The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MainProp, Sep 23, 2012.
gonna start installing parts today as everything has arrived. I noticed that on top of the spring i removed the was a thick rubber spacer/damper wired to top of spring is this stock?
Yes. The rubber isolator is stock. Transfer that to the new coil and you're all set.
did you secure it like it was on old spring? mine was wired on.
Nah. I just placed it on top of the coil and slipped the whole thing up into the pocket and supported it with the lower a-arm and jack beneath it. No problems.
This thread is incredibly helpful, thanks man!
cool! thanks for the info!
Thanks for the write up! Planning on dropping my fordor and still doing the research on it, I will be keeping this in mind since I'm sure I won't always be riding solo...great looking shoebox, I am planning on doing the same to my '49...Thanks again!
Quick question. Did you cut your driveshaft tunnel for additional travel?
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Daddio211- I did not raise my driveshaft tunnel. With my 3" JAMCO rear leaf springs, homemade 3" blocks and stock bump stops, there is about 3/4" travel before the rear-end housing touches the bump stops. Not a lot of travel, but the contact is pretty mild going down the road. The travel limitation prevents the need for raising the driveshaft tunnel. When I c-notch the rear, allowing the rear-end to travel more, I suspect that will require raising the tunnel because I'm pretty close right now.
My plan for the future is a mild c-notch and 4" blocks. When I do that I have a Maverick rear-end waiting to go in as well.
And you're all welcome! I am stoked that people can and are using this info, it means I'm not wasting my time.
one side done and will be doing other side tonight as it's 95 degrees right now and i don't need a sunburn and heat stroke. All you youngsters that are gonna do this "EAT YOUR WHEATIES" before you start! I used a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and a piece of angle iron 12" long to compress spring and here is a thought: i would find some 7/16" bolts as long as i could find to help align the lower control arm to the hole in k-member that you unbolted to remove spring. i would have broken it apart at lower end of spindle but that bolt wasn't gonna come out today and i don't have enough heat to loosen it up. The price we pay to look cool!
thats one very good looking ford. i don't think the new stance hurt a thing. i like the fender well sitting right on top of the white wall like that.
This helps my planning TREMENDOUSLY! Sounds like I'll wait to mod my driveshaft tunnel for when I do the interior.
Has a great stance now.
Are those the kustom kraft dummy Appleton's or the real deal? They look so much better than the average dummy spots.
Thanks MainProp, mine does look just like that, I am going to give a try. I'm just down the road from you in Marin. I'll look for your car on the road, very nice looking.
Great post! Anyone here tried using these Aerostar coils on a 57 Ford? I've got a 57 Ranchero that could use a couple inches out of the ride height...
just finished the install and it dropped 2.5"!
I would recomend using a piece of 1/2 threaded rod with 12" piece of angle iron threade through the shock mount to compress springs during the R&R process, safety first!
Mainprop.....As you said...."my Shoebox doesn't look as cool". Ya I would have to agree with you..........it looks cooler now then before.
55 dude- That lower upright pivot bolt on the a-arm is THREADED into both the upright and both sides of the lower a arm. Remove the cotter pin, unscrew the castle nut, loosen the pinch bolt on the upright, then, you back the large pivot bolt out by unscrewing ityou can't beat it out.
When you drop the spring out with a hydraulic jack under the a-arm with the lower, outer pivot bolt removed, it comes out really easy and safely. I can't speak for the safety of unbolting the a-arm from the frame side. That sounds like it could get hairy. No matter what method anyone chooses, always do what you can to be safe.
And remember, this modification is going to require you to adjust your camber and your toe.
Those spots are the real deal Appleton S-552's. No dummy's on, or in, my rides.
And thanks again for the comments!
MainProp I didn't realize that the shaft connecting spindle to lower control arm was threaded but after i removed the nut and it didn't move i figured it was frozen so not having my torches here i put the nut back on and unbolted the lower control arm from crossmember, not the method prefered but method chosen. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?groupid=110&pictureid=417549 this picture shows how tight the front end was as it actually dug groove in frame with bolt that connects spindle to upper control arm. now upper control arm has 2" of clearance, 1/2" above the new bumpstops i installed and lower control arms sit near level. If you check out my albums you can see all the before and after of the suspension mods.
Great post, thank you!
Hudsoncustom: It sounds like the coils should work for your`57 from some of the responses.
Crease: You're very welcome.
JeffSled: I like your signature, and thanks!
Im completely new to the old ford scene and ive been searching to lower my 58 Ford Country Sedan Wagon, so im guessing this cheap method would work!!
I popped in late on the thread but it's good info for guys who want to drop their Fords and it won't break the bank in the process.
On the shock number: any decent parts counter person should be able to cross the
Monroe number over to a different brand and you shoud be able to do it on the Napaonline,O'reilly or Autozone web sites.
Can i use the same shock # for the front of a 58 country sedan wagon?
By what some other folks have said, I believe so.
This may be a little O/T, but is that front fender trim from a '50 Ford? The rest of it looks like '51. If it is, it matches pretty well.
Yup. The headlight bezels and side trim is all 1950. The chrome beneath the rear window has been removed, and there is no wrap-around chrome trim in the back like a normal 51.
I think it looks cleaner.
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