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Projects Quilt - my '40 PU build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by treb11, May 13, 2014.

  1. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,241

    treb11
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    I finally admitted to myself that even if I have the ability, I just don't have the time right now. So the frame for the '40 pickup got dropped off yesterday.

    Its not strictly a traditional build, but Rocko and the crew can get me on a solid foundation a lot sooner.

    It wont be anything special. SBC, 5 speed, 10 bolt, mostly stock made with cheap parts I've been accumulating for about 5 years. Example: this frame is the best combined bits of three frames.

    The HAMB has been a major inspiration and idea source. And a great resource, GMC Bubba, North Texas Customs and Toast and a few others have contributed so far.


    posted via smoke signals made with a Mexican blanket
     

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  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
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    That ought to create some progress. I see nothing wrong with deciding to haul pieces of a project to shops that can get things done and done right and push the progress rate of the project into another gear at the same time.
     
  3. treb11
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    treb11
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    Last edited: Jun 11, 2015
  4. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    treb11
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    Boxing plates from WelderSeries wrap down the X rails to stiffen the frame at this juncture. I'm not gonna have mega horsepower, just a SBC. I will scallop the ends kinda like the hatching shows.
    Yes it is the dreaded M2, but I had nothing to start with and gradually pieced together all the parts. A spindle from E-bay, a R&P core at the swap meet. Crossmember is from JW Rod Garage.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
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  5. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
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  6. treb11
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    Last edited: Jun 11, 2015
  7. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Been making little bits of progress. Got the front calipers, inside door covers, valve covers and leaf spring brackets blasted and etch primed. The free stainless bullet mufflers cleaned up.
    Tested fitup of Mustang clutch cable -wont work with a NV 3500 housing, so back to hydraulic. Was trying to do this:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-clutch-cable-installation-w-pics.210569/
    The NV3500 is a hydraulic push type from the front side and the position of the end of the clutch fork does not leave enough room to secure the cable end and have any stroke of the cable threaded attachment. Dang. Hope someone finds this helpful.

    Next thing I need to do before anything else is get a title on it. Wish me luck
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
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  8. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    got my axles for the Nova 10-bolt back from the machinist. slight turn down on the flange and pilot to match the 3rd gen Camaro rear disc brakes. might be able to work on body panels this weekend.
     
  9. 36couper
    Joined: Nov 20, 2002
    Posts: 2,008

    36couper
    Member
    from ontario

    I know how you feel. I bought a 40 pickup that was sitting on an S10 chassis. It was a disaster waiting to happen. I ended buying a brand new chassis with all the right parts. It's become a bit of a money pit but should be nice when it's done. I'm trying to do as much as I can by myself. It's been over a year now but should be road-worthy next fall.
     
  10. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Mind you, my project is stored 3 hours away from the house for the foreseeable future. I did parlay a sick day trip to the eye doctor into a long weekend. Did some dent removal on the cab and cleaned the shop out a little. Cut some patches for the vent and PS door from the donor parts I have. Just a "little" rot on the cowl vent area.
     

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    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015
  11. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Got an underdash parking brake thanks to Caterpillar62. Otherwise just doing the blast and prime thing on small parts. One headlight bucket showed just one ~1/8" hole when I started. When done, it looked like Swiss Cheese. unusable. Oh well, off to fleabay.
     
  12. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Dropped off the short block at Texas Engine Machine in Llano. Jeff has already done the heads. Good shop I recommend them if you are in central Texas.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
  13. treb11
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    Good news from Jeff. Block passes mag and will clean up with a little hone. Crank will get 10/10
     
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  14. treb11
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    Also dropped off my 74 Nova 10 bolt at Houston Ring & Pinion.
    It will get Yukon 3.42 gear set and a GM posi unit
     
  15. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    brought the frame out from storage to our house after cleaning out the garage. gathered a few parts and started bolting. Felt good. Got the TCI rear spring brackets mounted. I will fab some new rear mounts that attach through the frame, rather than under it thereby lowering the rear about an inch. this is the way the SAC kit was, but I didn't buy one before they went out of business. 20160223_195356 (3).jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2016
  16. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
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    That chassis looks good I did a similar thing on the rear suspenson up on my 48 when I set up the it up.
    I'm chasing a 40 pickup chassis that got jerked out in an S-10 swap for parts for my Model A right now but don't know if it has what I need.
     
