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Projects RainierHooker's '38 Buick Special Business Coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RainierHooker, Dec 27, 2011.

  1. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    I was shooting into the sun on the first two pics, so the contrast is a bit wonky. The last pic is close to the true color of the car (sun directly overhead).
     
  2. Jason_C
    Joined: Jul 30, 2012
    Posts: 22

    Jason_C
    Member

    Nice Buick you got there! ;)
     
  3. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Thanks Jason (you visiting from r3v? Stay a while, you'll like it I bet).

    I just came in from the garage where I just got done installing the first of my many to-dos, my shiny, new Porter muffler. Long story short, even though its only a temp install (until I take the plunge and go the dual-route) , it sounds great, and I think totaly changes the character of the car. Now it sounds a mite sinister if you will...

    I'll try to get a video to post the next time I take the car for a spin.

    Thanks to Porter, a great Alliance Dealer.
     
  4. seatex
    Joined: Oct 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,670

    seatex
    Member

    MMmmmmmmm, Ranier, and the "Aroma from Tacoma",I almost miss it. Guess I'll stick with Lonestar..........but that is one sweet Buford! Makes me want to cruise to the Alkai!
     
  5. Jason_C
    Joined: Jul 30, 2012
    Posts: 22

    Jason_C
    Member

    I found this place by accident lol. Started to look around and seen it was basicly what i'm really into! But r3v and here are basicly the only two forums i visit now days.
     
  6. Jenz38
    Joined: Dec 21, 2010
    Posts: 81

    Jenz38
    Member

    Hi Rainier and to All... I'm still here and in this Thread..

    Greetings (drive in Moment with my 248 Spare Engine,have had Oilpressure/=Bearing Problems with my 263er,fix it in quiet next Winterseason)
     
  7. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Hey there, I still haven't moved, but we found a place, and now we're in Short-Sale limbo. There's not really much progress to report on the Buick, but I am emassing a pile of parts waiting for after the move and then tear-down over the winter. Mostly its just mundane stuff like cables, knobs, trim, and other such 'stockishness'. But this came in the mail today compliments of HAMB-member Frames...

    [​IMG]

    Gone are the thoughts of cobbling a log manifold together. Once this gets cleaned up, and the car starts its winter metamorphasis, the Strait-8'll look good topped with a pair of Stromberg Aerotypes, or perhaps 48s...
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2012
  8. Jenz38
    Joined: Dec 21, 2010
    Posts: 81

    Jenz38
    Member

    Hi Rainier,you are not moved ? only a new (bigger) Garage ? Yes,you are right,:D ,thats all what we need :D:D

    Is this the Manifold here out from the Forum for the really low Price ?
    Looks like its in a very good shape.

    last Weekend i have finished the Season for this Year too.My old oily Spare Engine had brung me good throu the Summer without any Problems.

    Greetz to all
     
  9. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Gruess Jenz!

    No, I haven't moved yet. The bank is taking their sweet time finalizing the sale (the house is bank-owned). Looks like we will be moved-in before the end of the year at least though. The new house has an oversized one-car garage, rather than the the place I'm currently renting that can fit two cars, if just barely. But the nice thing is that there is ample room to expand, and the city has already approved of my plans to build a nice, big two-car shop on the site. I can't wait for that, even if it will probably be next summer before that happens.

    Regardless, as soon as we move, I'm going to start tear-down so that I can get all the required steps done to get the car over to my buddy's shop for paint by the end of winter. That's the plan anyway...

    Yes, that was the manifold set that was here on the classifieds for a really great deal. It definately needs some clean-up, and the heat-risers are all frozen-shut, but with a little elbow grease it should work out great.

    Good to hear that your car made it to the end of the season on the spare motor.
     
  10. nali
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 828

    nali
    Member

    Nice 41 intake :)
    Good news is it s compliant to a 38, you won t event have to modify the engine support.
     
