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Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by REBEL43, Aug 30, 2018.

  1. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Right, you should be good to go!
     
  2. Looking for the black cloth style wrap, that GM used in the mid 60's. Removed the dashboard, on my '64 Olds tonight. Couple spots need repair.
    Pretty stoked that I was able to get all the windows to function and heater controller too. One bite at a time.
    Really want to throw all my wiring in the trash, but for now will work with a little TLC. Down the road, definitely getting a Rebel Kit.
    Thanks,
    JT
    P,S. did not realize that having parking light and headlamps on was uncool. Glad I'm in the clear on this deal. Olds headlamp switch wired this way too.
     
  3. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    The only wrap we've got is the Techflex F6 braided nylon. You might check out wirecare.com they're pretty reasonable on prices and have a lot of different types of wire loom and wrap. Let me know if you need anything else.
    Thanks,
    Jeremy
     
    jakespeed63 likes this.
  4. stonebystone
    Joined: Oct 2, 2019
    Posts: 4

    stonebystone

    Hello! I am almost done installing a 9+3 harness in my 1967 Ford F100. Everything is working great thanks in part to this excellent thread and several tips I've used on the way. I have questions about hazard flashers. The original wiring diagram shows the switch tied to the turn signals. There is a hazard wire in the new harness and this appears to supply power. I have the correct switch. Should I splice into the turn signal wires? Looks like there's a kit that might work? It's not already wired for flashers is it?
     
  5. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    The Ford hazard switch usually has about 4 terminals on it, 1 for the brown hazard wire coming off the flasher (that's the wire in the kit), and the other 3 are power out of the switch. You would run 3 individual wires from the hazard switch over to the turn signal wiring and splice into the left front, right front, and brake wire (that covers the 2 rears). when you use the switch it just sends flashing power out of the switch and uses the turn signal and brake wiring to get out to the bulbs. Hope that makes sense.
    Let me know if you need any help with it.
    Thanks,
    Jeremy
     
  6. stonebystone
    Joined: Oct 2, 2019
    Posts: 4

    stonebystone

    Makes perfect sense. I'm using similar high quality (SXL) wire from Del City for this kind of addition to the harness. I did something similar by adding a reverse (back-up) light. What's the best power source for this light? I think I came off the alternator exciter wire. Very happy with your product and the help that is available.
    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  7. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    If you use the exciter wire, just put an inline fuse in there. It comes off the accessory bus bar in the fuse panel unfused. Either of the 2 extra accessory circuits in the 9+3 would also work. If you plug in a fuse in the panel, it will make the orange accessory pigtails into a keyed hot that you can use. Either way will work, just make sure it's fused. I'm showing my brother how to wire his 70 F100 with our 16 circuit. He won't let me do it and have all the fun, lol. He wants to learn how to bench test switches, gauges, etc, so I'm showing him what I've learned. Thanks for using our wiring kit, we really appreciate it.
    Thanks again,
    Jeremy
     
  8. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Hey guys, I know this is random, but I got this new tool to play around with and thought it was pretty cool. It's a resistance substitution box. I wanted to be able to play around with different value resistors and might have stumbled onto something to test gauges with

     
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  9. I use a resistor substitution box my Father built and used years ago. It makes checking gauges and trouble shooting gauges and sending units a breeze. It also helps match up sending units and gauges when using a mix of parts a lot easier. Have fun REBEL43. :)
     
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  10. stonebystone
    Joined: Oct 2, 2019
    Posts: 4

    stonebystone

    I looked last night and I misremembered that back-up light connection. It's been tested but remains disconnected. Several years ago, I bought an F600 instrument panel and was going to use some NOS gauges including the ammeter. That's right, I'm forgetful and slow. I made that connection to the exciter wire for the ammeter, but after reading this thread and others it's pretty clear that a voltmeter is a much better choice. The exciter wire is still stubbed out but is not connected.
    Anyway, I bought my Rebel Wire harness some time ago as well and the +3 circuits came uninstalled (it was long enough ago that it included the Wire Reference sheet). It seems like overkill to wire just back-up lights to a separate circuit. Is there a better keyed/fused power source that I could or should use, maybe brake light or wiper power? Also, what is the best 12V power source for the voltmeter? The dash power voltage is regulated, right? Best of luck to your brother, he's got great taste in trucks! :D
    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  11. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Thanks, It kills me that it's at my house and I can't wire it without him there. I did run a heavy ground wire all the way to the back for the lights and told him about it later:D big brother, get you back on track type stuff, lol. Best wire for the voltmeter, just use the red gauge power wire, split off before the cluster voltage regulator, so it's full voltage. The backup lights could come off the wiper power, it's already 14ga and on a 20 amp fuse. You've probably just got a couple 1156 bulbs back there, and they could even go to LED's with an 1156 base (no I didn't say LED on the HAMB:eek:) for even less draw and brighter reverse lights. If you ever wanted a charge light in the dash you could use the exciter wire for that, unless it's a 1 wire alternator, they usually won't work a light. Just let me know if you need anything else on it.
    Thanks again,
    Jeremy
     
  12. stonebystone
    Joined: Oct 2, 2019
    Posts: 4

    stonebystone

    That's exactly how I'll route the power and I know how you feel. I'd love to work on my project more, but that dang "making a living" thing keeps getting in the way! I'm actually using some small LED's in the gauge panel. Should last forever. Very cool that these are available. It's not a 1-wire so I'll keep that in mind about the charge light. Really appreciate the help and I'll probably need more before it's all done.
     
