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Projects Rehpotsirhcj’s 30 Flathead Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Rehpotsirhcj, May 30, 2010.

  1. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    UPS dropped off a package this afternoon. At first I thought it might be a Leg Lamp:
    53A741B1-7180-4A66-88E1-297A1EC435A3.jpeg

    Even better, new top wood!
    168A8D87-7FCF-4D4E-9F5C-1C47499BF905.jpeg
     
  2. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    First fit.
    This makes me happy.
    42D93A3D-3F88-49E2-AA12-83B6D79D038B.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2021
  3. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Word to the wise, when you buy a wood kit, don’t purchase the hardware. I found that they were mostly too short and even different diameter than stock. Instead, get the book below that explains everything explicitly. Then go to the hardware store and spend $20 bucks on what you need.
    68FE77D8-E79D-4C50-B72B-CB39F5C884AF.jpeg
     
  4. Boxcar's 1928
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 569

    Boxcar's 1928
    Member

    Subbed to your thread...paid particular attentions to your inner bracing...as you know I'm dealing with that now. Glad to see I'm not by myself in buying rough projects!! Fine job Sir!

    R/
    Boxcar
     
    Stogy likes this.
  5. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Thanks man, I appreciate it!
     
    Stogy likes this.
  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 21,178

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I installed a wood kit into my former A and I did not disassemble the body...what your doing is probably more of a factory based approach...and that's admirable...some wood certainly needs finessing to get things right...I guess theres several suppliers for these kits and quality and content vary...

    It's a huge hurdle in the process once you figure the puzzle out...and it seems you have...;)
     
    Jet96, brady1929 and Rehpotsirhcj like this.
  7. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    I’ve read that the kits can vary quite a bit, and that a few suppliers have insultingly low quality. By dumb luck I went with Fordwood.com. I reasoned that if that’s all they do they must be pretty good at it. No complaints with either service or quality, so I’d recommend them if someone is looking. Just buy your own hardware. :)
     
    Stogy likes this.
  8. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 21,178

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bought the Top Kit with Hardware and didn't find to many issues other than filing wood to clear metal here and there...The instructions were scarce...I don't have the receipt anymore but it may have in fact been the place you got yours...I may have bought extra elsewhere to sub for bolts to short but most was used...maybe I got Tuesdays picker...:)

    But I overwhelmingly remember thinking of Henry's team rasping and filing away for 8 hours a day to get those A Bones out to the Consumers...
     
    brEad and Rehpotsirhcj like this.
  9. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Small update. I’ve been working on my 53, and so the A has been on the back burner for about a month.

    I found a set of trunk drip rails on eBay. They have some surface rust, but they were reasonably priced. New sets were out of my “feel good at that price” range, but I think these will clean up fine. Hats off to those that can make these. I used quite a bit of steel and effort trying. Sometimes it’s just best to buy the darn part.
    9AFBB1EF-3D11-48EF-91C6-B25AAEC22182.jpeg

    I only need one rail but might replace both if they don’t match well with the stock rails. I have an extra rear window panel that is good other than the gutter, and so I’ll probably patch that up so it can be used by someone down the road.
    59269033-D1E9-4681-8CF1-43EBA507D1B7.jpeg
     
  10. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    More b-pillar fun today. I made a couple tabs and in the process learned that a small chisel is excellent for punching square holes in sheet metal for carriage bolts. I used rivets for the moment, until I know I have all the braces etc where they will live. Even as-is it’s stiffened up a lot. I can slam the door, say in a short-lived fit of rage, without thing moving around on me.
    The passenger side is b-puller seems about a half inch lower than it should be, and so that’s my next target.
    31A2F16B-94EA-4A3C-B9D5-3976DC4B1565.jpeg

    D141D38C-8034-4DAD-9F87-AE2F82167979.jpeg

    61B80351-B28C-45C8-AEB2-2E6EDF24F263.jpeg
     
  11. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,320

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Working toward mufflers for my engine run stand. I love an open header Flathead, but my neighbors probably not so much. Anyway, I need a flanged pipe for my collectors and the darn things are $20 bucks plus shipping each. So I got on YouTube and found a video of someone using a big ass ball bearing and a press….seemed sketchy, and I don’t have a 4 inch ball bearing laying around. Next video was Lazze. I’m impressed. Who knew you could do this with a cheap bead roller?! Learn something every day. It’s not perfect, but it should work.
    2D4AB0D6-7275-4CD4-A817-C0EF25A79847.jpeg
     
    oliver westlund likes this.

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