There are so many different wishbones, the best being the 35-36 Ford which have the integral spring mounts and mount to the rear axle housing with simple full round oval brackets or just a simple half oval over the top meeting the mounting points fore and aft on each side.
Here is a stock 35 to 36 setup. You should be able to see that plate welded to the axle tubes that was mentioned. These are the strongest Ford bones, but you still need at least one upper torque arm if used with an open driveshaft rear end setup. The plate does not need to go all the way around the tube with a different rear end. Just make a C shape 1/2" thick plate welded to the bottom half. Split? Don't bring the front of the bones out to the frame rails because as the car twists over uneven roads, the bones or the axle tubes will crack. It will fail in time. It's been done for years but it will fail.
I first stumbled across the HAMB a few years ago searching the same question through Google. This idea from Nimrod was the first of my burgled ideas. He had cut off the rear cast mounts from the back of the wishbones and holesawed through the tubes to slip a section of pipe from side to side. With the pipe tacked in place, he tapped the top and bottom around the back of the pipe and welded it all together. This creates a single bushing hole and the lower bones can be used as part of a 4 link setup. Due to the length of the lower links, the upper links needed to be too long to orient them from the center of the rearend outward. A Satchel link design is the same as a 4 link but with the upper bars reversed. Reversing the upper bars allowed for the extra length needed to maintain proper geometry. My mounting brackets are homemade but I have seen the same thing sold through the Welders Series, I believe. The result is the look of split wishbones but the functionality of a 4 link rear. My car is not on the road yet, so I can't comment on how it rides. Here's what my setup looks like.
On this type of set up do you think you would need a pannard bar to stalblize the side to side movement?
Not if they are triangulated as they were that way stock. I tried to push the rear end side to side while the back of the chassis was in the air and it wasn't happening.
Thanks guys. I already have a set of '35-'36 bones. I have thought about some type of four link set up w/them. Should be starting this project about June.
It's the transverse spring...not the triangulation of the arms. Run regular coil springs (or any other type of spring and you will need a Panhard bar or some other form of side to side location.
the later ones did have them on them. so im assuming if you had a hard enough corner the leaf perches would sway a bit. it pretty much relies on spring tension to center the rear end. so yes i would say YES, but do you NEED it, no.