The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by racer-x, Sep 19, 2015.
I got the 427. It turned out to be a 427/435 hp three two barrel four speed. There is a seperate thread on that called look what followed me home. Check it out.
The packers season has ended and the racing season has begun. I got the block back Friday from the machine shop. It was ridged honed and decked. It moved right into the family room. The whole block was polished. It took all four quarters of the game to get it done.
I use a ring squaring tool to position the ring one inch below deck. Having the ring square in the bore is critical to a accurate measurement.
The rings were filed during the pre game show. I use a electric ring file to make short work of the job. The indicator makes it so easy to get the gap perfect. Once you use one you will never go back to a hand crank file.
There is alot of ring to file off as I set the gap at .040 I use a ring pack that has a dykes top ring with a two piece second ring. The dykes is a L shaped ring. The cylinder pressure gets behind the ring forcing it against the cylinder wall. It works great in boosted applications. The large gap is needed do to the extreme temps. This large gap is not good on the street. There is alot of blow by without the boost and high temps that close up the gap. The two piece second ring has been the ring to go to because of the street driving. It has really made a difference. Most of the prep work is done. Its almost time to put it together.
Lot of Flitz!!! Looks great
I initially thought that was the 427 polished. 1st, I was mouth agape in horror .. .. then I pulled my head back and laughed maniacally. A polished, numbers matching L71 427.
Once I figured out it was the nitro Hemi block .. I calmed down collectively, with a more subdued .. "oh" .. .. "cool".
I will say that polishing that 427 does no good, in where it is going .. .. but talk about a sub atomic, implosion of Corvette restorers hearts & egos .. that would be fantastic !!!
The nitro Hemi block, of course .. looks b*tch'n' polished. Hell yes !!
I can't imagine how long it took to polish that block. I have only seen one other engine that had a polished block; heads; pan and gear drive. That other engine was used for show only. Its a whole lot of bling to maintain. Good thing Flitz is a local company that provides what I need.
Maybe I will have to chrome the 427 so it can hang with the 426.
Next up to polish the blower and injector. I have to take it all apart to do it correctly. I'm done after that.
Q on the cracked crank. If you can't see the cracks w/o magnafluxing or dyegloing the crank, & it has to be out of the block to do that, & nitro cranks can crack on the 1st pass, how do/did you tell your crank had cracked while still assembled in the mill? Or did I miss that somehow? Seems like russian roulette is safer - but not as exciting or as fun... . Still glad you're posting info n how-to's on your fueling around. Learn something everytime.
Way back when Don Garlits first broke 200mph, I can remember HRM having an article about his blown fuel hemis and he said any hemi that was run on fuel and a blower would fail a magnaflux test with small hairline cracks. Said the way he tested cranks was to suspend iy on a wire, strike it on a counterweight with a hammer and listen to the sound!
Of course in those days the stress on that crank was nowhere near that on a crank in Brian,s engines of today vastly higher output.
I just chose to have it checked out. It has never been magged since I have owned it. Just part of the normal pm. The tapping of the counter weights is still relevant today. If the weights ring thats good. If it's cracked and rings then the crack is not deep. If there is a thud then the crack is deep. A deep crack can be isolated just by tapping. So my crank has a crack and rings now its a question of how deep. The crank is ground .005 then re magged. Sometimes this opens up whats lurking underneath the surface. Decisions are made based on whats found. It can be cut further in a attempt to remove the crack. Once gone the area is spray welded back up to size and recut. Its then off to the nitride shop to return the hardness to the surface. Cranks are repaired like this all the time. The shop thats doing this work has a truck at the nhra races that picks up all the hurt cranks. They fix them and return them at the next race. Its a never ending revolving door.
I'm familiar w/the hammer test for forged cranks. Didn't know it could be done in the mill while still assembled. Thought the crank had to be bare, & hanging from a wire when hit. Just learned something new. Also remember reading Garlits' comments, & wondering why more nitro mills didn't emulate the MagicMuffer fiat "running over my crank trick" . I think some Bonneville guys also made comments like that, although that was after their run-teardowns. IIRC, the Surfers, prior to building their fueler, asked everyone running nitro hemis every Q about longevity of parts. & kept notes. & then put that info to very good use.
I don't suppose the guys rebuilding the crank would comment on how close to disaster the crank was? It seems to me, you've developed a kinda 6th sense on when things need attention.
This is the reason I really like this thread - real-time real-life real-experience feedback. W/o drama. & w/pics... .
Living vicariously thru others doing things I can't. & learning. Thank you again.
The crank has to be out of the block to do the ring test. Sorry for any confusion.
Today's fun. The engine was decked a few thousands to make the deck flat again. Everything moves around a little with these blocks. Its not uncommon for the sleeves to settle a little. The top of the sleeves have a receiver groove for the o ring on the head. Decking the block reduces the groove depth. I needed to restore the depth. There are two options. I could put the block in a mill and index each cylinder then cut them. Or I could get out my trusty iskyderian groove-omatic cutter. This cutter centers in the bore. The center bolt spreads out the four aluminum blocks. The blocks pins rest on the deck.
Greasing the bore before installation helps as its a tight fit for good results. The actual cutters depth is adjustable. I use a magnifying glass to make sure the cutter is exactly in the right spot. the tool has two handles to rotate it. you keep making chips until it bottoms out. I clean the chips off the tool after each cylinder is done. As crude as this tool is it does a remarkable job. Isky sells this tool. It can be returned for a partial refund when your done. Seeing its 3 degrees outside I chose to do the work in my family room.
Pretty neat for sure but the mill cut will hàve (somewhat) less chatter.
Wish I knew about that before building my early hemi fixture for the BHJ groove cutter.
It works perfectly, but obviously a tremendous amount of work comparatively.
The mill will for sure get a smoother cut. Its really not that important as the groove just provides a place for the gasket to go. I couldn't justify a 8 hr round trip to do this job. The pre existing grooves provide a perfect guide making the job easy.
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