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Projects Rehpotsirhcj’s 30 Flathead Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Rehpotsirhcj, May 30, 2010.

  1. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Finally found a top for my driver's side rear quarter. Huge POS but I can can piece it back together. I must be sick in the head to get excited over a crumpled up wad of tin like this.
     

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    brEad likes this.
  2. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Change in plans, scored a rough set of original 32 rails and a 36 X-member and met some great guys in the process.

    Blew it apart and began the process of getting them down to metal.
    I intend to leave the back bobbed with the A rear crossmember, and then buying a set of the 29" front horns from American Stamping Co.
    Lots of holes, crappy welds and dings over the years to repair...should keep me busy for a while.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Chicho Russo and kidcampbell71 like this.
  3. HotRodHighley
    Joined: Feb 12, 2008
    Posts: 395

    HotRodHighley
    Member
    from cincy, oh

    looks like your headed in the right direction. keep the updates coming
     
  4. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    Nice score on the deuce rails... It's hard to beat a chopt A coupe on deuce rails...:rolleyes:
     
  5. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Door tops and garnish mouldings are all available new from your local Model A parts vendor if you can't find old ones when you need them.
     
  6. Is that the frame from Rolf? You lucky dog. ;)
     
  7. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Thanks, I now have the door tops. I just need the garnish moldings for the door. I've seen a couple sets come up on e-gay, I've just always had something better to buy so far. Nice to know someones making them if it comes to that though.


    Yup. :) Got what I feel was a really fair deal, super nice folks, and got a little shop tour to boot. He does some really nice work.
     
  8. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    I thought I'd pull in a couple of other pieces just to have everything in one thread: 40 rear, 3sp toploader, and the 49 flatty ready for paint (going grey).
    I'd post photos of the finished subrails, but I'll have to cut out most of what I just replaced for the new frame. I'll post a few shots when I get that done if there's interest. Goes to show you don't need big bucks to make progress on a traditional hotrod.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. sirhc
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 164

    sirhc
    Member
    from Boise, ID

    Great pile of parts, can't wait to see the finished project.

    btw - nice username!
     
  10. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Thanks, you too! Seems about 1 in 20 or so get it. The rest just think I'm Swedish or something.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2011
  11. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    The driver's side A pillar was wanged pretty good at some point. I've been trying to get the cowl squared up on the frame so I can start assembling the body. Damn thing was bashed in at the bottom, twisted, and pushed out and forward at the top.

    I got a little pissed at it last night and cut the thing out all together. I'd nearly cut through the top of the pillar trying to get it strait anyway, so I went ahead and just replaced the lower portion and the majority of the cross beam with what I had left of my other cowl section.

    I still need to bolt up the front of the tank and get it down to match with the front quarters, tack up the rail, and replace the top of the pillar. Its a bit of a mess, but it feels good to be rid of the bashed up portion.
     

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  12. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Also picked up three 40 ford steelies and repop standard caps yesterday from another Hamber (great guy). So I'm looking for a fourth 4 x 16 if anyone has one laying around. Great start to the weekend.
     

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  13. Grommet
    Joined: Oct 24, 2008
    Posts: 532

    Grommet
    Member
    from South GA

    Look'in good
     
  14. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Finally had time to work on the coupe a bit yesterday and thought I'd post a little update.

    I got the center brace welded up and then got the A-pillar tacked in. I used an angle gauge to match the top to bottom angle offset of the passenger side both front to back and side to side. The tank fits much better with the front quarters now and the windshield frame looked good from side to side, so I think I'm close. Once I get the fit right I'll hang the doors and see where I'm at with fit.

    The cowl repair seems to be taking forever. I feel like a 1930's collision repair man.
     

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  15. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Mailman brought some goodies today, New horns!
    [​IMG]
     
    Vic Walter and brEad like this.
  16. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    Lookin' good!!! Did the horn's come with new spreader bar spacers??? Henry welded the spreader bar spacers to the rails in the original deuce chassis but the guys that repop the rails ship them loose.
     
  17. sierra rod shop
    Joined: Feb 16, 2011
    Posts: 382

    sierra rod shop
    Member

  18. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers


    Really? No, I wasn't aware there were spreader bar spacers. No mention of them with the horns themselves (American Stamping Co.). The bar is a Vintique Craigslist find. I'll have to look again at the ASC site to see if they sell them...
     
  19. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    <table frame="hsides" rules="groups" border="2" cellpadding="5"><tbody><tr><td>Frame Rail Front Support Plates (2 pieces)</td><td>2PK</td><td>4.00</td></tr></tbody></table>
    Damn! :D
     
  20. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Got the frame horns welded up (mostly).
    I bought an "A-style" front crossmember from ShadowRods, now its time to figure out the crossember placement and how best to fit the rear A crossmember into the frame. I've decided to box the frame in case I decide to run a larger engine (dare I say Hemi?) down the line. I generally don't like the look of a boxed frame, but I'm thinking maybe a set with the pressed holes might look okay. If anyone has a favorite method of placing an A rear crossmember I'm all ears.

    [​IMG]
     
    Vic Walter likes this.
  21. fiveohnick2932
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 891

    fiveohnick2932
    Member
    from Napa, Ca.

    What happened to your sub rail/frame in that body? I was just going to comment on how you are lucky to have them but then I saw you took it apart. I found a cherry body but my subrails are gone via the hot wrench back in the day for channeling.
     
  22. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    The subrails are in pretty good shape forward of the wheel well. I don't know the history of the body but they're wacked right about where you'd have to cut them to clear a 32 frame. Could have been part of a trunk to pickup bed conversion back in the day too, I guess.

    Funny thing is that I had intended to run the A frame and had just finished repairing the missing portion of the subrails when I found the 32 frame. At the moment the body is sitting on the A frame so I can fit the doors, wood, etc. Then I'll have to cut my work out and start a new set of subrails to make it work with the new frame.




    [​IMG]
     
  23. Matthew
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 166

    Matthew
    Member
    from Burien, WA

    Nice to see a fellow wahington hamber on here; great start of a project...
     
  24. Matthew
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 166

    Matthew
    Member
    from Burien, WA

    Ha ha
     
  25. Murch
    Joined: Sep 10, 2011
    Posts: 103

    Murch
    Member

    I really like the A's on deuce rails, gonna be awesome! Great work!

    Murch.
     
  26. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    So things have been pretty slow lately. I'm trying to get a shop built this summer, so most of my extra cash has gone to that little endeavor.

    I did score a complete F1 front end, steering box, and a set of shock mounts a couple weekends ago. Not bad for $50. Just a few blocks from my house, so I couldn't pass it up.

    I'm hoping to trade off the f1 axle and spindles for a good set of round backs.

    I was reading the recent thread on electrolysis the other night so I thought I'd give it whirl on the hubs and backing plates. I don't want to oversell this technique, but damn! An overnight soak and a few minutes with a wire brush made a huge difference.
     

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  27. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    nice project bro
     
  28. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    Looks like you got serious with the ground rods??? Yea, I'm sold on using electrolysis for rust removal also...
     
  29. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    Battery charger, 6v or 12v, 2, 6, 12 amp? Thanks.
     
  30. Rehpotsirhcj
    Joined: May 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    Rehpotsirhcj
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    12v 6 amp seems to work well. I also switched to larger clamps..seemed to work better with the increased surface area making contact. Cool stuff.
    Do a search, there's tons of additional information on the process in various threads.
     

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