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Reliable rust proofing advice needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by famdoc3, Nov 25, 2011.

  1. famdoc3
    Joined: May 14, 2010
    Posts: 63


    So I have tried Rustoleum, POR 15, and watched my Daily Driven 30 Ford rust through. Rear Fenders took 4 years to rust through. Fronts 5 then the quarters and wheelwells went . Body is back off and I bought new Brookville quarters. Thinking about some galvinizing before I put them on hence the new steel. Suggestions to move where it's dry and no salt aren't going to be very helpful. MIKE
  2. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 27,010

    Jalopy Joker

    done a search here? people that go to Bonneville have input too. try - saw several products when I was at their retail store in Nevada
  3. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551


    while there are quality products, i am afraid the best is vigilance. not saying you haven't been mindful of your car. most times catching it in time and killing it is the best prevention for rust through. sorry this has happened. so glad you get it out and enjoy it. good luck.
  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,223


    Oil and grease is the only defense to salt.

    All the old service stations in Vermont, New Hampshire would change your oil, and then spray the undersides with the old oil.

    Makes it messy, and oil will weep out through fender welts on hot days, but it works.

    We used a stiff brush with axle grease under my sons rot repaired Toyota pickup bed. Smear it on, and the oil residue will creep into the lap welded seams.

  5. Rust proof is really not possible, rust prevention maybe.
    An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
    Stainless, aluminium and Chrome will show corrosion.

    All it takes is one little spot missed in the prep to help the coating come off and there is going to be rust. Since the finishing is a layered process, it only sticks as good as what's underneath is stuck to and on down to bare metal. Also Some obscure hidden area that sees moisture and you will have rust.

    Funny how all the old Henry tin lasts out in the open fields.
  6. 100% Matt
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 2,627

    100% Matt

    Yup...I'm doing this on the frame of my 86 Ford Dually. It works...
  7. I've had good luck using 3M Rubberized undercoating in a spray can. If you have it in an area like a wheelwell that gets alot of UV light, you need to paint it though.
  8. have you considered...dare i say... fiberglass?
  9. Buddy Palumbo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 3,870

    Buddy Palumbo

    There's a fantastic product called WAXOYL that really does the trick to rustproof a car after repairs are made . We use it on EVERY car we restore at our shop - we have done so for years . It's a waxy-type "gel" that comes with a pump-sprayer setup . Once you've completed the repairs , you take the container , put it in some good 'n warm water & the stuff becomes almost watery , making it very easy to spray into every crack & crevice . It even seeks it's way into pinch/spot welds around wheelarches & such when ya spray 'em from the inside . We even spray the insides of doors , frames & stuff . It's good shit .

    Here's an example of the starter kit :
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2011
  10. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    from No. Cal

    My best friend coated all the inner panels of his Model A roadster with cosmolene. It never rusted in the very salty air on the beach in Hawaii.
  11. fleet-master
    Joined: Sep 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,774


    i only use fishoilene best there is. tried all sorts too incl waxoyl , por15, tectyl ...although i must say i've seen a few older cars that have been regularly sprayed underneath with the used sump oil as mentioned above and if done regularly it really works pretty good. whatever you use,make sure it softens with heat and will creep, cos it needs to creep into the seems where the rust starts most often. the colour of the car makes a difference too. A black car will rust slower than a white one will my .02
  12. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006


    Oil spraying is messy butit works...I dont use used oil though I like chainsaw bar oil the thin winter stuff, in the past I have heated it up on the wood stove before spraying it on, throw in a wax toilet seal which will melt and really helps it stick
  13. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250


    Buy a sacrificial car for the winters salty roads and show your model A the respect it deserves.
    I love old cars getting used daily, but honestly....driving it in the salt? Why?
    Does it make you "hardcore" or something?

    I think your nuts to be honest.

    Model A's and the like are total rust traps with all the voids and seams they have. Wooden body blocks to soak up the brine...even the outer body T strips etc are a magnet for salty water. There was no consideration for salt water etc when they were didn't exist on roads!
    But you drive your "baby" in it anyway.

    Your getting what you deserve from doing it by destroying your own car.

    Spraying stuff on that car is only gonna slow down the destruction process slightly.

    I'm sorry for the negative post. Honestly.
    I just feel like you might as well be pouring acid over the poor car daily and then asking if we can recommend a good neutralizer!
    I've just seen too much rust and destroyed dreams to condone it ...............:(
  14. Hackerbilt is right about driving it in winter. I've lived in Wisc. all my life and rust is a way of life on cars driven in the winter, based on the picture in your avatar I'd say there is no hope for a Model A that is subjected to harsh winters, I'm not saying you are wrong to drive it year round, if that's what you want to do go for it, but the rust you'll have to live with. As far as rust proofing, well it does more harm than good, it seals up any weeping holes or seams that will let the water (condensation) seep back out. New car manufacturers warranty thier cars against rust for 5 to 6 years, but the warranty is void if "any chemical coating" is sprayed over the factory coating, because they know that it will speed up the inevitable, rust. The big reason you did'nt see alot of rust years ago is because the hwy. depts did'nt use salt in the 30s 40s and 50s. Salt is the killer, if you get it on your car, get it off!!!
  15. 4-5 years on a rust thru is only slightly below todays industry standards.
    Getting a tupperware replica of your car and driving that in the winter might not be a bad idea. At least fiberglass "winter fenders" and steel summer fenders would offer you the excuse to remove them and tend to the minor rust bi-annually before its a cancerous rust thru.
  16. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,023


    im same mind as hackerbilt.dont drive the damn thing in the winter. i live in alabama.we dont get hardly any snow.but we do get plenty of winter rains and i dont drive mine much in the rain. hate to think of that rust gettin a hold while im asleep. have nitemares about really, just fix it and dont drive it in the winter. that aint rocket science.when we lived in chicago i saw cars that were just a couple yrs old starting to rust. aint no way im gonna give 20/30,000. for a car and have it just rust away.we moved.and fast.
  17. carol m
    Joined: Jan 16, 2012
    Posts: 1

    carol m

    We are from New Hampshire and take our truck to N.H. Oil Undercoating. They put the truck on the lift and spray Fluid Film on the under carriage. This stuff is awesome, it is a solvent free, lanolin based rust/corrosion preventive and lubricant that needs to be applied yearly. It also stops the rust from spreading. We pay $129 to have our truck done, but I think it is $99 for a car. Here is the link,
  18. bobbyb
    Joined: Jun 28, 2009
    Posts: 151

    from ohio

    I live in Ohio, and whenever I buy a new car or truck to drive in the winter, I use LPS#3 which is a spray can that applies a liquid that dries to a light grease. It stays put, and don't drip once dry. It works great and penetrates seams. I don't spray seamless panels, but concentrate on seams and other areas where bolts come thru bodies etc. I also spray in the doors and between the hood panels etc. I suggest use it in an area outside in the summer on gravel or some place you will not be walking in the over spray. I use a local dead end street that has no homes located on it.....great for sliding around under the vehicle.
  19. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,349


    Winter beater car.
  20. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357


    Ford uses waxoil on their superduty frames. I stripped my frame to paint it and make it shiny and I have to say that that stuff is tuff when it is a little thicker. I trued a ton of methods to remove it and the only thing that worked was heat, scraper and lacquer thinner. I think that stuff is great if you can't see where you spray it. It does start to turn brown over the years
  21. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,349


    Very little road salt spread on open fields.

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