Not fussy on the rail not being wrapped around the tube crossmember to make a solid connection...but its not a real problem. Shock mount is iffy...but again, not a huge problem. doesn't look to have enough caster...and that can be a definate problem...but its hard to tell from the pic angle. 4th and 5th leaves down in the pack need to be trimmed to correct length for a better ride. Don't think I would remove any leaves right away. The shackle mounts look fine to me. Shackle pivots look like regular aftermarket. The main leaf is too long. That puts the shackles on an angle where they allow side sway of the car. I think thats a big issue to check for you. Driveshaft is definately out of phase. I hate driveshaft vibrations so I'd fix that just because its wrong. Crossmember is history for sure. O strength in that setup!!! Frame looks like rectangular tube with a strip welded along its length for a body mount. I don't like to see urethane bushed rod ends hanging from an unsupported bolt. Everything has the ability to move a bit due to bushing flex. Any flexible bushing needs a tube for the bolt to pass thru before it enters the bushing, or a dedicated bushing mounting stud with no ability to flex. Should be a Heim joint there in that configuration...or if you had welded on tapered bungs...a regular tierod end. Needs welded on tapered bungs for the tierod joints at the frame mount. I'm not fussy on pitman arms pointing up, but it looks like it will work...ok. The pitman arm joint should be even with the hairpin pivot to be perfect. Perfectly level draglinks are for 4 bars. Don't like the Panhard bracket and the hairpin brackets on the rearend look iffy as well. The shock mounts look unsupported as well. Think I'd redo all that just for peace of mind. Notice the rust at the panhard bar bolt? Regular bolt holding a urethane bushing means movement, like I mentioned earlier. This is a perfect example. At the least it needs a Heim joint to replace the urethane bushing. All in all, it looks like it was a good car originally but got bastardized along the way. All the stuff is reasonably easy to fix though...except maybe all the welding to the rearend. In the flesh it might look fine and maybe the pics don't do it justice. Pics can be like that! I would tear off all that plumbing and wiring tangle and do the small stuff first...while making a plan for the rear axle. Replumb...rewire. Make required checks and adjustments to the alignment and chassis. Drive and enjoy!