Hot Rods Quick Change, Quickchange

I would like to establish this thread to consolidate information and questions regarding Quick Change rear ends to one location. With the new format, some of the old threads have been corrupted. And others have just disappeared. As some of you know, I am trying to finish a book on this subject but have had some interruptions. I am hoping to attract some other H.A.M.B.ers that have QC knowledge and experience to subscribe and comment. (Marty Strode, Lynn Pew etc.)I will normally check in twice a day and have email notification for new posts. One other thing, I really hate it when I look at old threads and all the pictures are gone because they were posted on some other server. Let's try to post them directly to the H.A.M.B. so that others can read and learn for years to come.
Thanx,
Bruce Schneider
Gearhead's Quickchange Exchange

 

Great plan! Was looking forward to a spadaro unit,but in light of his unfortunate health issues,it doesn't look like that will happen. It will be good to see the available options all in one spot!

 

I recall a similar thread a year or two back.
Derek from Antique Ford here in New Zealand makes a QC center for model As. He's Retro4 on here.

 

I will be following along.

 

Here is a Tech article I did on setting up my Winters V8 Quick-change.

 

Bruce,
I am starting on the "live axle" Pat Warren V/8 unit for the "Spaulding", what a learning experience !! When it further along I will post pics. Great idea, getting all of the info together.

 

Got a Benson magnesium center unit QC going under another Roadster. I'll be doing a tech on it as soon as I get to it.

 

I have seen people use a quick change setup as a way to beef up the center section of an Early Ford commerical axle - and retain the DRW setup. I have seen them used to make a '37 1.5 ton rolling chassis adapted to present-day use. Could this thread be a place to capture some info on that setup?

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Great idea as I have received questions on some of my old posts. I have been a QC guy my whole life and I don't plan to stop now. The volume of questions I receive are concerning a differential for the Champ with side plates for the early Ford axle tubes. I did a post on the conversion using a Diamond Trac but I know there are many others that can be machined to fit the bearing surfaces of this set up. I am helping a fellow right now with this very problem. The Champ center sections are a little too large for the Deuce but I like them in a 34 Ford. The cases are reasonable but the side plates and differentials are hard to find and expensive. Winters has the best deal going today with the demise of Halibrand but I still like to work on the old Champs. Here are some photos of what I do most of the time with the Champs.


I prefer the look of the Ford housings but they are a lot of work.

Finding the side plates is getting real hard to do. If you are using the 11 bolt version I believe the Winters adapters will work.

Here is the differential that has been cut down on the right side to fit in the housing. Note the cut goes down into the differential but doesn't affect the strength as it is just a few thousands.
This work was done by John's Rear Ends in the Valley.

I was lucky to locate some NOS CAE units for a good price. Seals and races are available at any good bearing store.

These EF bolt circle holes have not been drilled and came that way from Halibrand. I tap them but some people drill them all the way thru and use studs for easy removing and less striping of the threads. Note there is a seal to prevent any oil from coming into the housing. I still install axle seals on my 9" inch housing ends just in case.

 

great thread, look forward to learning more as I'd love to eventually fit on under my 34.
Cheers,

Drewfus

 

Here is a link to my post about the one that I made.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/welded-quick-change-rear.861638/

 

Damn Pewsplace! That's info I have needed for ever! Winters still makes the 11 bolt side covers? What other differentials can I use besides the Diamond Track stuff?

 

I believe Dick Spadaro's unit is a Winters.


Ago

 

wow. Love it.

 

I think your right,wanna do the closed driveshaft style in my model a coupe.

 

Been thinking of adapting Ford early bells to 10" center. I was going to machine my own adapter plates.
What are some of the issues? Diff too wide? etc.


Ago

 

The Hot Rod Works in Idaho has the blueprints to make the adapters that they made from one of my old sets. They are the experts on this set up. I would think they would be expensive to have machined. Most differentials used in racing are too wide for this set up. Halibrand used to purchase theirs from the QCE in Santa Fe Springs, CA but they no longer produce them due to Halibrand's demise.

Here is a photo of the plates used for the Champ 12 bolt housing.


This is a nice pair of adapters being installed on a Champ QC 301 Roadster unit.


Here are the new Winters side adapters used on the Champ case – 11 bolt case. I don't think you can use the EF housings with this set up but their housings are excellent.


