Remember Remember the November BANGER MEET!!!

Dirtyest, looking good so far.
Not putting a B engine in there? Is your front spring 32 or A? Could I use 16s up front instead of 17s?

 

Looking good! I like the tire choise, real oldtimey. Just wondering if that roadster body came out of Connecticut a few years ago?

 

Here is a Banger Tech "Lite" post for you guys...

I was apprehensive about using a Model A steering box after reading how much "better" the F1 and F100 boxes were, but decided to stick with it for a variety of reasons - I wanted to use the horn rod / light switch, and I drove my Dad's '30 coupe with a rebuilt steering box and thought it felt pretty good. After some fine tuning, I am very pleased with the results and wanted to share what I did to make the most of the Model A steering box.

I bought a rebuilt steering box & shaft from Mike's and it is working great. Even though it is new, you still have to go through the sequence of adjustments - mine was close, but needed a turn on the eccentric that controls the relationship between the sector shaft and the worm gear.

I ordered a shortened pitman arm from Mike's, with a custom request. When they refurbish a pitman arm, they cut off the old ball, drill it out, and then stick a new ball on a stud through the hole and weld it in place. I asked them to leave the hole, and then we reamed it out with the proper taper for later tie rod ends. I am using new Lincoln brakes up front, with V8 spindles and a hoop steering arm, and this let me order a drag link from Speedway that was set up for tie rod ends at each end.



I was adamant that my car would not have throttle or spark rods, so I made a plain steering column that turned out great. I think it is a 1 3/4" 4130 tube that I ordered from McMaster Carr, I chose this particular one because the ID of the tube matched the steering box perfectly. At the other end, I bought a bronze oilite bushing (1" I think) and had the ID machined to match the steering shaft. I epoxied the oilite bushing in a wooden (hard maple) sleeve, and then shaped the wooden sleeve to fit in the column. I epoxied the wooden sleeve in the column, and also added a couple screws - they are mostly decorative since everything is epoxied in place. I brought the shaft to a perfect fit with emery cloth, sprayed everything with white lithium grease and put it together. It is working great, and the column was a perfect fit in the stock column drop.





After driving a little while, there was too much play in the steering wheel. Most of the problem was from the pitman arm working loose - do not take this for granted! Take the five minutes to knock out the cotter pin and be SURE the pitman arm hasn't worked itself loose.

Also, once I finally got a chance to set the toe I found that our original redneck toe setting was 1/2" of toe out - that is a LOT and will make your car want to turn all the time! Take your time and carefully set the toe according to spec, it is worth it - especially on a car with such a short wheelbase.

To sum up, I just want to say that my car steers better than I expected and that the Model A steering box can be a great choice for a banger powered car. It might be a different story if your parts are all worn out, but here is the encouragement to make the Model A stuff work right.

I also think that a big, heavy V8 up front could change the equation, and the Model A box might not work as well in that situation. But for a lightweight car like mine, I think it can really work great.

I hope this is helpful to some folks, I know it would've helped me when I was getting started.

Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

 

I had this problem.

I kept getting play in the steering and everytime I investigated the pitman arm was loose.
I would tighten up the clinch bolt and after "X" amount of miles it would be loose again and the clinch bolt would tighten up some more.

How can the bolt be coming un-done with a split pin through it?

I know most of the reproduction 'A' hardware is of very dubious quality and thats what I put it down to.
I believe the crappy bolt was stretching when a load was placed on it because it was so soft.

Then I thought, if the bolt is stretching and I keep tightening it, its going to reach a point where the bolt can't stretch no more and its going to snap.

If it snaps, the pitman arm falls off and you will have a very nasty accident.

I replaced the clinch bolt with an original one and have never had the pitman arm work loose since.

 

I'm looking for info on a mid 1920s dirt track car,...Rajo Jack's first car,...or so it seems.
Here's the link,....banger oriented! Thanks a million guys!!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306593

 

crazydaddyo.. love that weiand head!... I dont think I've seen another one.

Coaltown.. any update pics of your roadster? I was looking forward to seeing them.

 

Guess I've lurkin' lately. Guess I otta' post something.
I have been getting a little done on the "T".