  11. Downtime
    Joined: Jul 18, 2012
    Posts: 35

    Downtime
    Member

    What a great looking 38. I just picked my my 39 a few weeks ago, and your pics give me some great ideas of where to go.

    Mine needs a complete interior and exterior (lol) so i have a long way, but it is a driver and I'm already trying to drive it as much as possible.
     
  12. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Thanks guys. I realy think the secret to these cars is keeping it simple, classy, and period correct with a few Westergard-ish touches and you're done.

    Anyway, I got the manifolds broken apart with a lot of PB Blaster and a cheater-bar. It wound up coming aprt without too much of a fight. The heat-riser cavities in the intake were litterally full of scale and carbon. The risers themselves are still locked up tighter than a puritain school-marm though. Oddly enough, one was stuck wide-open, the other full-closed. Im gonna try and work them free, but I may just end up having to remove them completely. Any idea what running without them is going to do to drivability?

    [​IMG]
     
  13. charlief1
    Joined: Dec 27, 2011
    Posts: 16

    charlief1
    Member
    from Texas

    I still think a dual draw through turbo system would be totally cool on that intake. Nice find though and hope it works the way you want. ;)
     
  14. nali
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 828

    nali
    Member

    Do you mean the riser in the exhaust ? For the cold start ? (English not my native langage, so I have to guess )
    If so, on a 1951 263 I plan to use for my 38, I ve never been able to make it free. I ve tried electrolysis, molasses for months, and nothing has worked. PB Blaster on parts work better if you let it wet with it for 2 week, Don t hurry.

    The car has been waiting for you for 80 years, so let it 15 days to know you re a friend of her :p
    For the echaust risers, I think the last way would be torches and making it glow red. Could not try, as I have no torch.
    The springs on the risers may be gone also ...
    I think on the 51 to just destroy it with a hammer / drill, and as I plan to use it only in spring / summer, let it get hot a little longer from factory :p

    Funny you ask, this may be a regular pb on the L8 exhaust. I ll ask on Teambuick.
    I don t think we are the 2 only one to have the same problem :p
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2012
  15. Moonequipt13
    Joined: Jul 9, 2012
    Posts: 196

    Moonequipt13
    Member

    Rainier is my favorite beer!
     
  16. jr9162
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 247

    jr9162
    Member

    RainierHooker, Use Kriol to loosen up those parts. Soak them in it (spray soak), gently tap them open/closed with a small ball peen hammer until they loosen up. Don't force the issue. Spray, soak, tap... Do it repeatedly. And yes, you want to retain the system operational if you can.
     
  17. Buick Guy
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 27

    Buick Guy
    Member

    I just finished freeing up a pair of these valves this week. I used repeated sprays of PB Blaster, and then I took a flat ended punch and smacked them with a hammer sideways. Look at the valves and you will notice that there is enough clearance between the flapper and the side of the manifolds to move them sideways about 1/8-1/4 inch. Work them back and forth and spray them with the PB. Slowly they will free up. Don't try to turn them until they start to move sideways somewhat freely. Takes time, but eventually you will get some lube into the shaft area. Good luck. Have a supply of beer on hand as it doesn't happen real quick.
    Doug
     
  18. nali
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 828

    nali
    Member

    I had news from the Teambuick forum, to loose the riser.
    It seems a correct way is to soak it with your favorite WD-40 / PB Blaster / Acetone- ATF mix, and hit it on the side of the shaft to free it.
    Heat can help.
    I ve noticed being patient and soaking for up to 2 weeks helps a lot.
    Hope this help.
    Phil.
     
  19. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Thanks guys. That's pretty much what I've been doing. The manifolds are sitting right outside my back door. Any time I go out back they get another shot of PB Blaster and a whack with a ball-peen. Eventually they'll free-up, hopefully before snow falls.

    I just got my wagon project over to a shop for some body-work this morning, so I've got space in my garage to get some stuff done on the Buick. My brake lights just stopped working, so I may be doing some wiring this week...
     
