The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by iwanaflattie, Jul 14, 2011.
Don't feel bad, I had just put that high dollar Amsoil Z Rod oil in mine and then it did it again!
Yup I got boned big time,I read good reviews of the shop,He let a guy walk with him to the shop to show hi what went wrong with his car,his wife gave my son a toy and she played with him.
It was 100% great customer service.
I was walking like a zombie after working grave yard and no sleep,so I was sold.
I signed the paperwork without reading(my fault)
So like someone said:Mark it as experience.
my answers or his.?
Imagine if Traditions Racing was the one dealing with this shit.I am glad he understands my situation.
As soon as I saw his post I wandered if the the shop owner found my thread.
I will try that if the guy doesnt come through.
I will find this week.
I hope you are right but I doubt it.
If he wanted to make it right he would have called me and asked me when I was coming to drop the carb off.
Ok so I went to Vegas to get my carb checked,fixed or replaced.
I told the guy exactly what happened.
He told me that he would fix it or get me a replacement.
He told me to comeback in the evening.I reminded him that I lived 92 miles away and could not hang around in town for 10+ hours.
He called his technician and they talked and then they told me to wait for 10 minutes.
20 minutes later he brought the carb and said that it was ready??????????????
Well I tested the carb today and it doesnt leak at all but my truck is not starting.
I suspect that its the distributor.
I took the dizzy and the dizzy shaft out to clean it and inspect it for cracks etc.
I changed the points and the vacuum advance diaphragm.
I am sure I put all the spark wires correctly but now I am having my doubts.
1-How do I know I installed the distributor correctly?I was told to insert the shaft and turn it till it was all the way in and it didnt matter where the rotor pointed.
2-If the dizzy is correctly installed,will the truck wont start if the spark plug wires are in different positions in the dizzy cap?
3-I hooked the coil cable to the points like this:NEG side on the coil to the cable in the points.was this correct?
I have stock distributor and I am looking to get an electronic set up for later.I just want to start it for now,thanks
flattie, ok, looking at the front of the truck, the crankshaft turns clockwise, and looking down at the distributor rotor it also turns clockwise. Now, drivers side cylinders are numbered 1-7 front to back and passenger side 2-8 front to back. Take out all the plugs and turn over the engine while someone has thier finger over the hole for #1. go in slow steps, when you feel the woosh or feel pressure pushing out the hole, try and stop when the mark on the balancer lines up with the TDC mark on the tab. Now picture the distributor with the vacuum can pointing to cylinder #6, put the cap on and the #1 will be pointing to the #1 cylinder. Put a magic marker mark on the distributor body in line with the #1 terminal on the cap. Remove the cap. Now line up the rotor with the #1 mark and look at the bottom of the shaft, and look down into the cavity where the distributor will mesh with the oil pump shaft. These need to look like they will line up when the distributor drops into place. As you lower the D, you will have to rotate the rotor counterclockwise about 1 spark plug terminal until the teethe mesh and it will drop all the way down. The rotor will turn clockwise and the oil pump shaft should line up with the D shaft. Before you do this make sure you have a good gasket. If you dont it will leak a lot of oil, and cause a vacuum leak and possible rough running comdition. So vacuum can to #6, rotor to #1, and D is fully down right. Start with number 1 plug wire and work around the clock 18436572.
After that deal, make sure you have spark, and fuel. Use a good spark plug and see if you have spark by hooking it up , grounding it well and cranking the engine. Be cautous, this could ignite some fuel laying around in the intake or somewhere else so be careful!! Now for fuel, do you have a small filter between the pump and the carb? If not get one, a clear plastic is fine for now. Now when you crank the engine you can see if the fuel pump is pumping. I dont like to pour gas down the carb through the butterflys. Instead see the little tube pointing up in the front part of the carb? Pour gas slowly into this tube. Now work your throttle a few times and see if the accelorator pump is squirting fuel into the venturi's. If so, try and start the engine. Have a FIRE EXTINQUISHER handy, that's not a joke. Good Luck!!!
easier explanation I ever had.
now to be sure driver side cylinders are 1357from front to back and passengers side is 2468 from front to back, correct?
Traditions you have won a cool t-shirt made by me for helping me out dude,what size are you?
Yes cylinders are correct, I'm sure the shirts are awesome, but thank you but I only accept friendship, let me know if I can help further, TR
part number for the clear fuel filter at NAPA #3003, this is for 3/8" fuel line in and out. part # 3033 for the steel body one. I run the steel one back by the fuel tank and the plastic see through between the pump and carb, TR
Right now I have
a new stock fuel pump
Old style glass see through fuel filter
New carburetor fuel filter
New spark plugs
I am waiting for some supernatural force to give me the will to go out side to try and start the truck,
I was just out there taking the front sheet metal off to have easier access to the engine.
everything is 100+ under the shade.
I will definitely get new fuel filter.
Distributor mounting/base gasket part # 70194 B25934 at NAPA. There only $1.29, buy 2 and have a spare, TR
thanks.I need that gasket and the one inside the dizzy looks the same size and goes in the shaft but before the plate that holds the pointer
Fill the float chamber with some gas and give the pedal a few pumps before you try starting it.