Finally broke down and bought a Schroeder box. I was having a really tuff time sorting out steering with the "A" starter in the way. Locating it and sorting out the mounting.
The motor is hard mounted so I'm going to mount the one side to the motor/bellhousing mounts and the other to the side to the frame.
If this sounds like a bad idea, somebody please speek up Tried to locate it as low as possible so I could shorten the pittman arm and slow down the steering. Gary Schroeder was really helpful by the way.

Got the tranny done finally. Bought a couple parts and a know-it-all transmission book from Mac Vanpelt. Awesome guy with a great manual for the Ford V8 transmissions.
Have to redo the the clutch setup, linkage and leverage are screwed up. I have a plan just waiting for parts.

Made a firewall (patina by Bonneville salt, garage floor sweepings, etc.)

Mocked-up exhaust, intake, & magneto so I can sort out carb linkage and fuel lines.
Oh yeah, and a door latch. Please don't tell anybody that the package it came out of said it was made in the 60's It'll be our secret. I just liked it.

 

T-Shirt Up Date:
When I asked Ryan for permission to do the shirt, He said that He would prefer to produce the shirt to maintain the integrity of the HAMB. The deal was that if we agreed on a design and started a list of people that would buy the shirt, then he would handle the rest and sell them to us at cost.
I emailed Ryan with all of the details about the shirt at the begining of last month and have not heard back from him yet. I will let you know if anything new develops.

Dan

 

Bill,
Thanks for the offer, but I want to keep it for now.
I CC'd the combustion chambers yesterday and they measure 130 cc.

I may take more then a clean up pass on it to boost the C/R.

 

Well....... After months I've the HAL DO head back. Two chambers we're badly cracked. Lot's of welding. That looks OK. In addition to all that he fit custom made bronze guides (GOD KNOW WHAT THOSE COST!!) Re- seated the the IHC 2.25 inch valves with 7/16 (11mm) stems and made the spark plug cartridge chamber really small! All things I TOLD HIM NOT TO DO SEVERAL TIMES!!!!!!!!!

It is really special that due to the fact that these guys have new machines they think they know better that you about what you want. AND CHARGE YOU!! Time after time I've been 'out though or over ruled by these 'Craftsmen'!!!!!! I take a lot of time to explain why I want to do things my way. They shake there head yes and say they understand AND JUST DO SHIT!!

I think I can save this but it will cost me several HP if I can't

I've not done business in the UK but mainland EU is just impossible!!! Germans, Pols, nice guys, brand new equipment, DON'T LISTEN!

Sorry for the rant. No back to the offer up the BB Chevy titanium valves and see how big I can open the plug hole!!

Next step:

New Main Caps

Shrink the blocks main saddle inside dimension

Turn Crank

Design the con rods and pistons ( these will be made in So Cal )

 

Shorty there will be,....putting paint on the body,...

 

Any more pics of how you've mounted the A engine in there - especially the front mount?

 

Darren that intake set-up looks the dogs good job petrol prices are dropping though.

My Phaeton has gone to Cornwall along with it my spare C/W crank motor to be replaced by another Ford Banger a 42 GPW!
Only bangers I have now are Go-Devils
Waiting for a rare Darland dual intake to come from the US for the Go-devil engine in the speedster then will fab an exhaust hopefully in stainless using my new TIG.
Made an ali bonnet for the speedster other than that all Jeep stuff.


Phil I have a pair of early brass topped 1.5" SU's if you are still looking for some.
Rich

 

Here's those motor mounts monkeybiker.
The rear one has a tube welded in the frame that connects the top and bottom of the frame and a big bolt going through that. I've read and heard that you should not weld but bolt or rivit crossmembers, etc. so the frame can flex without cracking at the joints, so the frame's an experiment.

 

1930 vicky- when you get that Mitchell installed can you give us a report?


Thanks- E

 

Hey bud!

No, it did not. I bought this body and most of this car from Jambottle. It was a well known car out of Nova Scotia. Was in a museum at one point, show circut, then passed around to a few friends until I got it.

I removed all the paint by hand with a putty knife. Most will freak... as the paint was perfect, just not my cup of tea.

The plan is to keep like this while I work out the bugs....then I'll paint it nice. Not a ding or dent in this car.

I own a 50's hot rod, so I really wanted a nice pre war car. And I'm sure this won't be the cars only incarnation. I get bored pretty quick, I'm sure I'll redo it a few times over it's time with me.

 

Maybe someday... but money is tight with all my cars, bikes, projects, and life. This is what I had, got some goodies in it though.

