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Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by REBEL43, Aug 30, 2018.

  1. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Only the power wires go to the fuse panel. Most wires just run from switches out to lights, or sending units to gauges, etc. So for the headlight switch, only the switch power needs to come from the panel. The rest of the wires (park, tail, dash, dimmer switch) run from the switch out to the lights and dimmer switch
     
  2. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    No problem Larry, I'll work on it. Thanks again
     
  3. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Only about 5 wires running to the rear on most. Tail light, left and right rear turn, fuel sender, and 3rd brake (which you probably wouldn't need and could cut short). Tail lights split off left and right and to a license plate, but the rear is usually simple, as far as the whole job goes
     
  4. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 25,397

    The37Kid
    Member

    Well that puts me back at square one, all these years I thought there was only one power wire that ran form the battery some how. :( Bob
     
  5. VI Lonewolf
    Joined: Sep 2, 2017
    Posts: 6

    VI Lonewolf

    Looks clean. What did you use on the "t" joint?
     
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,515

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Easy loom sells a self sealing thin rubber wrap that basically seals to itself when wrapped and stretched without any adhesive.
    The stuff really works. It's available through places like Summit.
    I found some almost identical stuff called Magic wrap that works really well too for a cheaper price.

    Just wrap the loom T joints with that stuff and it bonds to itself and makes everything clean and secure.
     
    Shadow Creek and REBEL43 like this.
  7. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,515

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    It’s pretty obvious from these and other posts that Bob is electrically challenged or just plain intimidated. :D

    Bob, while I can empathize with you on the confusion when you look at a whole pile of wires I can tell you that it’s not that hard.

    Just get yourself a kit and go at it.
    Like anything else you can learn as you go. :D
     
    REBEL43 likes this.
  8. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 25,397

    The37Kid
    Member

    You have far more courage than I do, and a beautiful T that you built from scratch. Every electrical question I've seen posted on the HAMB has two different answers, I see no reason to loose any of my projects if I follow the wrong advice. Best wishes.


    Bob
     
  9. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,515

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks Bob, I think the reason for the 2 answers thing is because like many other things there are multiple ways to make something work.
    Some ways are better than others, I choose to use advice from my local experienced friends who have built cars for many years along with help from good vendors like Rebel.
     
    REBEL43 likes this.
  10. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 25,397

    The37Kid
    Member

    Glad that is working out for you, I'm years away from really worrying about it but would like to have the frame set up to accept the wire if the Grandkids or next guy want to finish things. Bob
     
  11. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Here's the short answer. There's a main power wire that runs from the battery and feeds the fuse panel (constant hots) and the ignition switch. Then wires that run from the ignition switch to feed the keyed hot fuses on the panel. So your fuse panel has both constant and keyed hots now. Then the power wires come off the fuse panel and feed things like (headlight switch) (turn signal flasher) (brake switch) (gauges)... Then those switches control and send power out to other places. It's all just power in and out... controlled by switches... ultimately searching for a ground.

    If you really want to get your underwear in a twist, think about if it flows from positive to negative or negative to positive, and the fact that with a hot wire laying around, with no ground present..that wire really isn't hot. When doing positive ground tech, I just started saying body side or fuse panel side when referring to the wires But the good part is....you don't have to know or even think about any of this to wire most cars! When doing paint work, you wouldn't test the chemical makeup of some thinner or filler. You'd accept that it is what it says it is, and probably don't need to be a chemical engineer to spray paint, even though there are chemical reactions taking place. I'm just guessing as I'll admit this is a skill I haven't perfected The point is the more research you do, the more confused you're going to be most times, trust me. I do it all the time and have to weed out most of it until I find enough overlap to satisfy my curiosity, or test it myself
     
  12. Not much of a harness to run the engine; three wires besides the battery cable. This one is nicely color coded and long enough to reach inside the car so it can drive.
    engine wires.jpg
     
  13. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 25,397

    The37Kid
    Member

    I see way more that three wires that are the same color. I'll forever be in the dark electrically. :(


    Bob
     
  14. Fear not! A test lite will shed light upon you if you try.
     
  15. Maybe looks that way cause it is curled up; but really only three wires connected to the switch; one 10 ga battery power, one 12 ga to the starter solenoid, and one 16 ga running to the ignition.
     
  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,515

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Hey Jeremy, I sent you a message, I think you can add a piece of yellow headlight power wire to my package.
    Standing by.
    Thanks Larry
     
  17. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    It's packed up and about to ship out Larry, Thanks again!
     
    Blue One likes this.
  18. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,782

    CGkidd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well reading this post helps answer my question on which harness I am going to buy. Rebel43 u are straight forward on answering questions and looks like a good harness. I will be contacting you soon to order a harness for my 46 Chev.

    Sent from my E6910 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  19. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    Sounds good, hope you found some useful information on here. If you need anything just let me know.
     
  20. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 272

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    CGkidd, you won't be disappointed. I used their 9+3 harness on my '51 Ford sedan and I'm very happy with the result. BTW, I'm just up the road from ya in Skagit County. See ya on the road or at the shows!
     
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  21. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 579

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Called Jeremy last Wednesday just before Memorial Day weekend to see if he had a 8 circuit 6 volt kit in stock for my '46 Mordor Mercury. Said he would have one ready for me by early Friday afternoon. Friday comes and I drive the 22.9 miles to the address out in the middle of some of the most beautiful country you'll ever see. At one o'clock, I'm sitting in his driveway when he pops out of the door asking if I'm there for the 6 volt kit. When I go inside, the place is a model of efficiency. There are boards everywhere with new wire looms in different stages of build. There are several orders boxed up ready to go and Jeremy has just called UPS for a pick up. Friday afternoon and a holiday weekend and the orders are going out. For a two person business, Jeremy and Bob get a lot of work done without seeming to be in a hurry. They took the time to explain what they do and how and it just seems to make sense. When I wire my '27 T, it'll be another 22.9 mile ride to Rebel Wire.
     
    REBEL43, slim38, RICH B and 1 other person like this.
  22. @REBEL 43. I have a dumb question. I am starting to wire the hot rod with my new 9+3 and decided to add a 3rd brake light. (It’s a traditional fixture tho!). If I use an 1156-type replacement LED, do I need to do anything special with resistance or wiring??

    This won’t be a turn signal or taillight; it is only a 3rd brake light and I am using the wire designated by the harness for this purpose.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    REBEL43 likes this.
  23. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,135

    pprather
    Member

    Third brake LED should work fine with no special accommodation.

    Phil
     
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  24. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 272

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As long as it is a 12v bulb, you will be fine.
     
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  25. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 648

    REBEL43
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TENNESSEE

    All good advice from everyone here. Since it's just a brake light you don't have to worry about resistance (since it won't flash, just burn solid) and since it's an LED the 18ga 3rd brake light wire in the kit will be fine to use to power it
     

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