Technical quick change rear cover bearing removal

Anyone have a method of removing the rear cover bearings ? some time back while rebuilding a 201 halibrand I tried heat/chilling/reheating/ penetrant etc. with no results, ended up getting a new cover but would like to use the script cover at some point. Thanks, Ron

 

I put them in the oven and heat them up and they just fall out.

 

Did try that some time back however I've read anything above 350 f may cause warping true or not ???

 

I want to say I heated them to 350 degrees, with the even heat in an oven shouldn't cause any problems.

 

They tended to fall out when changing gears on a hot rear end-someone may have lock tighted them in--a little heat and a slide hammer made for removing seals may work

 

I use a small toaster oven for this, at 300 degrees. If you block the cover up, face down, the bearings should fall out. If not, have a welder's glove handy, remove the part from the oven, an slap it down on a 4x4, and they should fall out.

 

Thanks, need to see how I'm able to grab on to the bearing to put some prying leverage on it, don't have it readily available to ponder it again...currently stepping through a 11 bolt Frankland rebuild with a similar situation & it happens to be the deep cover & perhaps even more challenging

 

If all else fails, cut the inner race out, remove the balls and cage, weld a bead around the inside of the outer race. Works every time.

 

Thanks Marty, I always enjoy your posts & I did early on exactly as you suggested even giving it a couple hammer raps, I'll need to give it another whirl for a longer bake. Might be in order to pick up a toaster oven at the 2nd hand store & stay clear of my wife's new oven.

 

Yeah, thought about breaking it out & tacking on as well

 

Prying can mess up the bores they rest in.

 

I use an old gas oven that came in the basement of the house I bought. You need to put the part in and let the oven get to 300 or so then remove your part. If you take it out to early it won't be to temp yet.

 

I followed Winter's directions. Place the cover bearing side down, on spacers taller than the bearings, then gently heat
the cover with a propane torch (for plumbing). The bearings will simply fall out.
If you heat the entire cover and bearings in an oven, both will expand and defeat the purpose.

 

Expansion rate is different between the two dissimilar metals.

 

Usually the oven heat works just fine. But, I recently had two that just wouldn't budge. I limit the heat to 350*.

I had a Snap-on blind hole bearing puller but not the proper collet. I borrowed one and then ordered my own which worked just fine.
I can post pics and part numbers tomorrow.

 

What Temperature Degree’s Settings do you Ser it @. & how long should it be in the Oven? Thanks Dereald Millsap
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I set the oven to 300* and let the plate get to 300*

 

We've used a vintage K-D tappet puller to remove the bearing from the heated cover. Seldom need to use it. Ron

 

I use my kerosene shop heater for all my quick change heating needs. I keep a super close eye on it with a pyrometer, but you are probably not "supposed" to do it that way.



-Abone.

 

The recommended way is in an oven for even heating of the casting. I also use 300 degrees. About half an hour.
The kerosene heater will work and so will a grill. I have done it with a rosebud heater, but you have to be careful. Frankland had an instructional video, years ago, showing what I believe was a MAP gas torch, huge flame. Heated most of West Coast Florida, I'm sure.
The main thing is to not heat the pinion nose bearing support quicker than the rest of the case. It will make a 'ping' sound you will never forget as it breaks.

The magnesium is more sensitive to uneven or over heating than aluminum. DO NOT exceed 350 on a mag case!