Hi guys, I've combed thru a lot of good post but couldn't find exactly what I needed to know as most of the pics were from above or in front. I picked up a 35 ford rear with radius rods ill be running in my t. If I do split the bones and move them out just a couple inches will I have to install a set of spring perches on axle housing and discard the original 35's that were made to radius rods or can I just weld new radius mounts on axle housing and use a little narrower spring?
Don't think you'd be asking this question if you were retaining the torque tube, so I'd say that you cannot use the radius rods at all. They are not strong enough to retain the rear axle without the torque tube helping out. Probably the easiest thing to do is graft split front wishbones on the '35 mounts.
Yes I was thinking of splitting them for an open drive setup but just barely. If the only advantage of open drive is easier to work on & getting parts etc ill just stay with the torque tube & Unsplit setup. I just figured it would be easier to mount them split with heims than trying to mount the ball setup.
They are not welded together, so they are already split. I'm turning mine into a "wishbone" by welding a yoke on to the radius rods. Making it into a single triangle. I'm also going to have to use a torque arm to simulate the torque tube. Similar to this idea. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=677460&fb_source=message
The '35 driveshaft and torque tube are too long for a model T, so you will need to shorten them or convert to open drive. The '35-'36 rear wishbones actually are plenty strong to run without the torque tube. '35 and '36 are the ONLY years that are strong enough.
I have the stock 35 rear spring but I don't mind buying whatever I need. I'm probably going to get car fairly low so I may end up having to go open drive, not slammed just a good low stance. I figured I'd have to end up shortening torque tube, ill be on a model a wheelbase.
You can use the bones as you intend, but add a torque arm to handle the moment force from the rear axle twist. Easy peasy.
You never said what transmission that you planned to run, but if it's an early ford??? then go with the torque tube. If you plan to run a later transmission with an open driveshaft??? then split the rear radius rod's, heat and align the rear spring perches and use your stock spring. As for a torque arm??? although many have ran without one, it's good insurance to have one. The Hot Rod Works makes a neat setup that you may want to check out before you fab up your own. Before I decided to upgrade to a 9", I had pretty much planned to go this route...
The rear radius rods are bolted on to the torque tube. They are already split. I'm going to have to shorten mine about 24" to work on my modifiedv (my frame is shortened about 10". Even with a stock length Model A frame, they would have to be shortened. If you use a Bronco 9" rear axle with a Model A or T rear Spring there isn't a lot of room to mount the rods between the backing plates. Member Pinewood sells some nice laser cut mounts for hanging them on the axle and placing them.