Rebal 43 , will hooking up my one wire alt that way work OK or should it be wired up a different way with your 9+3 wiring harness ? I bought my Rebal 9+3 kit when Tug first took over from Glenn . I had spoken with Glenn a few times and told him what I was doing to my 66 Ford and what up grades that I might be doing down the road . So he suggested to get the 9+3 since it was just a few dollar more than the smaller kit that I was looking at . I haven't started rewiring my 55 Ford yet but hope to this winter . I also bought a One wire GM style alt and have it working on my engine test stand right now . I just followed their instructions and they said to just hook the RED wire that is connected to the alt to the Positive post on the battery and that's it . So I will just by pass the alt wiring from my Rebal 9+3 kit and just connect my one wire alt to the battery . I will find out if the alt. will be charging OK when I get the gauges hooked up in the 55 Ford . Thanks for a GREAT wiring kit ! Retro Jim
I purchased a Rebel Wire 14 circut kit, last fall for my '46. The only modification I had to do was for the turn signals, I am running an old style clamp on with the indicator lights and in order to get everything to flash properly, I had to wire in a 3 prong flasher. It wasn't rocket science and to date, I haven't had a lick of problems with it or the rest of the kit. I will use thier kit on the Ranchero and any other future builds, I was impressed with them. Plus they're a Alliance Vendor, don't get much better than that!
So now I am confused and have a pm into dt50chev. I ran the 12 gage from fuse panel to batt post on alt. I ran the separate 10 gage from batt post on starter solenoid to batt post on alt and I can hear a humming noise coming from alt. Where have I gone wrong?
hb32, I clarified a vacuum hose and heater/bypass hose routing with you, three days ago. You have a sbf that you are wiring? Are you installing a RebeL Wire harness? I installed a Rebel Hot Rod 9+3 harness, over 4 mths ago, on my 302/AOD with Pertronix dizzy, in a '36 "Special Construction" roadster. I ran the white 14g excitor wire from the fuse panel to the "I" terminal on the voltage regulator. I ran the Battery cable (+) to the solenoid, and ran the red 10g wire from the fuse panel to the Battery (+), and did not use the ALT Power wire in the plastic bag. I wired my car from scratch. Voltage gauge shows the battery is being charged at 14.2 volts, and goes back to approx 12 volts when charged.
Yes you did Cerberus, appreciate your help and that task is completed. I am using a MSD alternator with a built in regulator. Here is the thread I started on that problem http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731054. Problem as above with they way it is wired.
My Victoria has a rebel kit......had to use customer support they gave me a quick answer to resolve the problem. I would recommend them always.
I found Bob to be the "Electron Genius" at Rebel Wire. He has extensive knowledge about one wire alternators. I think he mentioned he was involved with its inception when designed for marine applications. I found Bob to be a good explainer of how things need to be wired.
It is not unusual to hear a little hum, or I would characterize it as more of a slight whine from the alternator when it is loaded and charging correctly.
I used the 9+3 kit on my old 50 fleetline with out any issues. Can't remember exactly when it came to wiring on what Ratpin mentioned, but i will definitely check the Rebel wire harness i got for the 51.
This has been very confusing and suspect I may have fried my regulator. I have a new replacement and do not want to f it up this time. Alternator is based on a newer CS130D Delco with the internal regulator having 4 taps labeled "P" for stator, "L" for regulator, "I/F" which depending on who interprets, could be field or regulator and "S" for sensor. The Rebel instructions show 3 GM specific schematics, early/late/one wire options. All three show 2 regulator posts labeled 1 and 2, so this is where the confusion arises, how do I identify them in relation to my regulator? Which tap on my regulator should the "alt excitor" wire connect to? In your post you did not use the supplied 10 ga wire from alt post to solenoid. My alternator is suppose to be 100 amps and according to the Rebel instructions, the supplied 10 ga should be used on alternators over 65 amps. I installed a 175 amp mega fuse on this supplied 10 ga wire that I ran per the instructions. The rebel instructions show a connection on the late alternator from the #2 terminal to the alt batt post Old harness or new harness, just as confusing. Here are my instructions. Thanks for your help to date.
I just got off the phone with Bob and he was very helpful. I think I am on the right path after his help and will know in the next few days.
I seem to have a fix at least with the alternator not making noise with the engine off. As per 100% Matt`s suggestion, I called Bob at rebel and here is the fix. 1. Solenoid pwr from panel to batt post on solenoid with a 65 amp fusible link 2. Alt pwr to batt post on alt 3. Extra 10 gage from batt post on solenoid to batt post on alt. I also have a 175 amp mega fuse inline which may be overkill. 3. "S" tap on regulator has a jumper to alt batt post 4. "F" is not used 5. "L" tap connects to excitor wire from fuse panel with a 82 ohm 5 watt resistor inline as I am not running an idiot light. 6. "P" is not used. The SFLP regulator is based on a Delco CS130D alternator. When I initially took the alternator apart, I found that MSD or who ever manufactured it, had the regulator side of the plug wired incorrectly. So between help from Power Master who now repairs the MSD alternator, Bob from Rebel and several HAMB members, looking good Hope this helps some of the confusion out there.
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