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Projects =Rebuilding the Plymouth Flathead=

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by =StreamlineDeco=, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,808

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    Jaguars used porcelainized exhaust manifolds for years and this is probably the nicest finish you can have. Durable as long as you keep water off the manifolds when they are hot (E-Types with their louvered bonnets errrr hoods suffered this). Your friend with the import shop should be able to hook you up with someone who porcelainizes. An alternative is Jet Hot, fairly affordable also.
     
  2. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    No, I don't. But wouldn't mind working in one :) "Vintage cars Please!"
    I've just had the opportunity to get some work done at school, home and my buddy's shop.
     
  3. touchdowntodd
    Joined: Jan 15, 2005
    Posts: 4,034

    touchdowntodd
    Member

    grab some finned side covers while you are doin the rebuild.. they are cheap and look GREAT IMHO.. plus, a period accesory..

    miss my 51 plymouth with the 6, i love em! sound great through a pair of smitthys with 2 carbs!
     
  4. RATFINKFOREVER
    Joined: Jul 3, 2007
    Posts: 207

    RATFINKFOREVER
    Member
    from Canada Eh

    keep up the great work I'm in the process of doing up my 6 in my dodge.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  5. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Hey folks! A continuation from last night's post:

    As mentioned, after the seats were cut on the SERDI, we encountered some technical difficulties. The cutter we used was a tad bit off and when we mocked up the seats they just fell in! Wasn't good. And we did all but one like that. In the end we ended up only using one of the stellite seats I purchased (through VintagePowerWagons.com) and made the rest on a lathe out of stock from the shop. No worries.

    Just in case you guys wondered..I ended up leaving the original exhaust seats because I heard they wouldn't get abused as much as the intakes and just cut them clean when I did the valve job.

    Here are some pictures...

    Stock tubing..
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The finished product. Also cut a slight taper on the bottom to make it easier to install.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    I did! Can't wait to slap those on. I'm thinking of polishing them a little too. Maybe to raised portions.
     
  7. Damn..............now I gotta find a flat six.
    Nice save kid!
     
  8. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Here's a short clip of the lathe..
    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/rz3bi9bh8GA&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rz3bi9bh8GA&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
     
  9. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    I like! Any info on the flatty? I originally painted my cylinder head black, then sanded it down to get the color it is now. I like your combo, though.
     
  10. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Seats installed and need to be grinded down before the valve job can be done.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Here, I had to grind the seats down, then file them close. Close enough so the cutter's wouldn't damage the seat or blade.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Close
    [​IMG]

    Along the way I came across the thought of decking the block. I decked the head and to insure a tight fit (and a little extra compression) I thought I should have the block decked, also. At my buddies shop it was difficult to mount the whole block on the machine to do the job, and by this time I wanted the Top-End Done!

    I called a nearby engine rebuilding shop and got a quote to get the block decked. I told him I wanted it cut clean. Not a lot of cutting..just smooth. got a good deal and took it over. I figured I'd take advantage of the time it'd be there so I asked them to cut the seats, as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2008
  12. What a sweet little mill! Good work saving this thing and bringing it back to LIFE!
    Ya got any pics of the actual car? Can't wait to see this...................
     
  13. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Thanks! A couple pages back. It's the Green Coupe ;)
     
  14. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Here's the block decked and ready for paint..
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Started masking
    [​IMG]

    more masking..
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    more..
    [​IMG]

    ok done
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    sprayed on some high temp primer
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    First coat of color..
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  18. blackrat40
    Joined: Apr 19, 2006
    Posts: 973

    blackrat40
    Member

    Engine building is something that gets in your blood.
    Now you've done it, your hooked for life! Ha-Ha ! Join the club,it's a sickness.
    What a great build you have underway there. I applaud your choice of the flathead six over the modern V-6. That would not have satisfied you this way.
    I love the art deco style of the 40's. Your car is beautiful.
    I know some will disagree but I would encourage you to not chop it.
    I feel like more of a custodian of the '40 Ford coupe I'm building,rather than
    the owner of it. Someone else will own it some day and the beautiful lines
    will be enjoyed by future car nuts some day. Any attempt by me to improve
    on the lines would be sadly absurd I'm afraid! Sort of like "automotive rape".
    I have been building hot rods for 40 years (not professionally) and I say you
    are right on target with your build,just the way you are going.
    Regarding the high RPM's on the highway mentioned before;I bet some guys
    on here might know of an overdrive unit that could be installed.
    Keep on wrenchin' !:cool:
     
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  19. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Second, heavier coat..
    [​IMG]

    And some clear..
    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  20. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,808

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    Damn. That looks nice.

