Remember Remember the November BANGER MEET!!!

Just like mine...

 

looking for info on porting my A. Any good links?


Enbloc I bet I made less power.

 

OK, so I've got the roadster body on the frame and am attempting to shim it properly. I thought I remembered a tech piece on here somehwere, but a search has proved fruitless (also thought I had subscribed to it, but apparently not).

Is it normal to have a big gap to fill with shims? I started with a single rubber shim under every bolt...

Any tips? Or just shim until the doors work right?!

EDIT: Noticed the firewall was caught on part of the throttle linkage. Got it setting on there correctly & the gaps aren't quite as severe as before. Duh...

Should I tighten everything down and then check? If so, should I also tighten down the steering to the cowl?

 

1934 V8 Flathead all original chassis and drivetrain 1/2 ton, would a 4 Banger and tranny from a 1 1/2 Ton work with this chassis?

 

Well, havn't done much in the Banger world latley. If you guys remember I fixed up a B to put into my coupe, fired it last year about 15 times and could never get it to quite leaking no matter what I did. Got fed up and sidetracked with other things. This past August I took it to a local Babbit guru to have a rear main seal put in it. Ends up he remembered my unusual block and said he pured it in the 70's!!! Turns out, the reason my block was leaking was due to the babbit lifting of the cap and block enough that oil would squeeze between babbit and block/cap. He finally got around and repoured it plus put a rear seal in it, I picked it up Saturday and today assembled the short block. Hopefully next weekend I'll finish it and Thanksgiving weekend I hope to run it again, and opefully with no leaks!!!! Heres some pics.






Puttin the valves in



And the pistons



And a new coat of Ford green!!

 

Here are some photos I took of a Model T Speedster today that you might enjoy. Being built by McPherson College students here in Kansas.

 

Chris, I hope it goes better this time around. Are those welds on the case or am I seeing things?

poverty, That car is sweet. Glad to see people working on cool stuff,AND have it recognised by the educational system as skills with merit.
I have a couple Q's about that one
Did they make the windshield posts?
Is the front spring wrapped with rope just to protect it from scratches or would someone soak it with heavy oil to keep it lubed??

thanks for sharing you guys, Gary

 

Yep, there welds. Someone welded a plate over the entine side and lowered the radiator hose outlet to the very bottom, making an extended water jacket. They did a damn nice job, I filled it with solvent when I first got it, didn't leak a drop! Pretty wild engine, it also has a B pan with copper fins welded all over it, lightened flywheel, and it was sleeved and bored to standard, so whoever was working on it was trying to keep her cool. Guess we'll see how it goes

Oh yeah, it's a diamond block and has never had a serial number stamped on it.

 

Corn Boy, just went back through this thread and saw the T! Looks great, I have a big smile on my face. Now I wish I kinnda kept it, but I have WAY too many projects!!!!! Engine looks great, got any pics of the whole car????

 

Hi Corn Boy how are you doing? Not sure about the front spring wrap. Didn't ask. They did cast the aluminum windshield posts in their own small foundry and are still working on a center post trying to get one that's perfect. They showed me their wood pattern that was used for making the molds.

 

I'm doing OK Pov'flat. Thanks for asking.
The "T Bomb" project is moving kind of slow. I'm trying to be patient with myself.
I'll try to get a full mock-up pic this week/weekend and post. I'd love some opinions from the ranks. I'm curious to see what it's lookin' like too. Kind of nervous actually What if I don't like it? The garage full of stuff 3/4 view is limiting. To me it's the full profile that tells it like it is.

BLUTO: I'm still trying to wrap my head around the stuff you'r doing. Really interesting. Makes me have to think...and it hurts. Thanks for sharing your projects.

 

Chris,
Is that one of the cranks with the pinned counter weights?
Did you have it ground when they did the babbit? If so, did they remove the counter weights to grind it?

Hope this solves your leak!!!!


I have seen blocks welded like that. mostly done for racing engines to increase the cooling for longer races. I have never heard if it makes a difference of not. The Hal blocks incorporated this theory and they have water jackets that extend all the way down to the crank case.

I would like to see a picture of the pan with the cooling fins. I have also seen copper tubes brazed into the lower sump of the oil pan below the dipper tray that run for and aft. I belive the reasoning was to "air cool" the oil.

To the best of my knowledge, none of the "B" engines had the serial number stamped on the block from the factory. The serial number was stamped on the upper flywheel housing on the right side.

 

Gary,
They wraped the spring to keep the dust and dirt out ot the springs.

