The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by racer-x, Sep 19, 2015.
Junk n the trunk
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I never had a problem with them in the past. Its a very heavy duty thick part.
Just me lookin from the outside in.
Its not a good pic to see the detail.
I didn't go back in the pics but did that block have all 5 steel main caps? Or just the center 3 ? I bought another 392 block from a guy that used to live in Wisconsin and he said he built your radiator - AutoRad - nice guy. He had a bunch of 392 stuff and didn't really want to part with it but he's 30 minutes away and I talked him out of a block
I'm just wondering if 3 billet center mains and a TR Waters girdle is enough for what I'm doing. You really popped your block. Worries me.
Look closer--the relief is radiused where it counts--there is no stress where it transitions back to the outer surface.
I was looking at this part but as I said just me looking from outside or should say from the key board.
Jimmy walker is from my home town racine wi. I have known jim for 30 years or more. He is a great guy with a 64 dodge altered wheel base car he drives on the street. It been powered by a 392 for as long as i can remember. He builds custom radiators. They are the best.
The center three caps were hot heads. The front was a steel cap that im not sure of its origin. The rear was stock.
The problem with mopars blocks and this includes b; rb and hemi 1st and 2nd gen is the area between the cam and mains. This has always been the weak point. There have been several ways to help support this area. Some work better than others. Steel caps; cross bolts; girdles and the like are all band-aids that dont address the real problem. Dont get me wrong these things do work to a point and are neccesary to making the block live. We just exceeded the limits of what they can do. Detonation; high boost levels and high compression are hard on the bottom end. I would think in your case being injected gas the block should live forever. For a stock block they are tough.
The rods showed up today. They are grp. The length is stock hemi and so is the big end. The small end has been increased to 1.300 for durability. The nitro can pound out the smaller stock size and the larger diameter pin can take more abuse before it bends. The rods are made with a sculpted big end. This is due to the stock cam location and stroker crank.. The big end can hit the lobes of the cam due to their size and angle. Thats why they came out with raised cam blocks. Any time the lift goes over .700 the fit should be checked. Look at the specs closely. They are nothing like specs for steel rods. The bolt stretch is higher than the old rods due to higher quality bolts being used. A torque wrench is a innaccurate way to tighten these bolts. its used only for reference. a stretch gauge is the way to go. Grp will service their rods for free any time i want to send them in. Each rod has the job number engraved on the cap. If i need more all i have to do is give them this number to get exact replacements. These are premium rods machined from plate aluminum.
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They look like jewelry!
im thinking car guy porn.
I'm thinking the price is kind of like buying jewelry too!
Why does the small end have small holes drilled in it. Oil retention?
Im not sure why the pic turned out that way. Holding the rod in my hand i dont see the dots or feel them. Maybe it was a reflection of some sort due to the flash.
Probably an interference artifact, from the pixels in the camera, and the hone marks on the pin bore.
Them sure are pretty, cant wait to get my set. I almost want to buy a extra for wall art.
You going to be able to run that much side clearance on the street?
yes. I have been doing it with the 354 for the last 5 years. I use really good oil pumps.
save your money tony. I just happen to know a guy who could get you one for your wall.
A few of the Hemi racers I know seem to have a bunch of wall hangers.
and a big trophy case. they seem to go well together with a hemi. ha ha
A 354 passenger car block has been located and purchased. Its stock bore. We are full speed ahead now working on both early and late model hemis. Thanks go out to everyone that sent private messages on leads for a block.
Will the early hemi be essentially a copy of the previous one, or are there any changes/upgrades planned?
You just knew that was going to happen, didn't you?
The new 354 engine will not be running nitro. It will be a blown gas engine only. The cam will be installed at 107 instead of 112 to create cylinder pressure. It will only have one distributor. The dual drive will be on the 426. I never maxed out the hp on gas so it will be interesting to see what we can do. Im sure the truck can get into the 8s when we are done. A trip is planned to iowa this weekend to work on the stage five heads. The guides need to be set up for larger stem valves. A higher level or durability will be achieved with bigger stems. Only the highest quality severe duty valves will live in the new engine. We are waiting for the sleeves to show up then we will put it together. We will show how to put a big nitro engine together.
Well that sounds like a hell of a truck, cant wait to see it run. I talked to my uncle in waterloo Iowa, and he said roger, aka, radar (just found that out) was the best engine builder in the country and you are in good hands with him. Cant wait to see you car run this summer.
I cant wait to see your truck next summer. For those that have not figured it out mcmopar aka tony will have the 354 in his truck. Roger and i are helping him out with the engine program. We have put countless hours into this program and feel we have some unfinished buisiness to take care of. We both want to see how much hp the engine make on gas. Im predicting over 800.
Thanks for taking the time to post Brian. This is a very interesting thread!
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Another trip to iowa is in the books. I dropped off the 354 for tony and worked on some of my things. The stage five heads i have were set up with 5/16ths stem valves. This wont work with nitro. We wanted to use 3/8ths stem valves but that would have created a big mess due to the guides becoming too thin. So we went with 11/32 nd stems on the intake and exhaust. All the liners were drilled out then the guides were reamed. Each hole needed to be indicated first. After that new liners need to be installed.
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It takes all day to do a set of heads but its worth it in the end. After that the installed heights were checked out and all of the valve train components were ordered. Going to rogers place is always alot of fun. There is always alot to learn. The place is a serious no b.s. machine shop.
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