I'm using an A spring and spring perches. These pics are from before, I've since lowered it.

Don't know what your building? But you can use whatever... I wanted a tall old timey stance.

This car has all kinds of parts... 35 mecanical drums, 40's backing plates and spindles, 32 axle and wishbone. 17's up front. 36 rear, torque, and bones, 40 backing plates, 35/36 drums, 18's in rear. 39 pedals, 39 trans, A motor... Original Miller OHV, Wico mag., Thomas and two 81's which I just scored.

 

Dirtyest, Thanks for the info. I'm working on a 32 Woody. I'd like to keep it tall without fenders, and a warmed up motor. The wagon has 16s all around now. I was wondering if those would work with 18s on the back? Also I'm stickin with the mechanical brakes. It currently has a stock 34 spring in front.

 

Hi guys,

Thought you maybe interested in the Project 29 T-Shirt that is now available thru the New Zealand Hot Rod Magazine.
http://www.nzhotrodmag.co.nz/product.php?id=242

Best regards,

Greg Stokes
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

Sure will.

 

BLUTO I understand your frustration with machine shops they do what they think is best but what they think is best may be how much money they can extract out of you.

 

Bluto,
I can't wait to see that finished. Of all of the banger stuff, I realy dig the Hal DOHC.

I understand your frustration with shops that say yes to what you tell them and do what they want instead.

Can you explain the plug cartrige issue? Are the plugs recessed to deep and too shrouded?

If you don't mind telling us who is making your Rods & Pistons? Are they in Willmington? If it is, I'm going to a meeting there tonight.
.

 

Original Factory Woodie or something made later? There is one here in town and a few others in the area.

 

Crazy

There are better DO HALs We have an early one the ports are way too big! This head fits the pre-1932 rules we must race in. So this is what we use.

Almost all early HALs are cracked. Too much fuel gets you detonation and as I have explained before here breaks cranks and also heads.

The cartridge fire exacerbates the detonation problem. First the plug never gets to cool and the chamber is fraught with hot spots making true spark control impossible

Further putting the plug's projected tip into the chamber keeps it clean. This all means eliminating the chamber and proper plug placement produces several extra HP ....... Maybe 10+ in this engine

The large valves are shrouded and heavy. Not good. I can fix that pretty easy.

With all this welding I have no idea what each chamber cc's now and am going to have work there too.

I have many more hours work now undoing what was done against my wished and instruction. But there is HP living in the effort. Frustrating YES and I will not be able to undo all this assholes mistakes.

Anyone know where Jack Sparks working is now?

I need to find more Dayton wheels too.

 

37Kid, It's original. I have heard of two in your town.

 

Pulled the engine from the roadster last weekend for refreshing this winter. Crankshaft end play is out of specification. Calculating all options. Could anyone point me to a website techno how to drill the crankshaft for full oil pressure system. Recall seeing process somewhere but. Enlighten me

 

I just started to pull my engine apart for a rebuild and to change the Cam ,head, intake and put a down draft carb. But was a little confused on how to remove the engine without taking the whole transmission out. can just the engine be removed or do I need top take the clutch and transmission out all in one shot.
I,m Building a 1930 roadster "40' traditional hot rod" 4 banger.

 

looking great Bluto always look forward to your posts they are full of good tech info that makes sense thanks for shareing Neat project done right

 

Seymour, I know I've seen crank drilling information somewhere, but to be honest I'd rather let a good machineshop do the work. If you still want it, try sending a PM to Bruce Lancaster on here. I'm sure he can help.

Wildthunder, yeah...the engine can some straight out without pulling the trans. You'll need to support the weight of the trans as you're pulling the block out and don't forget that the front wishbone and torque tube are attached under there! The engine may need a bit of a wiggle to free it from the trans input shaft, but it'll come.

It is possible to change the cam without pulling the block out; not easy, but possible. You just need to figure out a way to hold the tappets up when you pull the cam out. Don't rely on the dots on the gear for accuracy either....

 

To do a cam in the car:

Remove Rad

Drain oil

Remove pan and oil pump

Remove front cover

Pull head

Remove valves and springs

Hold tappets up with wooden cloths pins You can glue a little strip of sand paper on the pins face.

Or you can turn the car over on it's side

I do think it is easier to pull the engine and do this on the bench.