Back in the day, most of the racers like that speedster were racing on dirt tracks and roads. Even Indy was dirt before they paved it with bricks.

 

Really, no numbers! Good to know! No, I did not grind the crank but my babbit guy says they have to be removed to grind...yes, they are pinned. Heres a pic of the pan, I'll get some better shots later...

when I got it:



Last fall:

 

Fiddled with the roadster this weekend. Got the body on (still needs final shimming), 16" wheels swapped over (this chassis had 19" wheels), filled the carb bowl with gas & got it sputtering a bit at least. Yanked the hood sides off and put the top on to keep elements minimized. Still need to yank the tank and clean it out (just has debris - leaves, dirt, etc - in it.

Looking for a decklid too...

 

Anyone know if there is a flow difference between the 30-31 Ford oil pump and the one in the 32-34 Model B? I know the shape of the holes are slightly different, but I haven't seen anything else about em.

I'm guessing due to the lack of information otherwise that they are effectively one in the same.

 

Looking Good, There are 2or3 paragraghs in the Bishop/Tardel book on adjusting the body. Pages 93 and 94, I can e-mail you a copy if you want.

 

Went for my first drive in the touring (26' body, 30' chassis) what a blast. Need to work on lots little stuff now. I should have pics by the Dec. banger meet. What do you guys set your points at? .020 seems to wide.

 

0.012" works with most stuff.

 

nice clean job are there many benefits from your header set up i am looking for a new design for when i put my overhead on in NZ we are right hand drive ie steering box in the way may go up rather than down to get clearance

 

Crazzydaddyo,
Heres the pics of the pan. The dipper tray has been brazed in, note the double drain plugs. The friggin pan must weigh about 30 pounds! It does not look as bad in person, the light makes it look like a shittin mess!! Just buttoned her up tonight, gonna run it this weekend! Y'all keep yer fingers crossed

 

I don't really know performance wise, as I havn't run it for more than about a minut at a time. Been fighting a rear main leak for a year. Get a flange cut and make your own!!

 

Chris,
That is crazy!!!!! someone spent a lot of time and braze on that pan.
I hope the thing works out for ya. Looks cool!!! I wish I could find a finned aluminum pan that wasn't any deeper then a stock pan.

I had mine buttoned up ready to put it in and had to pull it apart to fix the lack of clearence between the top of the pistons and the Weiand head.

I've been warned that the distance between the piston and the head should be a positive number I should have it in this week end with any luck.
.

 

Ernie, looking good. Regarding your earlier question about the shims, when I pulled the coupe body off the chassis there were whole heaps of shims in some places, so I wouldn't worry too much about using them if it needs it. Also, a roadster may need more than any other body style as the body can twist a lot easier.
Nobody will be looking at the shims, but everyone looks at the door gaps.

Points? Haven't had a set of them for a while....

 

I was flipping through a Ford tractors book on Monday night, I'm considering buying a buds 9N. Anyhow, they were talking in the book about how the engine in the 9N was essentially a Merc cut down the middle.
Has anyone tried one in an auto application? They're pretty common around here, I was just wondering if with a recam and intakes if they would be viable as a car engine.
Awesome stuff this month everyone. Thanks for sharing.
JK

 

Ernie- One of the first things to check on an A frame is whether it is sagged down at the cowl. Most are, and this means more shims in the middle of the body. Check the top flange of the siderail with a string. To straighten, get a long piece of light I beam suspended under the rail with chain at each end, and put a hydraulic jack between the bottom of the frame and the top of the beam. Takes very little to bend them back to straight, which is probably why they go out in the first place. I've even done this with the body on the frame, after loosening all the body mount bolts, little more trouble, but not as much as taking the body back off. A sure sign of a sagged frame is an unequal space between the cowl and the rear edge of the hood.

Herb Kephart

 

The "B" pump shaft is relieved to allow more volume. This is a modification usually done to the "A" pump when modifying the pump for pressure.

 

Remember that the block and bellhousing are also the "frame" of the tractor, and that being so, are extra heavy. That, plus the lack of speed parts (except heads from the V8) make this not such a good idea. Better to start with something like an early Volvo four, which put out as much HP as the stock V8- and the later ones much more, stock. Much lighter also!

 

Yeah, I remembered that after I posted this - I've got the book - a great read.

Thanks, gents - maybe this weekend I'll tidy it up!

 

Finally got a windshield on the Manx, good thing since it has gotten COLD here in the last week or two.

Will Kimble