The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by REBEL43, Aug 30, 2018.
@REBEL43 need a little help.
@junkyardgenius what ignition light are you talking about?
If it's a one wire alternator, a lot of them don't have a provision for a charge light at all. The reason you can't use an LED and need an incandescent bulb on the others is that the LED doesn't provide enough draw to make the alternator start charging. I just wired a guys 55 Chevy and used an LED for the charge light, because he still has a generator and it doesn't need the draw to charge...but I'm thinking of changing it back to a regular bulb in case he swaps to a GM alternator later.
Make sure you don't have one side of the charge light grounded (you'd think it's hot and ground) but it's actually more like power in and power out (although it gets it's ground side from the alternator really). So you take your regular 2 wire (non grounded housing) bulb and put it inline in the white alternator exciter wire. So the wire comes out of the fuse panel (ACC side) goes into one side of the bulb, comes out of the other side of the bulb and continues on out to the alternator.
Key on- it gets power from the panel and pulls a ground from the alternator...when you fire it up and it's charging it loses it's ground (or backfeeds power from the alternator however you want to look at it) so the bulb goes out. Check it out and see how you've got it wired and let me know.
@junkyardgenius your answer is above. Hope this helps.
Been wiring a guys 55 Chevy on the side after work, actually I was supposed to “clean up the wiring” but I ripped about 90% of it out and put it back new. I left the fuse panel since it was ours and I happen to know the guys that built it, haha. Just wanted to post a couple pictures in case it might help someone out with theirs. Here’s some before pictures
Here’s some pictures along the way
Testing the rear sockets to see which is the turn and tail wires. Bright would be the turn/brake and the dim would be the tail light
put some male and female connectors on the stock turn signal wiring
Made a gauge harness with disconnects so it’s easy to wire on the bench and pull out later if needed, which was needed because the fuel gauge turned out to be bad.
Changed out the stock dash light bulbs to green LED’s, because I just like that old green glow!
I also put connectors on the custom auto sound head unit and speaker wires to make it all serviceable down the road
His kick panel speakers covered the stock dimmer switch so I moved it along with the rubber grommet
Got into the issue that the fuel sender is the stock 0-30ohm sender, but the gauge has an issue where it wants more like 0-60 ohms to get to full. Tested it and ended up ordering a new fuel gauge. Didn’t want to modify the sender in case he ever had to swap it down the road. I've got some videos I'll try to post of how I checked the gauges and sending unit.
got into some testing on the column to find a short, which was blowing the horn continuously. I’ll post more on that later, got to get back to building harnesses for now. Keep in mind that those pictures with the wire hanging out of the dash and running across the firewall are BEFORE I started on it, I'll post more later. I'm adding some courtesy lights under the dash and fixing the gauges right now. Waiting on some parts to come in.
Thanks for looking,
Here's some of the horn wiring I was getting into. The owner had a short in the column somewhere that blew the horn continuously. So my way of thinking...I took my test light and connected the hot lead to a constant hot, and connected the ground lead to the horn relay trigger coming out of the bottom of the column (which lit up my bulb because it was shorted to ground) then I proceeded to take apart the horn ring and column until my bulb went out, meaning I had found my short to ground. Hopefully these videos show up.
This is taking the horn ring apart, starting to find the short
Got a bit of a short still in the housing and maybe column bushing
Think I've got it now. A little insulating and a homemade rubber spacer for the horn ring
This was when I was checking out the fuel gauge. Tested the stock fuel sender with my meter and it checks out at 0-30ohm like it should. At first I just powered and grounded the gauge to make sure it went from empty to full, but upon closer inspection I learned that 0 was empty, but it needed way more than 30 ohms to get it to full.
even tested my resistance box to make sure it was in spec. They say +/- 1ohm and add a little for the test leads, so we're still good there.
I even connected the sender to the gauge, to bypass any possible interference, and the stock (new) 0-30 ohm sender just won't get it there. After all that I was confident in ordering my customer a new fuel gauge from Danchuk. I hate wasting other people's money until I'm sure it's what that need to do. Thanks again for reading all this stuff guys. Maybe it will help someone out.
Jeremy @ Rebel Wire
Thanks Jeremy . Yep I grounded one side of my bulb. Will hopefully sort it at the weekend.
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