Small updates. Got my Nova 10-bolt back from Houston Ring & Pinion and welded on the spring pads. 653322fac61909e95dd14f66c279df36 by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:17 PM Should get the axles & brakes loaded in within a week or two. got the M2 top hats welded on. Had to fabricate (read hack) extended front sway bar link tabs. The ones provided were WAY off compared to the anti-roll bar ends. I swear I gave the right dims to the supplier - years ago. Oh well, just another adventure in putting together a mish-mash of scrounged parts.
Following along. Doing my own '40 p/u and have my own build thread but I'm moving slower than I hoped. I'm looking forward to seeing yours come along. Cheers.
Picked up all the major machined parts for the engine. Nothing special. 305 SBC with 305HO 416 heads and a mild RV type Comp Cam. Topping it of with a 4GC and a GMCBubba converted distributor. Angled Rams Horn manifolds. The trans on the left is a NV3500 which will nestle nicely in the frames X without major surgery. shifter should come out in the right spot.
Not much to report, too bloody hot to work in the garage here in SE Texas. 90+ deg and 90+ humidity = feels like 105 degrees. I scored a perfect set of headlight buckets from John Cozza off of Fordbarn (thanks for keeping it going Ryan). Did some more work on the sway bar link tabs. Blasted and painted the original GM '60's intake (square bore to work with the 4GC). Prepped the differential to take it to work for blasting and painting. Which reminds me, I need to bring some more doughnuts to the paint shop crew.
I'm going to finish my chassis basically like I painted my model cars as a kid. Black frame, silver running gear. Maybe a little accent color on some parts. Not very original but functional.
Link to tech posting about the NV3500 trans installation. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-nv3500-5pd-in-a-35-40-ford.1039107/
Picked up another load of parts from storage. wheels, m/c, driveshaft, rear axles, all brake rotors. FOUND my damn piston rings ! now I can assemble the engine! Ef1a9189843edeeb6fbc7c91b921bb3f by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:37 PM
Dropped off my drive shaft at C&T Driveshaft on Griggs rd to shorten and swap in a large spline yoke for the NV3500. Same as a TH400. Good old GM interchange.
"It wont be anything special. SBC, 5 speed, 10 bolt, mostly stock made with cheap parts I've been accumulating for about 5 years." It's special enough for us.
Fun with fire ! 0702e40c1628a6d7e9321672f7ee6aea by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:34 PM 2af81b033143116d69c966c226f97b91 by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:34 PM C1678b7b8b95e8227b939ffc6d8e3ac5 by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:34 PM
A little blasting and POR-15 high heat makes em purty 4af21384647eb6d24ba85dc3ac70f6d5 by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:31 PM
Still need to touch up a few spots and bake at 400 per the instructions on the can. Don't know if baking will change the color or not.
Mockup engine positioned. Welder Series mounts go on this weekend. 00753e4d29828fabf1352a5918f3534d by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:27 PM
Decided to smash my fingers on something besides frame work I want to run '58 Chevy tail lights so i picked up some at a swap meet: Knocked out the reflector housings and painted them white for more light reflection. Pop riveted them back in: Had to make the holes bigger for the replacement bulb sockets and to change the small reverse lights over to dual element. Borrowed a hole punch from work: Crimped in new dual element bulb sockets that have their own grounding tab: Wa la. with 3 new lenses and gaskets from www.taillightking.com Does anyone know where to find the base gasket for these housings? I only have one. EDIT: AH HA! thanks to the build thread by INSANE 1 - http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/insane-58-chevy-build.315315/ - they are available at: http://www.autocityclassic.com/content/58ChevroletCatalog2014_2015.pdf
Motor mounts in! From www.welderseries.com. yes, I still need to dress the welds. I'm just jazzed to hit this milestone. 7390b3953543f47dc4a73fd8986417b2 by treb11 posted May 15, 2017 at 1:23 PM
So...... I decided to start assembling my engine. took the freshly machined crank out of the plastic bag and.... RUST ! @#$%^&^* SE Texas humidity worked in through TINY holes in the bag and rusted the journals. Took it to Westside Performance Machine and I hope they can polish it out. Put the rings on the pistons for spite. Will I go to Hell for not using a ring expander? UPDATE: rust would not polish out, crank is now going down to 20/20. need new bearings now. f**k.
Is there something I can show or send to you? Its funny, depending on if I view from my phone or computer I may or may not get tbe red X. Probably a synchronization issue between Tapatalk and the internet hosting engine. EDIT: I've replaced some of the images by saving them to the JJ hosted media gallery for my account. They were originally loaded directly to the forum from my phone. EDIT EDIT: Now I can't see squat for images on the app, just the URL address for the image in the album.
Must be as I can see the photos fine in the app but get the X's on my computer. Maybe see if @Ryan is aware that this is happening I see a couple of threads in the questions section about this but no reply. Nice build so far!
Ok, previously promised I would show a brake / clutch bracket. This is actually version 2.0. 20170527_162351[1] by treb11 posted May 27, 2017 at 7:25 PM I started on a bracket using a 1" thick aluminum block, similar to the ones commercially available. BUT i am using a Corvette manual master cylinder. This is because of 4 wheel disc brakes. The mounting flange is much larger than the Mustang style flange that the commercial adapter is for, and it fouled the center of the X. Back to the drawing board. The one original thought I had was to use another brake pedal on the clutch side to move the clevis attachment to work the clutch m/c properly. 20170527_162419[1] by treb11 posted May 27, 2017 at 7:27 PM I made a base from 1/4" plate which attaches to the original 3 m/c mount holes. 20170527_162400[1] by treb11 posted May 27, 2017 at 7:27 PM a 2" long piece of 2" OD tubing spaces the m/c rearward and a piece of 3/8" is the m/c mount. the original fine thread holes are used with SHCS to hold the adapter plate. 20170527_162435[1] by treb11 posted May 27, 2017 at 7:27 PM I still need to get some clevis ends, but thats pretty much it. The pictures all seem to show the clutch m/c hitting the brake m/c but there's really lots of room between 20170527_162927[1] by treb11 posted May 27, 2017 at 7:27 PM 20170527_164415[1] by treb11 posted May 27, 2017 at 7:27 PM Thanks to clockwork30 for the Wilwood clutch cylinder.
Not much exciting to report. Entering that stage where everything needs a little $5 part to move ahead. Just chipping away at tasks. I'm running the fuel and brake lines. 3/8 Stainless from the leftover rack at work for the fuel line. Fittings from www.redhorseperformance.com and www.itcbillet.com. Swapped the bearing races in my new rotors this weekend using the "weld bead on the old race" trick posted up on here. Worked like a charm.
it is a 260-15096 GS Like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwo...ntegral-Master-Cylinder-0-62-Inch,272622.html I am going to have to shorten the rod and thread it more, but that's just buildin'. Please also note I am using a stock BRAKE pedal arm on the clutch side of the bracket to put the rod end under the pivot.
Well I've reached a point where the cab is needed to get all the interfaces right. Brake & clutch pedals, steering, battery box mounts etc etc. So I hauled my cab out and brought it to the garage. Need to get cab mounting wood.
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