I was always taught not to turn any carb upside down..for various reasons for various carbs..some for the simple reason of not disturbing the shit on the bottom of the fuel bowl., and some reasons as to not have some internal parts on some carbs to come out of their normal resting places..
maybe is an old wifes tail..but i have stuck with it.
now speaking of old wifes tails..i gotta go
aint nothin wrong with a good Quadrajet
Find TDC. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Stab distributor so the rotor and vacuum advance look like this.
If the distributor doesn't drop all the way in, turn the engine over one by hand until the distributor drops, keep turning until you get to TDC compression again and look at the indexing of the rotor and vacuum advance. When you get it to here (^^^) install the cap, number one is where the orange vacuum cap is.
No offense, but if you can't stab a distributor and run the plug wires, you probably don't need to be thinking about taking a carb apart. It's pretty basic stuff. Maybe some one locally can help, it's a lot easier to explain in person than over the internet.
no offense taken,I am pretty dumb but I am willing to learn.'
even if I have to screw a good carb
thanks you make it easier to understand.
now there is two wires inside the dizzy the one wire going to the negative post on the coil is hooked up to the points correct?
Right, and there is a condensor wire that connects to the points too.
just to be clear, your motor was running but the carb was leaking fuel? you had the carb fixed and couldnt get it to start so you pulled out your distributer?
do you know how to set your engine on top dead center?
heres how i install a distributer in a SBC, place your engine on top dead center, place your dist. in the hole with the rotor pointed toward number one cylinder, if it doesnt go all the way down it is not ingaging the oil pump shaft, so then you need to rotate the oil pump shaft till the dist. can sit down in it's proper place, i do this with the dist. itself, i raise the dist. up and rotate the rotor counter clockwise one tooth on the cam gear and lower it back down, i keep doing this till the dist. does drop all the way down into it's place, (the act of pulling the dist up and rotating it one tooth at a time in a counter clockwise directing will rotate the oil pump shaft) i take note of where the rotor is pointing, if it is pointing at say 3 on a clock face i dont want to back it all the way around back to #1 so i take a short cut, i pull the dist. up and rotate the rotor 180 degrees or to 9 on the clock face, it should drop back down and if not then i rotate the rotor counter clockwise one tooth, keep backing up one tooth till your back to the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder, this may sound like alot of work but if you do it a few times or like me 100 times it is super simple and very fast. remember your not pulling the dist. all the way out just enough to clear the cam gear.
Yes my truck was running fine but It started to shut off randomly so I replaced a few things:
new spark plugs
new ballast resistor
new mechanical fuel pump
and I still had problems then my carb started leaking bad so I decided to get it rebuilt.
When I had the carb out I thought that I should replace points and vacuum advance so I pulled the dizzy out to clean it and take it with me to get the rigt parts since the people at the parts store always give me a hard time when I go get parts.
I got the carb back and it wasnt right to I took it back
They "fixed" it and it would not start because I had the points hooked up wrong.
I fixed the points problem and now the new starter is acting up!!!!!!!!
I just wanna sell this bitch now.
Don't sell it! Just get it fixed, and you'll be glad you did. There are enough people watching this thread to help you through the tough stuff. We've all been there and probably said similar stuff at one time or another. I guarantee if you sell it as it is, someone will get it running and you'll be pissed off when you see them flying down the road.
I should clarify...I am so frustrated that i feel like selling it but I wont.
Flattie, do you have the real starter bolts for the starter? You can tell them by the shoulder or shank area, that's the area with NO threads. They will have little knurling or stampings in the shank, all most like someone put them in a vice and tightened it real tight. Also if you have the timing way off, or the wires wrong, or even a tooth off on the distributor, the starter might be kicking back. It's letting you know something is possibly wrong. The point gap or better yet the dwell must be set before you set the timing. Take the hose off of the vacuum canister at the distributor and plug the hose good, so you dont have any vacuum leaks at the carb. C'mon, we are all waiting for the smoky burnout video, TR
Thanks guy I got it running.
Its running rough So I will change sparkplugs,spark plug wires,oil,dist mounting gasket.
And see what happens.
I assume I dont have the timing right but...
So I put the carb back on and i install the dizzy the right way and after i put a little gas in the carb,the truck starts right up.
The passenger side jet squirts ashit lot of gas while the driver side almost drips.
the engine runslike shit and it chokes after i ush the gas a bit.
is there any hamber close by that could help me with this??
im willing to pay for your time and effort.
I just cant trust any mechanic
I have a buddy who is a wizard at Quadrajet's and it don't happen in 2 hrs.
If you are willing to spend the money on having someone look at it why not just buy a new 600 cfm Holley and throw it on there? That'll solve the problem real quick. I have a Qjet on my 350 and when I can afford a new Holley the Qjet will end up on the shelf. Did warranty work on them alot in the late '70s, they're a pain in the ass and too delicate. Holleys are easier to tune and tinker with.
I think you are thinking straighter than me oahuEli.
I got the truck running like dream for good 10 minutes.
I had to adjust the carb and dizzy.
so just gotta play with it a little more and get the carb re-rebuilt by someone else.
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