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Technical Rear end setup on my ‘48

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by boy_named_sue, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. boy_named_sue
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 120

    boy_named_sue
    Member
    from Dayton, OH

    I’ve got good bottom plates coming that have shock mounts on them. I’m thinking I’m just gonna cut off that crossmember.

    Question: where/how should I make the top mounts? Any pictures of how you guys have your shocks mounted if the bottoms are on the spring plates? Pictures would certainly help


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  2. How much is the pinion rotated upward? Looks like a bunch from the photos.
     
  3. boy_named_sue
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 120

    boy_named_sue
    Member
    from Dayton, OH

    At rest, or under load? “Too much” is likely to be the answer regardless, but at this point I don’t actually know because I haven’t measured yet


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  4. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 3,560

    Mart
    Member

    Forgive, me, I haven't read every thread, but i had an f100 once that rode terribly on the front. It turned out that the front shocks were too long and were bottoming out. You might have that same problem.

    Take the shocks off and bounce on the bumper. See if it all frees up. If it does, I would suspect that rather than shorter shocks, you need lower lower shock mounts. Some shocks with the right travel, and bottom mounts to suit.

    Sorry if this has already been covered.

    Mart.
     
  5. The springs are allowing wrap-up, so that the pinion hits floor. Traction bar, or cal-tracs will stop that. My buddy built some cal-trac clones to install on his father in laws 47 sedan, and that stopped the wrap, and helped plant the tires.
     
  6. boy_named_sue
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 120

    boy_named_sue
    Member
    from Dayton, OH

    Cool got any pics?


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  7. Only picture I have, it shows the front of the Cal-trac pivot. Should be able to find plans online for them. calt.jpg
     
  8. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,144

    GearheadsQCE
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don't know if you have decided what to do about your rear springs. I just finished doing all the things suggested above to a set of stock springs. Made 1 3/4" spring perches, special u-bolt plates. Rearched the springs and reversed the spring eyes etc. etc.
    Then I saw these:
    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Super-Glide-1937-39-Chevy-Rear-Spring-Reverse-Eye,184267.html

    At $80 ea. you can have modern springs, use readily available spring perches and lower plates.
    You would have to fab up front spring mounts and shackles. Still way under $700 for a kit.

    I may trash all my stuff and start over.
     
  9. The stock Chevy springs will break under acceleration load, check into P
    osies. drive it till they break.
     
  10. Your rear springs are already "S: shaped , they won't last too long, I broke several.
     
    bobss396 and gimpyshotrods like this.
  11. boy_named_sue
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 120

    boy_named_sue
    Member
    from Dayton, OH

    I actually found a local spring shop that may be cheaper still if I go that route. My progress is slow as always, but that’s why I appreciate you guys putting ideas and links and pics up here. Thanks for the tip. You’re speaking my language with a less-than-$700 idea.


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  12. boy_named_sue
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 120

    boy_named_sue
    Member
    from Dayton, OH

    I looked up the Posies kit for my car, at $500 it’s definitely a better deal than the other kit I looked at. Thanks for the tip. Ultimately I love the idea of a whole brand new setup, but will come down to what I can afford to pull off. Got a couple of local rodders around here willing to help, and spare parts laying around, so might need to make do with what we’ve got for now.

    Lower shock mounts on the plate will get them lower than they are, still looking for ideas of how to mount the uppers. Anyone got a car like mine so I can see how yours look? And I’ve heard that they shouldn’t lean forward like they were. But maybe inward toward the center of the car?


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  13. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,144

    GearheadsQCE
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My original idea was to have my local spring shop make new ones for me. Been buying them their since 1966. Went to order them and was told that the old guy that made them died and no one else was going to do it. They couldn’t even order stock replacement springs.
    If you do get custom springs made, one thing I would suggest;
    Mock up your rear with the wheels centered in the opening and have the center bolts placed accordingly in the new springs.
    Leave some arch in the leaves or they won’t be able to flatten out and swing the shackles .


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  14. Try McVeigh's for springs, good guys to talk with on the phone. On eBay, he is "springking". I got a new set for my '59 Ford, shot some paint on them and installed 'em. Good prices too. You need to select a spot to hang the shocks up top. Even if you pay to have it done, it will be worth it.
     
  15. boy_named_sue
    Joined: Apr 9, 2006
    Posts: 120

    boy_named_sue
    Member
    from Dayton, OH

    You’re right, any ideas? Previously had a square tube crossmember welded in, but that’s what the rear ended was hitting when flexing and both old rodders who looked at it in person said “all wrong, cut it out”. I’ve heard of mounting shocks in the trunk, or maybe some bolt-on deal to the frame? Would love to see some options of what others have done.


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