The small unit looks good but it's not a Halibrand look. The axle tubes will not bolt to the EF 10-bolt circle.


Here is the advantage of the Winters unit – the gas tank does not need to be notched as it is shorter than the Halibrand 201 case.

 

Expensive to have machined? I do it myself, time is free on my side. I enjoy it.
Racing diff too wide? In above someone mentioned modifying the diff by cutting it back. I never laid all the parts out to see what needs modified.


ago

 

This Winters QuickChange is under my 54 Stude Conestoga (Station wagon).

Mike

 

I still have the QC bug, not sure if I know how to get rid of it.
I keep looking at this. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Winte...960-Nostalgia-V8-Quickchange-Plain,37418.html
I'd love to pull the Maverick rear end out of my RPU while it's still going together and put in this instead.
A question, if I were to buy one what gear set would work best with my Y Block and C4 combo ?
Larry

 

Well, that was a nice reception. I am not getting the email notifications just yet. But this is what I was hoping for.
I am about to start a rear end with a Halibrand 11 bolt center, Winters adaptor side plates, Detroit Locker, early Ford axle trumpets and big bearing Ford type axles. Will document and provide pics.

 

Ago,
I think I have some sketches with dimensions for making these plates. If I can find them, will post. As recall, one of the drawbacks to making these from B*ll&t is that they need to be slightly larger than 12" in diameter. The lathe I was using, could only swing a 12.001" dia. piece. Finding a section of bar might be a problem. You could cut a circle out of some plate. If you do make some, please post the tech.

 

Get one that is livable on the street. 3:50 or so. This will get you going. Unless you know a lot about your combination, torque curve, desired RPM, tire diameter you are asking a question that is too broad. Do not buy the blank out (1:1) set as this defeats the purpose.

Note that the center is not 'centered' between the wheels. This may not be important to you, but I recently built one for a very well known H.A.M.B. project and had to lengthen one tube and shorten the other to make sure the push bar and QC center visually 'lined up' while maintaining a very tight tolerance on the width.

 

As I recall, the bearing centers on the Champ with side plates is about 6.875 so everything I looked at required maching the right side down to obtain the correct bearing centers. You can see that in my post above. I found all my differentials on ebay and never got a bad one even though they were used. Prices varied from $100 -300.



This is a 3/4 ton Ford Truck differential that can be used with the 11 bolt side plates. Hard to find and usually has welded spiders. They have 12 spline side gears which I replace with Ford 9 inch 31 spline gears.
Some machine work required.



The Winters differential will not fit in the Halibrand to my knowledge but Rodsville used to offer a nice differential for their clone case.


In the 80's and 90's Halibrand out of El Cajon and Kansas sold a lot of this style Champ rear ends. Note that the full floating axles had a tendency to break under hard acceleration. Flanges would come off and the problems begin.This one came out of Edelbrock's car.


I am working with Bob on his Culver City uint using 40 Ford axle tubes and a closed driveline.


Adding the 9" housing ends is highly recommended if you are running over 200 hp. Have this done or buy and alignment bar.



The Halibrand 201 case is highly sought after and normally has had repairs in the past. Finding one like this is expensive for most.


I am a model 40 fan so I prefer the Champ cases like this one which was NOS. I purchased on ebay for $250.

 

Thought I'd pipe up and remind people that cyclone Q/C's are still available and they too are short enough to clear a 32 fuel tank in a 32.

Cyclone Kevin relaunched Cyclone Racing Equipment a few years ago, and is a member here.

Here are some pictures I took a few years ago, whilst visiting Cooks Machine shop.




Notice the differences in the Quill shaft. The smaller is Halibrand, whilst the larger is the Cyclone. That, together with the reinforcing on the inside, makes the Cyclone a stronger Q/C as compared to the Halibrand V8.

 

Wouldn't the longer shaft require the gears to be farther back, thus making the Cyclone even longer than the Halibrand? I thought you said the Cyclone is short enough to not need a tank notch?

 

It doesn't need a notch, so the extra length must be forward. Cyclone Kevin has one in his 32, and no need to notch the tank

 

Converted mine to 9inch axles, there is a photo of it in Pewsplice post. Anyone interested in one of these mods let my know.

 

Now this is getting very interesting for sure.....Keep it coming guys.