Hot Rods Quick Change, Quickchange

Thanks for that information on the obtainable with of the gold track. Im not home to measure my center, but the catalog shows 3 3/4" for the center widths. That means each bell will have to be at least 1 5/16" deep to hold that carrier. Hmmm Can't wait to get home and measure it the bell depth. Could also slightly deepen the bearing mount surface if it is within reason - like an 1/8" or something like that.

Can you make a Gold Track like that reasonable less "locker" like (really poppy) with lighter internal springs etc. ?

 

I believe the gold track is much smoother than a locker.

 

Ago is correct. The gold track is inherently smooth, not bit notchy like a locker.

But, I don't think there is a chance in hell that you can make a differential narrow enough to work those plates and a 3 3/4" center. As I said earlier, the SLM bell/tube combination looks to be about the same inside as your plates. The differential I showed was till way to wide to work with them and a 4 3/8" wide Halibrand center.

The left hand bell that Gimpy showed illustrates how deep the bearing pocket needs to be on that side in order to make it work. The right side isn't nearly that deep. So, even if you can narrow a diff enough to fit in between the side plates, you won't be able to get the ring gear far enough away from the pinion.

Unless somebody has a better solution, I think that combination can only be made to work with a spool.

Sorry,

Bruce

 

I have a Gold Track in here somewhere. I am pretty sure you cannot cut it down by more than about 1", without rendering it into pieces, and that would be ignoring ring gear position.

 

I am back,what oil do you recommend for a my frankland it has a locker with full floating hubs,I shorten the axel tube with a buddy,I ordered axel but they sent me a 28.5 and the other side is a 28,is this ok to run? I understand I put a bolt and jam nut in the ends of the axel what do I adjust them to?

 

washers or whatever on the bolts until the outer end is close to the cap on the drive plate. 28.5 OK just as long as it does not go so far into the locker that it reaches the other side and locks up the locker. they used to make a splined stub to bolt on the end and lock up a locker.

 

Thank you,What oil do you use with a locker.On the street

 

I with the gear driven limited slip differentials, have been using 85W90 in the regular cars*, and 85W140 in the tow vehicles. I like synthetic, but I am not sure that it makes that much difference.

*Except the wifemobile, which uses special WV stuff, as it has two wet clutches.

 

I agree with Gimpy. The only differentials that seem to require 'special' lube are those that use clutches. Not too many versions use that configuration.

I searched out your other posts on several threads to be sure what I was talking about, SDLUCK. You do have a Locker. Any common gear lube will work. Synthetic may be better but I haven't seen any proof of that.

Lockers tend to be noisy and feel 'notchy'. I haven't seen gear lube have any effect on that. Internal springs do but do not eliminate it.

 

Just wondered who you got your axle from. Did you ask for a 28 or 28 1/2"?

As Frames said, you want to be sure that the long axle doesn't reach to the opposite side gear splines. As there is about a 1" gap between the side gears in a locker, you are probably safe. But the best way is to hook a tape measure on the side gear, pull it through to the outside of the drive flange and see what the actual ideal length of the axle is. If necessary, you could shorten the longer axle. Cut it on the inboard end. Final total end play should be about 1/16".

 

Thank you what do you recommend for gear oil

Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

what do you recommend for gear oil

Sent from my SM-G550T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

See post #339
80W90

 

Thanks to all.

 

I only saw a listing for a 28.5 for a hollow from Frankland,but my friend had a 28.0 hollow.

 

Thank you

 

So put the bolt in the axle with a jam nut and use it to bolt up against the other axle to keep them from moving. Is this how you set the endplay. The locker is hollow and the axle can slide into the other splines.

 

Yes, that's correct. Like Frames said, just make sure the long axle doesn't catch the opposite side splines. You may need to use bolts in both axles, depending on how much clearance exists. You can round the heads a bit so they don't make shavings in your rear end.

 

I recently acquired two Halibrand midget quick changes. One is a 101, the other is a 101H. Both have live axles. I've seen articles about converting the 201's to use 28 spline axles. I have a 1931 Model "A" rear axle assembly. The carrier is different than the 1932 V8 carrier. Will the V8 carrier and ring gear fit into the 101 housing?

 

Mine is a garden variety Winters. I bought it with wide 5 floating axles that had no brakes...only a pinion disc brake. Was in a pulling truck.
I swapped the spool out for a locking differential, got a pair of axle tubes with 9 inch style ends and a pair of "cut to fit" 31 spline 9" axles from the local roundy-round race shop and scarfed up 2.25" brakes from a 68 Merc Monterey.
R&P is 4.86.

 

TrackTV6,
I'm no Model A expert, but here is what I have gleaned over the years:
First to answer your question, The V8 carrier will not fit in the 101 housing.
I believe that most Halibrand Midgets were built as live axles. If you have a Model A axle assembly you can likely put all the innards from it into a 101 case. Not sure about the pinion shaft, it may need to have the end turned down to accommodate the rear cover bearing.
The conversion kit you want to adapt 28 spline axles is available from Hot Rod Works.
http://www.hotrodworks.com/product-category/axle-conversions/

I don't know of anyone else who has done a push in axle conversion for the Model A.

As I understand it, the Model A rear end was used from 1928-1931 BUT there may have been carryover to some 1932 models. The 1932 had it's own rear but it may have been carried over to 1933.
Most guys refer to the V8 rears as anything from 1934-1948. That eliminates any conflict with carryover parts.

Now a couple of questions for you. You say your Halibrands are marked '101' and 'H101'. Are there any visible differences in the cases? Are you taking the numbers from enter section castings? Got any pictures? We love pictures.

 

Rocky,
That is a great way to get into a QC. I'm a little curious about the differential. It looks like a 'Detroit' locker but slightly different. Do you know who made it? By any chance, did you open it up? And if so, did you take pictures?

Thanx,
Bruce

 

Its taking forever to load pictures from my phone! As I get more, I'll post them.

 

I have the model A axle tubes. Called HRW about a ring gear carrier for 28 spline axles and 9" bearing ends.

 

Got a few Quickchange questions and after thumbing threw pages of threads for a couple days this seems like a good one to add too.

I have an empty halibrand 101 magnesium case - I don’t think it’s the one with the window for the in/out option seen in some midgets.

I have a good model A rear and torque tube.

From what I can figure I’ll need a rear cover, which seems to share a bolt pattern with some of the 201/v8 rears so that shouldn’t be a big deal.

The shorter second shaft, hotrod works carries these but if I had the dimension could one be machined/ made from old ford parts?

Bearings/ seals/ associated center section bits. I can’t find an exploded view to see what goes where, a few mega blurry photobucket images is all in finding. I also can’t find any parts numbers for them. I see hotrod works sells a “kit” for the A Quickchange rears but doesn’t actually list what parts/ numbers are in it.

I then see some mention of needing to machine the stock pinion, from what I’ve read it seems like a little groove is needed? The threads I found on the subject are old enough that the photos are gone and some of the text in regards to measurements have turned garbled.

I also see mention of shortening the driveshaft and then machining a spline to the end so that the end of the shaft isn’t a taper anymore. Then using a splined coupler to join the driveshaft to the rear.

I dig around finding parts and pieces but haven’t found any solid, full info on the 101 hopefully I’ll get some good information here.

Thanks in advance