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Questions about building a modified body

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hooligan36, May 7, 2010.

  1. Hooligan36
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 129

    Hooligan36
    Member

    I picked up a 28 Model A cowl a while back that is rot free that I am going to use for a modified build. I did some digging around and found a nice pair of 28 cowl posts to go with her.

    Now for the rest of the body.... what do you think the better route would be?
    1. To build a body using thin wall 1"x2" for the upper body line then sheetmetal the panels

    2. Use the rear of this vicky body I have access too.

    The damaged area on the rear of the vicky body section would be an easy fix since the driveline needs to go right through it anyway, but I'm just looking for opinions. .... and no, this is not going to stay covered in rust.

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  2. bowtie40
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 197

    bowtie40
    Member

    That Vickey rear section will make a unique body with the A cowl. Are you goin' to run a door? and are you going to run a single seat or build it for two. I built a body from a 26-27 touring front half, and narrowed it 7" leaving the cowl vent! about 3" wide. I still had room for two skinny guys. please post photos of your build, sounds Bitchin'. Brian...
     
  3. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,558

    ken1939

    Id say use the cowl, and the vicky back then either fab doors or refab existing doors to fit. Use longer doors like a vicky or a 2 door. 2 cents
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2010
  4. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I did one based on a'27 cowl that I narrowed 6". Got tired of looking for a touring center section to use, so I made one. I used 18ga. for the sides, rolled a bead at the top, made a bend above that in a brake, and shrunk the tops to get the contour of a "T" body front to rear. I used 11/2" .065 stock for two uprights at the rear, cutting one side away in a curve to get the top to bottom contour. The hardest part was the back. I cut a blank in the shape of a "T" touring seat back, turned a 1" flange at the top, and used a stretcher shrinker to form the round back contour. Worked out really well, of course, there are no doors, but I didn't feel that something this small needed them anyway. Unfortunately, that stuff to me is not that hard to do - posting pictures to a web sight.... yeesh! If you are interested in seeing it, P.M. me with your e-mail addy and I'll shoot you some pictures. Chip Quinn
     

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