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Technical Quicky paint...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazy Steve, Oct 21, 2015.

  1. Ok, just like the title says, I may want to do a quicky paint job on a car I'm looking at to buy. Typical uncared-for 60-year-old paint, oxidized and surface rust in places. If Earl Schieb were still around, that's about all I need; cheap is a big item. This is mostly for protection in the short run, but I hope to see some cosmetic improvement, something better than 'rat rod', rattle-can, or 'patina'. Suede finish is fine, easy sanding/removal later will be a plus. Basically, scuff it with some 320 and shoot it. I would like to do a color, can I have whatever I use tinted? And did I mention that cheap would be good? The car will see weather and some cruisin', so 'presentable' and weather protection is all I'm really after. I will be doing some minor bodywork too (maybe both before and after paint), so that may need to be factored in.

    Advice and pointers welcome....
  2. prs2
    Joined: Mar 4, 2008
    Posts: 7


  3. prs2
    Joined: Mar 4, 2008
    Posts: 7


    Thin down some rustolem, scuff and spray
  4. I don't remember Rustoleum as being easy to sand....

  5. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,636

    Stu D Baker
    from Illinois

  6. I think I remember reading that you can't paint over Rustolem and expect it to stay. You might want to do a little research.

    Charlie Stephens
  7. Rattle Trap
    Joined: May 11, 2012
    Posts: 358

    Rattle Trap

    I drive by an Earl Schieb every day. I guess they are now only in certain parts of the country?
  8. Tint some high fill urethane primer-The toner will give it a little 'sheen' and the urethane primer will seal the surface and be easy to sand later on. If you want it to lay down nice you may need to over-reduce it a little depending on the temp and how you want it to look.

    IMG_0772 - Copy.JPG
  9. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 2,839


    I painted my '29 Pickup a few years ago with an inexpensive single stage urethane recommended by my local automotive paint supplier. The truck was already straight and primered so I just cleaned, scuffed and sealed it, then sprayed the color per the instructions. A month later it was flaking off starting around the door openings and hinges. It was a bunch of work only to have it look like hell in a month or so.
    Lately I have seen some cars at the local events that were painted by Maaco. I was told that it was pretty affordable, guaranteed and it looked pretty good for a daily driver. I would check with a similar type local paint shop. Look at cars they have painted, talk to customers, etc. You may be time and money ahead to just let "Earl Scheib" do it.
  10. I guess I should have been more clear; this is intended to just be a temporary paint job, with the ability to touch it up as modifications are performed. I've actually considered the local Maaco for 'final' paint (their 'upscale' paints jobs can look pretty good), but that's rather more than I want to spend at this point.
  11. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,636

    from Chino, Ca

    Same here. There's one in Montclair. I haven't seen Macco or 1 day paint. By the way, when I first moved to Chino in the early 90's, Earl Schieb horse ranch was still there. Now it's all full of homes.
  12. A mate of mine sprayed his car with some base coat that he got from a swap meet (no clear) came out looking pretty nice and about 3 years later it seems to be holding up pretty well.
  13. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 586


    Hey Asphalt Angel....Do you have a build on your ford shown in the picture above? Did you remove the running boards? Thanks.
  14. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,110


    I look on that auction site for paint at times. There are a few cheap paint suppliers there. TCPglobal has good quality for fair price. Sometimes there are random paints for sale if you don't care for color or brand. Recently I bought 2 quarts of Centari from one guy and 2 more quarts of a similar color Centari from another guy. Mixed them together and painted a beater truck. Had less than $60 in a gallon of quality paint.
    You could also try these guys,
  15. 26Troadster
    Joined: Nov 20, 2010
    Posts: 594

    from Texas

    being temp i would use a colored primer, that way it sands easy. i like lacquer primer but sometimes never get to painting it later.
  16. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 4,225

    dana barlow
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    I like gloss/shiny myself, never had a prob with gloss enamel,but it dose take time to dry before you can buff,I don't buff for a month.
    Tractor Supply has some gloss colors that are cheep. Sure is way EZer to clean an looks nicer longer then any flat or statin
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2015
    hotrodharry2 likes this.
  17. 40FORDPU
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,005

    from Yelm, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    I like the idea of a tinted primer for what you want to achieve.
    I've used TCP Global several times. They have a wide selection of different primers, top coats, and supplies at a reasonable price delivered to your door.
  18. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,647

    from Woburn, MA

  19. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,763

    Gearhead Graphics
    from Denver Co

    Hit your local napa paint store. Finish1 /Martin Seniour single stage "kits" of a gallon of color and all stuff needed for less than 200 bones. Nice selection of colors in pre made kits that are even cheaper
    belair likes this.
  20. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,253


    I've had real good luck using SS acrylic enamel on beaters. Why do it twice? Holds up to weather, looks presentable, relatively cheap depending on color. One & done.
  21. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,445

    Rusty O'Toole

    Go with the primer and seal it with a coat of clear. Primer is porous and will allow moisture and rust to penetrate so you need to seal it. Also, any oil drips or brake fluid that soak into the primer can haunt you if you paint over them later.

    When you are ready to paint it will be easy to give it a light sanding and paint away.
    Paint Guru likes this.
  22. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 5,851

    A Boner

    If you have ever painted a car, the words quick and paint don't go together.
  23. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,635


    Neither does "cheap". Suck it up and pay a little more to get a whole lot more.
    hotrodharry2, dana barlow and Dave Mc like this.
  24. R A Wrench
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 462

    R A Wrench
    from Denver, Co

    I did my F1 in tractor paint. John Deere Blitz Black, with their thinner it was about $60.00 and a couple years later it is still holding up.
  25. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,260


    2K primer sealer holds up great.
  26. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,072


    Get the rust spots down to bare metal, neutralize all the pits with evaporust, soak a towel in it and keep it damp. May take a couple wire wheel, evaporust treatments. Neutralize the evaporust with baking soda water. Degrease the panel, DA the panel to blend the edges well.

    Get epoxy primer, contact paint guru or southern polyurethane, and have them tint the primer whatever color you want your final paint job to be.

    Shoot the bare metal areas and let the primer flash off, shoot the entire panel again. You need to build up the areas that were bare to level the surface.

    Paint job done, when you're ready to do more, block the epoxy primer, spray some more, repeat. Topcoat.

    Don't use industrial paint, valspar, rustoleum, you'll have to strip it all later.

    Just ordered some paint from tcpglobal, chassis black urethane, shooting the bottom of a car, I've been wanting to try their paint for a while, we'll see.
  27. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,072


    I watch it too, haven't picked any up yet.
  28. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,505


    Back in the early 70's I used One Day Paint and Body on my '55 Chev ragtop........
    $160 for a two tone (coral and shadow gray). Just something to make it look decent so I could get going on the road.....well, I sure did not expect the results they gave me. Way better than ever expected. So be could get better than expected.
    Now on the other hand my brother had a Schieb job done on his '57 Chev more door in the mid 60's......from silver to black........two days later the roof peeled off!
  29. oldsroller
    Joined: Jan 3, 2007
    Posts: 119

    from PA

    Get a tinted sealer, primer will hold moisture. Can work on, then respray as needed. When ready to paint, just sand , wipe down, and spray.
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,757


    We have Farm and Home type stores in the Midwest , I have painted several trailers with their tractor type paint. I thought it looked good and is certainly inexpensive. Not a big selection on colors is the bad part.

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