  17. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Thanks Mr48. This frame is the best parts of 3 different ones cobbled together. The crew at Austin Speed Shop made it whole and straight for me. I need to post up pics of the teardown.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  18. treb11
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    I needed to remove the anti-chatter rods (wont be using them) so I knocked together a quick tool from a 5/16 keystock and a 1/2" nut. Surprisingly it worked ! the bolts had been soaking on PB Blaster for a while too.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    My wife caught me playing with the rear spring brackets.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
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  20. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    So, I'm using a frame cobbled together (Thanks Austin Speed Shop) from several 35 - 38 donors. I want to use a '40 pedal and clutch bracket, but it goes "thunk" (picture 1)and the bolt holes don't line up. HMMM... I found a nifty little cutting template here:
    http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/Pedal_Power/Pedal_Power.htm
    and backed up the cut area with a piece of scrap wood. Using a hole saw, I made a couple of clearance cuts and smoothed them out. By jingo it worked!

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
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  21. treb11
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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
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  22. treb11
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    No torch or plasma work, but it still came out. Next to get the bracket bolted up and begin making the master & clutch cylinder adapter plate. To work with a hydraulic clutch m/c, the original pedal will not do, as the clevis point is above the pivot and pushes toward the front when you mash the clutch. This is fine for a mechanical clutch, but my NV3500 trans is hydraulic and the clutch fork sticks out on the other (passenger) side. Instead of cutting up the clutch pedal, I had a small inspiration. While piddling around with the original assembly, I happened to put the brake pedal on the clutch pivot. Bingo! Clevis point is now underneath and works the right way. I scoured out another brake pedal (Thanks Junkman JR!) and will hopefully post up the assembled bits soon.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  23. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,823

    BJR
    Member

    That sure doesn't look like you quit your 40 build to me!! Don't feel bad about not having the time, mine sat for 15 years off and on, and now I working on it.
     
  24. LTM75110
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
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    Will be watching this now,As I`m about to start a similar 40 pu project of my own.Looking good so far.
     
  25. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    Ha ha BJR. Thanks. I squeeze in time when I can just like everyone else. The "QUILT" in the title is my acknowledgement that I went about this completely wrong. Buying a bit here and a bit there trying to be cheap. Instead of starting with the most complete and best shape vehicle. And a nod to my mom who loved quilt making.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  26. Looking good! I love 40 pickups.
    PM'd you on the parts.
     
  27. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
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    I finally have a target for what I want my truck to look like, the Ron Dorman 1940, built by Precision Street Rods& Machines. I love the color, it reminds me of the show rod colors from the magazines I read in the '60's. Mine will have a stock 40 bumper with guards and black running boards. Ron Dorman 1940 PU.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
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  28. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,241

    treb11
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    1461461786942.jpg 1461461808371.jpg 1461461825307.jpg

    I've never liked the way the TCI kit brackets hang below the frame. so I made some through frame brackets like the old SAC kits. Some 3/16 plate bent at tapered angle to fit inside the frame rail and some tubing with the same ID as the TCI brackets. this raises the rear spring mount 2" and the axle 1" I hope to not have to use spacer blocks to achieve a proper stance.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  29. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,241

    treb11
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    1461462232133.jpg
    Drilling a big ass hole is like breakfast. The chicken is involved, but the pig is committed.
    1461462243958.jpg
    Wow, the tubing actually fits !
    1461462261589.jpg
    Cut to the same length as the TCI tube - 2-1/2"
    1461462278913.jpg
    wow, this might actually work! Yes, I checked to see if it will clear the stock gas tank, loads of room. I will add another inner plate to support the tube on the inside after I finish welding the tube to the bracket on the inside.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
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  30. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,241

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    Make a matching opposite side:
    1461462811037.jpg
    And there you have it!
    1461462819823.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016

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