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Rear panhard ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by QMOTOX, Jul 30, 2008.

  1. QMOTOX
    Joined: Jun 8, 2008
    Posts: 89

    QMOTOX
    Member
    from STL, MO

    I did a search and read a lot of past post didn't really find a conclusive answer.

    I got the 4-link and panhard bar in my tudor sedan this past weekend. The more I look at the panhard bar I think I could do something better but I'm not sure which way to go. I was hoping you guys had some ideas.

    The way it is set up now the panhard runs downhill to the rearend. Ive seen other setups like this so a assume its kinda OK. Also the way it is now the bar clears the center section at full uptravel. Should I fab a longer bar and move the rearend mount farther to the passenger side. Let me know what you guys think. The picture was taken with the rearend at ride height.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. 37FABRICATION
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 672

    37FABRICATION
    Member

    You want the panhard or 'trac' bar level at ride height if possible. The way yours is set up assuming that it is at ride height, you will get some rearend movement to the passenger side of the car as it cycles up. Still assuming this is your set height, I would either make the bracket on the rearend side higher or drop down the frame side. Remember, the longer the bar is, the less side to side movement you will get also.

    edit

    I would recommend making the panhard bar longer so that the rearend side bracket is as close as possible to your passenger side four-link bracket.
     
  3. 37FABRICATION
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 672

    37FABRICATION
    Member

    Here's an example of one I built recently. I used all the available room between framerails for the trac bar. If the frame is wider such as yours, use that space to your advantage and make a longer trac bar.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789

    Glen
    Member

    ditto....good advice. Drop that mount to the bottom of that frame rail.
     

  5. duwty
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 64

    duwty
    Member

    why not run a triangulated 4 link instead of parallel?
    wouldnt have to worry about panhard bar then
    and wouldnt have to worry about the rearend pulling from left to right throughout its travel

    the panhard bar definately should be level at right height
    not a big deal just weld a couple of tabs onto the frame that are angled down and reattach your panhard bar
     
  6. 37FABRICATION
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 672

    37FABRICATION
    Member

    Looking closer at your pic, if there is only one bracket on one side of your rod ends (heims), then you need double up. One on each side with the heim bolted between. Highly recommended.
     
  7. QMOTOX
    Joined: Jun 8, 2008
    Posts: 89

    QMOTOX
    Member
    from STL, MO

    Thanks for the help. It's nothing I can't fix with a cut off wheel and some time at this point. I can't move the frame bracket to under the frame rail because that is where I had planned to put the rubber bump stops at. I'll make a double sided bracket to move the frame side down some and another new double sided bracket probably taller and move it over to the passenger side more. I should be able to get the bar paralell at ride height and still clear the center section at full compression.
     
  8. blackmopar
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 481

    blackmopar
    Member
    from fallbrook

    agreed, fab a new rear housing mount that is taller and relocate closer to the pass side

    all in all looks great though! just curious, what is the X accomplishing besides some extra weight?
     
  9. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,032

    Retrorod
    Member

    Here's one I built. at ride height the bar is horizontal...and it's on double shear brackets. The car handles well.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. HanibleH20
    Joined: Jan 17, 2004
    Posts: 139

    HanibleH20
    Member

    The center of your panhard is your rear roll center point. With the angle in your bar and at that height you will really be be promoting body roll when turning left, which is great if your trying to get around a dirt track, not so good on a cloverleaf. That is close to the angle I run on my race car to promote body roll and rear steer. On the street lower, longer, and flatter is always better. I also agree that both mounts should be in double sheer!
     
  11. Ahmen to everything above...
    HORRAAY! A straight post with good info and no bullshit!
     

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