  13. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    We changed out the dash lights in Bob's 71 C10 here a while back. Probably the same bulbs and plastic holders. All I did first was go over the printed circuit board and mark the + and - on the board, to make sure I turned the LED's the right way. Sounds good, let me know how it all goes
     
  14. Phil55Kratz
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    Phil55Kratz
    Member

    I just Got the 6 volt Kit from ya for my Model A . I’m running a flathead v8 with a generator with the cutout on top. And I have the original style key ign. Switch in the original location. And a push button to crank it. I’m a little confused s where the coil wire (pink), the ign sw ( purple) ign sw (orange) and the power wire (red) wires should go. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    Here’s what I have . The button, the key switch, and the starter solenoid.

    Also where’s the dizzy get power from the coil?

    Sure I should know better but I had it all wired just like a model a was wired and it worked fine but I wanted to have a better fused set up and be able to hide it better along with using different light sw etc. thanks for any help!

    Also I greatly appreciate you getting the kit out right away!
    Phil


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  15. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Phil,
    You'll have to combine some of the wires on the ignition switch. When you turn on the key, you'll need to hot the orange ignition, pink coil.....and purple start wire (if your start button is a 2 wire button and a hot triggered solenoid). The start button wiring depends on if its a hot or ground triggered solenoid. Let me know and we'll get it wired!
    Thanks,
    Jeremy
     
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  16. Phil55Kratz
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    Phil55Kratz
    Member

    Thank you


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  17. Phil55Kratz
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    Phil55Kratz
    Member

    Now that I think of it the solenoid I just had a ground wire and the button broke the circuit.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  18. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 403

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    I suspect that button "made" the circuit, i.e. connected the solenoid to ground.
     
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  19. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Probably a ground triggered solenoid. They both look pretty much the same. I've got one on my Studebaker, using the floor button to send a ground to engage it.

    If it's ground triggered, you can use the purple start wire and run it from ground, to the button, out of the button to the solenoid. If it's self grounded in the dash, you'll only need the single wire from the button to the solenoid. There's all kinds of ways to do it, just gotta know what the parts want and are capable of
     
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  20. Phil55Kratz
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    Phil55Kratz
    Member

    Gotcha thanks! I’ll check it out!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  21. Phil55Kratz
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    Phil55Kratz
    Member

    Yeah your right hah


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    TrailerTrashToo likes this.
  22. Been painstakingly restoring my Oldsmobile dashboard, piece by piece.
    Cluster is all done, but want to switch all the 194 peanut bulbs to LED
    Plus the holders are all garbage
    Found some kits on eBay but don’t seem to be the right size.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  23. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 403

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    Peanut bulb holders come in different designs/diameters. I ran into that problem maybe 30 years ago. The holders from the parts store were smaller than the hole in the printed circuit board. All the holders in my junk box were about 0.6" in diameter - and most of them were missing a lock tab...
     
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  24. Trailer Trash too, Exactly!! All this stuff has become so fragile, over the years. I've got another cluster, but once again, it's components are from '64 too. Part of all this work, right now, is so I an put all this stuff back together and forget about ever touching it for awhile. Removing the dash on a '64 Olds 98 is much more difficult than a '32 For Hot rod.
    Just fired up the coffee pot and am about to tackle the clock.
    JT
     
  25. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 403

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    Jake,

    You got me trying to retrieve 30+ year old memories - The Rockauto trick helped, I looked up Instrument panel lamp socket.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...b+&+socket,instrument+panel+lamp+socket,21404

    They list both 1/2" hole and 5/8" hole - Even Rockauto is not sure what size to use. At least we now know that Acdelco, Standard Motor Parts and WVE/ Airtex/Wells makes replacement parts. Once you figure out the Olds dash hole size, you can use the part numbers at local stores...
     
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  26. BINGO!!!!! Just ordered 10
     
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  27. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 403

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    p.s. The dimmer function on your light switch will not give much, if any, dimming with LED bulbs. Basically, the current draw of a LED bulb is much smaller than an incandescent bulb. The series resistance of the dimmer control does not significantly reduce the voltage to the LEDs.
     
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  28. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Looks like you guys got it. That's what I usually do, is measure the hole size, then just search for a bulb socket for that hole size. Make sure on your LED's to look at the + and - side of it and turn them all the right way, positive to positive and negative to negative on your printed circuit board
     
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  29. ramrod2624
    Joined: Dec 19, 2006
    Posts: 645

    ramrod2624
    Member

    Question on a painless kit. I’m having problems trying to troubleshoot a non functioning horn
    Fuse is good and has power on both sides the fuse block has a built in relay. If I’m correct I should have power on 30/51 . If I don’t where can I be losing the power?
    Or what should I be checking for?
     
  30. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 669

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    There should be power on 30 and 86 (depending on how they wired the relay) I always us 86 as the hot trigger and 85 as the ground trigger, but some companies swap them around. It really doesn't matter unless you're splicing multiple triggers together, then they need to stay the same. But anyway, lol, you should have power on them, 85 would be the ground trigger coming from the horn button, and 87 would be power out to the horn (87 and 30 get swapped around sometimes too).

    If you have power on 30 and 86, I would make sure you're getting a ground to 85 when you push the horn button, that is what closes the contacts on the relay. You could also use a jumper wire from 30 to 87 and see if the horn blows, bypassing the relay and testing the rest of the wiring. Sorry for the long response, there's just different ways to see what's going on.
     
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