  20. I miss the PNW so much - Winter spent wrenching and Summer spent driving and going to amazing car shows. Looking great RH - keep after it!
     
  21. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,920

    phat rat
    Member

    An easy way to free them up and clean them at the same time. Get a pan, bucket, whatever big enough to put the manifolds in. Then add enough vinegar to cover them. It'll take a few days of soaking but they will come out clean and should free things up.
     
  22. Ole_Red
    Joined: Jul 29, 2009
    Posts: 596

    Ole_Red
    Member
    from 206, WA

    best of luck with the short sale. We ended up backing out on one after 4.5 months without any answers. Ended up with a bigger house with a lot larger garage in the end. I'm still getting the garage situated so that work can commence in it.

    Ive talked to a few people about Kroil and they highly recommended it. One of the people I talked to used it on his heat risers. wd40, PB, and everything else he tried didnt work. The Kroil worked overnight! Might be worth looking in to.
     
  23. Jenz38
    Joined: Dec 21, 2010
    Posts: 81

    Jenz38
    Member

    Hi Rainier, congratulations for the Manifold.
    You have good Carbs too ?
    You will build a Linkage for that to open both Carbs together ?

    Maybe your Brakelight switch is broken ? (work with Pressure and is in the Line
    under the Driverseat area.)

    Gruß
     
  24. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Thanks guys. Just keeping on the risers. I'm not too worried. One way or another, I'll get them free.

    I don't have a pair of carbs for it yet, but I shouldn't have a problem finding the carbs I want. After doing the math, it looks like a pair of Stromberg 48s on a strait-linkage will work out perfectly. Well, I say that now...

    As far as the brake lights are concered, I found a break in one of the wires coming off of the switch, the one Jenz speaks of. I have a few rolls of cloth-wrapped wire, so it should be fixed in short order. I plan of completely re-wiring the car this winter, so it's not really a big deal. I'll just have a jump-start on this circut.
     
  25. Jenz38
    Joined: Dec 21, 2010
    Posts: 81

    Jenz38
    Member

    Hi Rainier,here a couple of Pictures from my car:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    In the moment with the Spare Engine with the wrong Colour
     
  26. wibble_1979
    Joined: Sep 25, 2012
    Posts: 109

    wibble_1979
    Member

    RH give Carbs Unlimited in Fife WA a call they are in a warehouse plaza next to camping world little mom and pop shop good work decent pricing don't remember the guys name had him rebuild the carb in my RV and get it through smog he will even help you tune it with a AFR sniffer tool
     
  27. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Jenz,

    The car looks great. And the pic of your engine gives me some good ideas for linkage and connections. Thanks.

    Wibble,

    Thanks for the reference. I'll definately see what they're all about when it comes time to tune.

    On my front, it was a good day at the Monroe swap-meet. For once, I found exactly what I was looking for without too much fuss...

    [​IMG]

    A pair of really nice, complete, tight Stromberg 48's. They don't look like they have ever been screwed-with, or even opened up at all. These should work out perfectly for my dual carb setup; all the numbers come out to within a few percent of ideal whenever I do, or redo, my CFM calculations. Now to get some rebuild kits coming and then hop to it...
     
  28. Jenz38
    Joined: Dec 21, 2010
    Posts: 81

    Jenz38
    Member

    Good Catch,Rainier.
    TheCarbs looks good,it looks like that the Rust are only on the Surface.
    Hope the Housings arround the Shafts are OK ? and no Endplay ?
     
  29. nali
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 828

    nali
    Member

    I like to blast carbs with soda, as in the original Aircooldec topic. An the >Iron parts with sugar :p
    Sugar is quite agressive, and is not really waterproof ...
    Great for iron base carbs.
     
  30. 64LeSabre455
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 779

    64LeSabre455
    Member
    from Adkins, Tx

    Just got caught up on your thread, nice pics, remind me of when I was there!

    [​IMG]
     

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