The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by racer-x, Sep 19, 2015.
For me this is true hard core hot rodding. I wouldnt want it any other way.
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Its hard to capture a pic holding a flash light and phone but here goes. The first pic shows were im looking through. Its the distributor hole up front. Looking into the engine on pic two the cam lobes can be seen. The dark one is the exhaust. Its right on top of the relief cut into the rod. The other pics are looking through number two lifter bores. The rod bolt hole can be seen there just below the cam lobe. I hope the pics provide a better explanation of what im doing compared to just a description.
The first pair of rods are in for good. We use a stretch gauge on the rod bolts. Grp says 90 foot pounds on the torque wrench will stretch the bolt .007-.0075 and they are correct. This torque spec is with their supplied bolt lube. The trick here is to set the adjustable pin to create the most spring pressure. This helps provide the most stable and accurate reading.
Another hurdle was completed monday in regards to being compliant with home land security laws for possessing nitro. I got the on site inspection and application process completed. It took over nine hours. I cant get into details but i can say the process was extremely involved and complete. As much of a pain in the ass this all is its good to know there are goverment agents looking out for our nations safety.
I'm curious; did the inspector have any comment about your using nitro in a 'street' car? LOL....
They are not too concerned with how i use it. Im legit. Their big concern is if a bad guy gets ahold of my fuel and how they will use it. Nothing good will come of that. Timmothy mcveigh used nitro bought at a track in dallas to build his bomb in oklahoma city. I can say if anyone breaks into my shop it will be treated as a terrorist threat until proven other wise. If the alarm or cameras gets tripped its a full on responce from all local law enforcement agencies. It wont end well for them. Every agency in se wisconsin is aware of whats in the shop. It will automattically come up on the dispatchers screen alerting them to a possible terrorist threat. Nobody is taking this lightly.
I will just ask you for a can.
I guess I will call before I stop over for a visit... between the dog(s), camera’s, alarm, guns, and the Police dept. just down the road your place is well protected. If I hear Helicopters and see search lights North of me I will know something isn’t right at your place!
Jim you have nothing to worry about. Stop over any time. dont forget the drones. Home land security had some very interesting photos of my property. When i asked about them and how they dont look like google maps i was told we use our own sattelites. Things that make you go hhhmmmm. Its too bad a few bad actors make these things necessary.
Do I need to apply for security clearance documents?
I may have it consider installing camouflage netting over my place so the drones have a challenge seeing what’s going on over here!
its funny you should mention that. my family and crew need to have back round checks. they are required by anyone that has access to the fuel. its already hard to see what you are doing your cars are small..
The short block is ready to go in the car. it was a lot of work getting everything to fit just right. Im going to get .100 longer rods next time to move the piston away from the counter weights. I can then use a thicker gasket to drop the compression. This will save alot of time in the future. The engine needs to go in the car so i can check the converter to fly wheel clearance. Im suspecting im going to have to remove material off the back side of the mid plate.
Im suspecting im going to have to remove material off the back side of the mid plate.
of course you will .
due to the differences between the 426 style engine and the older 354 the fly wheel moves forward. if i remove material off the back of the mid plate it will move the bruno and converter forward. my estimate is around .250 the rear trans support is a ring that slides over the end of the trans so i won't need to make a new one.
The day was spent mocking up everything. I needed to see if the drive snout was going to be the correct length. I needed to check the belt alignment for the alternator. Most things look like they will work. A few things need some tweaking. All the modifications that were performed over the winter work. This is the first time all the pieces were put on the car at the same time. With the big late model in it looks cool. It looks like it retained the proper proportions. I cant wait to turn it loose.
Wowzers. That motor with all the shiny stuff looks great. Does that “broken belt retainer” thing get extended, or is it the correct length?
Could you put in a slightly wider fuel tank up front if you needed to? It looks like the frame for the front cooler could be tweaked a little to allow that (?)
Btc you are correct. The belt guard will need to be extended. The blower is set up on the rear holes for set back right now. Added to this i had to space the upper pulley forward to get the correct alignment with the lower pulley. I have a assortment of pulley spacers of various thicknesses to dial it in. Now i know how its going to be i can make longer pieces on the lathe.
Now that is gear head porn right there I have been lurking and soaking up your great posts all winter . I am looking forward to your summer exploits with this awesome machine.
I had been wondering if you were excited about the new mill, I’d say yes.
And who put their grubby mits on the header?
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my mits. the rust spots come off easily with steel wool. i can't get them coated until the supports are welded on. its all starting to come together.
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh myyyyyyyyyyyy.What a beautiful pile of eye candy.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
So, today I learned... if you want the cops to actually do something when people are stealing from your shop, just have on site nitro storage.
Actually, that might be a very wise plan. Often, property crimes get very low priority.
to busy writing tickets for not having seat belts on .
modern day revenuers. its all about the money.
I organized a small group of racers to bring their cars over for a chassis inspection this morning. A division three NHRA inspector stopped by to do his thing. First they want to know how fast you want to go. Based on that the chassis falls into a specific class of rules. Nhra provides the build specs in the rules book. The faster the chassis the more complicated things get. Placement; size and thicness of the bars are checked. A ultra sound is used to check the thickness. A piece of aluminum with several sized radiuses cut into it is used to check the diameters. The diagram is used to verify proper placement. I was going for a spec-25-1E tag. This would be good up to 6.0 sec. The car passed with no problem. A sticker is then put on the main hoop of the cage. It shows the following info.
Date of certification.
Fastest et allowed.
Its not easy to get a tag to go this fast. You have to construct the chassis correctly. Now the chassis is both nhra and ihra certified.
Only 6.00? haha, that's great that you are maxed out on the safety. I hope you never test that cage.
four times last year i got harassed big time at nhra tracks for not having their chassis tag. several times the track manager or owner got involved. now all bases are covered no matter were i go.
What is the charge for the chassis cert now days?
Thumbs up for the sticker!
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