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Technical Rear hairpin/ ladder bar questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ol'stinky, Mar 30, 2019.

  1. ol'stinky
    Joined: Oct 3, 2010
    Posts: 258

    ol'stinky
    Member
    from New Jersey

    I have been wanting to use a Pete and Jakes style triangulated ladder bar setup in my ever evolving first build, but I found some stuff at a swap meet today and I was wondering if it would work. I got a pair of 35" rear ladder bars and a dropped crossmember. If I were to get axle brackets, front rod ends and clevises, would this be a usable setup. I've seen similar on here before, basically I just want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  2. If those are all 3/4" thread; they should be pretty beefy. I think those Speedway brackets put the bars too high on the axle. Maybe take a look where Pete & Jakes brackets locate the bars. More importantly check the center to center distance of the bars once you have clevises in place with jam nuts and about 1/4" of thread showing. You may have to make your own brackets; nothing that can't be accomplished with a piece of 3/8"plate and a torch.
    Edited to say 3/8" plate
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
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  3. ol'stinky
    Joined: Oct 3, 2010
    Posts: 258

    ol'stinky
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Ok thanks for the tip. I wish a knew who made the bars a have so I could get the right stuff for sure.


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  4. The Pete & Jakes ladder bars are the cat's arse, I used them on my Deuce pickup and I plan on using them again on my next Deuce project. HRP

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. I don't know why those won't work. One thing: The 32 chassis usually uses a straight cross member [no dip, see HRP's photo] while the 33-34 cars used the "dip" cross member like yours. If you don't mind it sticking down a little, go for it!
     
  6. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,469

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I think you have a good start. If I'm not mistaken Bob Drake has threaded bungs for the 4 Bar Rod Ends. Copy Primers chassis and you can't go wrong strong and leaves plenty of room for the exhaust.
     
  7. They could be made by anyone, pretend the guy's name was joe and he worked for someone.
    Now Measure the threads in the bars or drag the bars to the nearest bolt store
    and order the parts, you're on the right path.
     
  8. ol'stinky
    Joined: Oct 3, 2010
    Posts: 258

    ol'stinky
    Member
    from New Jersey

    That's the plan.



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  9. ol'stinky
    Joined: Oct 3, 2010
    Posts: 258

    ol'stinky
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Thanks for input guys, just a couple more questions. Do you have a preference of bushing material? I see some use nylon and some use poly urathane. Also, it seems like all the brackets I find for the rear are 3/8" plate. Is that thick enough or should I track down some 1/2" ones?


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  10. 3/8" brackets are fine; wasn't thinking right when I said 1/2" earlier; my mind was on drilling out the 3/8" holes in the clevises to a larger size, 7/16" at least.
     
  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,690

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Will those swap meet bars allow the proper size clevises? Hard to tell the tube ID from here. Don't go too small.

    I do know the P&J bars are longer than yours, but can't give an exact measurement right now.
     
  12. Gasolinefed
    Joined: Apr 17, 2018
    Posts: 105

    Gasolinefed
    Member
    from OR

    My thought is they appear to be shorter than pete and jakes bars.. when it comes to ladder bars the longer the better.. forces the rear end to roll less for a given amount of movement which equals less bar flex and depending on the set up can lead to a better ride.. mileage may very obviously..
     
  13. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,528

    pprather
    Member

    Photo of Pete & Jake's bars
    15532875279791645996367.jpeg

    Phil
     
  14. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 5,997

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    I've done 100's of chassis with the P&J ladder bar rear setup both with a buggy spring suspension and coilovers with no problems to date. I like their rear axle brackets as they give more clearance and the full circle weld draws the rear evenly. I know your on a budget but suspension is not the place to cut corners.
     
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  15. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 3,370

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    The only thing I don't like is the single shear mounting on the rear and relative to why they make a single shear at the rear and double shear at the front package. I would rather have a double shear in the event of a crack at the rear mount but that's just me.
     
  16. Relic Stew
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,119

    Relic Stew
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Weld them so the holes are vertically in-line, and they're pretty much the same as P&J.
    Untitled.jpg
     
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,690

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Without the rest of the bracket around the back of the housing. That whole circle around the housing adds strength, but also allows the housing to have the same heat affected zone for 360 degrees. Less warping, less tearout.
     
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  18. I can see the why of a double shear on the axle (as well as the front) in a moving joint on a straight or triangulated four bar; but on a rigid ladder bar connection the clevis over a heavy steel bracket is more than satisfactory (as long as you know how to weld).


    When we use shop fab ladder bars and Speedway brackets we need to put a bend in the top tube to drop the bars for floor clearance; not the case with a P&J set-up install. Must just be enough difference.
    ladder bar bend.jpg
     
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