottom pan to the tray above that the dippers catch oil from to splash around.
A PCV system will go a long way to keeping the oil clean. Between that, and regular oil changes, you'd probably be fine.
Adding a PVC system will cause leaning but can be compensated for by adjusting idle mixture screws and or jetting. Adding a remote oil filter will cause a leak so to speak, no make that a hemorrhage in the oil system for which there is no compensation for. Choose your up grades wisely.
Chevrolet 6’s had bypass filters from 36-53 and they did help. If you get one to use on your Hudson be sure to use their stock filters which were made for low pressure cleaning. It can be mounted remote on any external line or where the gauge it fed.
A PCV system is more effective at keeping oil clean in the long run than a filter. If you're considering adding a filter, a PCV is worth considering too.
The bypass filters are a finer micron filter. So, yes, they only get the bypass oil...but they filter finer particles. Tests have concluded, from memory, all the oil is filtered in a couple miles. So do they work? yes. is it necessary? I'll leave that up to you. How much do you drive? is it a new clean motor?
There is a kit for the model a ford. The model a is also a low pressure system. It filters oil from the pump to the oil gallery that gravity feeds the crank. Its not a bypass system it filters 100% of the oil. The problem with bypass filters is that they literally bypass the main oil feed so reduce oil flow to the motor. they can require a high capacity oil pump to restore pressure and flow. https://automotiveamerican.com/2017...oil-kit-to-the-1929-model-a-ford-sport-coupe/
Use a modified power steering pump to feed a dieselcraft centrifuge that drains back to the oil pan. You would need to open up the relief valve to flow more volume and modify the spring pressure to bypass at slightly less than 100 psi [max]
Kerry, you have to draw that out for me! Not that I have a need, but I’m not understanding what you’re suggesting, and dang it, now I have to know
Dippers. The scoop on the rod bottom went thru a trough mounted in the pan that was fed oil thru the oil pump. The were obviously 6 troughs for the 6 rod scoops. The mains were fed from the oil pump and there is a line internal to feed the rocker arm system. You did not run the engine low on oil or run at high rpm continuously. Truck engines were governed to 3200.
Unless you are after the looks of an oil filtration system, installing one on an engine not designed for one can result is both a loss of oil flow, and in oil pressure. You could be playing Russian Roulette with the engine, the first time that you start it. The metered airflow from a PCV system can be easily compensated for with minor carburetor adjustments. The PCV system keeps contamination out of the oil. An oil filter takes it out, after it is already in there. Which do you think would be best, knowing that one risks the survival of the engine?
A bit more than dip... The tubes that supply oil for the troughs for dipping, suppy a direct stream of oil to the rod "dipper" at higher rpm.....It's a bizzare oiling system with the low pressure mains...Old speed manuals claim it was good 150 hp with short durations up to 5000 rpm...Maybe.....
Just think separate pump and filter, that takes oil from the pan, filters it under pressure, and puts it back in the pan. No connection to the existing oil system, except the pan. Just a crank-driven filter system, doing its own thing.
Yeah, I never understood why, with pressure to the mains, camshaft, and valvetrain, they didn't just drill the passages for the rod journals as well. They really took the scenic route on that.
Dieselcraft centrifuges were designed to take a feed off an oil gallery. They use oil pressure to spin the centrifuge, and are 10x plus better at cleaning oil than a filter. And all the crap can be wiped clean after certain intervals [so the life expectancy is infinate] The centrifuge cannot be connected "full flow" ,it needs to drain back freely. and it needs 50-100 psi to spin the centrifuge. So a low pressure "lucky dip" oil pump isn't sufficient. On a splash "lucky dip" oil system it would need an accessory pump drawing oil from the oil pan. as @gimpyshotrods had suggested. You could use a single stage belt drive pump but these are insanely expensive. 20 years ago I was experimenting with waste ATF/Waste engine oil as fuel in a Mitsy diesel SUV. We modified an Aisin P/steer pump by drilling out all the orifices for volume and installed an 80 ps1 pressure relief spring. In this ^^ case we were drawing oil from the base of a "surge tank" and the centrifuge was dumping it back into the top of the tank. We were getting 8-10 x passes through the centrifuge for the rate of oil consumption. We also had an oil level float from a Toyota Diesel oilpan that triggered an electric pump, so as we consumed oil and the level went down the oil was replenished. Apart from buying the centrifuge ,everything else was made from junk yard parts. In an engine it would get the oil very clean because of re-circulation, but in our "fuel system" we were constantly feeding more dirty oil into the system [so we needed to clean out the centrifuge on a regular basis] here is an example of how much crud a centrifuge can remove from an engine
I am looking around to see if there is any external, belt driven oil pump from industrial equipment (read: not heavy money race car part) that would handle these duties.
This is exactly what Mike at H&H told me when I was trying to decide on filtration for my blown flathead. I followed his advice (and yours) and went with no filter and regular oil changes. To each their own, whatever makes you sleep at night.
Now I am wondering if I could open the clearances in a Saginaw TC pump to accommodate engine oil, and drop the pressure and volume to something that a conventional oil filter would not be harmed by. Pulley reduction could take care of a bunch of it, limited by space constraints.
Best I can tell you, is my banger motor has a filter on it, partial filtration is ok, it keeps the oil from getting dirty as fast but it still does get dirty. I guess my question to you would be this. Do you plan on road tripping the car around the US? If not, The extended duration of oil changes may not be worth it. Also you will cut some PSI of oil pressure by doing a oil filter. I lost 2 lbs on my banger by doing that. To remedy that, there would need to be a Restriction orfice downstream of the filter to increase pressure back to normal and would have to be sized so you keep some flow, I would probably say your usable filtration per cycle of pan to the trays is 20-30% of the oil gets filtered. Its better than nothing for sure. Can be alot of work for little reward. For what its worth I am removing my filter as I have deemed it more hassle than its worth for my car and usage. Hope it helps man.
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