    These engines are so 'square'. It is a beautiful thing. I hate the way the basic shape gets hidden with all the accesories, cabling and so on.

    When mine goes back together I must find a way to eliminate or hide as much of the clutter as I can.

    Question: as long as you are painting it so nicely, have you thought about painting the inside of the crankcase and lifter valley with Glyptal?

    One other thing: I can't really tell from the photos. It is advisable to chase each and every tapped hole before you reassemble.
     
  21. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    Thanks for the kind words, blackrat40! You're absolutely right! I got bit by the bug-and I like it! I love the look of these old flatheads. I look at these engines and it just takes me back and I imagine it being the late forties or early fifties, driving around in not-so-populated regions. Enjoying the fresh air we once had and going to a drive-in! The glamour, art and style of way when will never be reached by today's culture. Atleast not in its entirety!
    Nevertheless, I love to pretend that little by little, I am.

    An overdrive would be nice :)

    =Adrian=
     
  22. =StreamlineDeco=
    Joined: Oct 21, 2006
    Posts: 177

    =StreamlineDeco=
    Member

    It's funny, these engines are so simplistic in their design. Still, they stand out like sore thumbs and I think that's why people find them so appealing. I do!

    Glyptal is on my list for valleys within the block! And I DO plan to tap each and every bolt hole. Thanks!
     
  23. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,808

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    I read somewhere on this list that the head bolts use Class 3 threads (also, banjo rear end center sections). If this is true, retapping with a regular tap supposedly blunts the threads, leaving the bolt a little wiggly.

    A) Is this true and if so have I described it properly?

    B) Are Class 3 taps reasonably available (McMaster-Carr, wherever)?

    C) Is it OK to retap with a regular tap and then replace the original head bolts with modern 'regular' replacements?
     
  24. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,412

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    I used an old head bolt with some reliefs filed vertically in the threads to chase the threads for the head bolts. I used a pioneer parts head bolt for a 350 chevy motor.

    the Pic shows the stock head bolt compared to a grade 8 bolt, which I used succesfully on an older 218 engine, and then the Pioneer bolt. Part number is PG 362 - 25 witht he 25 being the piece count. I think they were 89 cents a piece.

    The paint I used was a bronze Hammertite. It isn't available in the states any longer having been bought up and replaced by a Rustoleum product. The rustoleum doesn't hold a candle to the Hammertite. the Hammertite has glass beads in it that link up to form its unique surface. It was available in several metalic and non metalic colors.

    I might be concerned about the valve seals you produced. The stock MOPAR seals were hardened, and do not mind running on unleaded gas. Might be something you need to think about.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. Great tec/post man !! I love the MoPar Flatheads. If I ever get my hands on a 39/40/41 Plym, Im thin king of keepin the flathead as well.

    Nice ride youve got there too !!

    Keep the pix comin !!

    Rat
     
  26. RATFINKFOREVER
    Joined: Jul 3, 2007
    Posts: 207

    RATFINKFOREVER
    Member
    from Canada Eh

    bored .40 over 3/4 rae cam,aluminum pistons, the cylinder head has been cut down, valve grind, oricginal rods and valves just all cleaned up, new valve springs,ported and polished intake and exhaust ports. making custom header for it down but using the original intake till i make my own down the road. IF all goes well i should gain about 50 hp at the end onf the build.
     
  27. ArtGeco
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 754

    ArtGeco
    Member
    from Miami


    How do you know if it's AM or PM.
    Super cool thread, thanks!
     
  28. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,808

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    The D/N arrow on the casting. Day shift or night shift.
     
  29. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 496

    hkestes
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    I am running a set of ceramic coated headers from Langdons on my 48 Plymouth coupe. I had concerns about the proximity of the headers to the stock fuel pump as well but have had zero problems with it even during a Dallas summer. Mine is a daily driver so it sees plenty of use and no issues with the headers/pump to date.

    [​IMG]
     
  30. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,161

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    thanks for sharing the build photos they were way cool just like a brand new engine now
     

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