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Technical Question on making fuel lines?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by evintho, Jun 11, 2020.

  1. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,415

    evintho
    Member

  2. I have used aluminum for fuel lines from the tank to the engine before a couple of times with no problems encountered.
     
  3. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,655

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    I would prefer steel. I think aluminum may crack from fatigue or work hardening. Though I do have aluminum lines from the fuel block to the carbs on my model A, but I watch those and I expect to change them out periodically. From the tank to the pump I'd go with steel.
     
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  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,470

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just use 5/16 or 3/8 steel brake line. All the same hard union fittings as the brake system. But use the flare tool to put a slight bulb on the end when you want to transition to a clamped on rubber hose.
     
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  5. Chavezk21
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Chavezk21
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    Cunifer or nicop. Whick is a nickel copper combo. Bends easy, flares great, and is just plain great to work with. Got mine at Napa, dont have the part number, but used the 3/8. bought it in a 25 foot roll. Used it for brake and fuel lines.
     
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  6. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,487

    rusty valley
    Member

    nicop is great stuff to work with, never rusts. i think summit has 25' rolls pretty cheap too
     
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  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,056

    squirrel
    Member

    Aluminum fuel line is for race cars.

    somehow I've driven 22,000 or so miles on my race car that has aluminum line, I should probably be worried about it fatiguing.
     
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  8. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 3,450

    Budget36
    Member

    Steel brake line would work, as said above..

    @squirrel did you flare the lines or? Curious how flaring Al lines will work.
     
  9. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,168

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    If you want regular steel tube for the fuel line, here's a link.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220138

    The one downside to coiled tubing is straightening it back out. Tubing straightening tools are commercially available although it probably wouldn't be too difficult to make one.
     
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  10. metlmunchr
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 739

    metlmunchr
    Member

    Personally, I'd go with the nickel copper tubing because it's rustproof and very easy to work with. But, if you want steel tubing, most any hydraulic supply store should have 3/8 OD steel hydraulic tube in 20 ft straight lengths. You'd have to find this locally rather than online as shipping on a couple 20 footers would be killer expensive.
     
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  11. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,804

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I have always used Edelman steel lines, they come in lengths from 8 to 60" long. IMG_0670.JPG
     
  12. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,415

    evintho
    Member

    I'm a big fan of Nicop. Didn't know it can be used as fuel line. Is it compatible with todays fuels?
     
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  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,056

    squirrel
    Member

    use a single flare and an AN tube sleeve and nut
     
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  14. N.A.P.A. has a line name Ballcamp. It's 25 foot rolls, comes from 3/16 to 3/4 for just exactly what your doing. There's a very easy way to un-roll it. I posted a how to a while back with photos. Pretty sure it was someone else asking how to, I just replied.
     
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  15. Warpspeed
    Joined: Nov 4, 2008
    Posts: 528

    Warpspeed
    Member

    Here in oZ, you cannot get anything road registered that has anything other than steel bundy fuel lines, and the correct fuel approved rubber hose where it absolutely must be flexible.

    Fatigue is part of it, the other is damage by flying rocks or sudden unexpected "off road events" .
    The government and politicians and insurance companies in their wisdom also worry about how very soft metal (copper and aluminium) fuel lines might behave in a horrific freeway accident.

    So over here, if you front your rod for road registration with gleaming polished non ferrous fuel lines, you will be told "no number plates for you my boy". Take it home and bring it back when its fixed.
     
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  16. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 26,857

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can buy the Nicopp fuel line from/through Amazon.
    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3/8+nico...K8P&sprefix=3/8+nI,aps,281&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_6
    It's about twice the price of a same length roll of zink coated steel is though.
    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3/8+stee...8+steel+fuel+line,aps,344&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_19

    The steel does take a bit more effort to do the bends right. I haven't flared any NiCopp so I don't know how that goes.
    I don't see the reason to run aluminum unless are building a drag car where every ounce means something.
    maybe a tad of Bubba factor for a street car if it is at all visible.
     
  17. Ericnova72
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 366

    Ericnova72
    Member

    Gasoline, alcohol, or any solvent will not hurt the NiCopp line. It is a copper alloyed with nickel for strength and corrosion prevention.

    Bends and flares much easier than steel, but maintains enough strength to be used as brake lines too.

    Volvo has been using it for something like 20+ years for brake lines....and those Swede's don't under-engineer anything.
     
  18. The 3/8" aluminium fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump on my RPU are still in perfect condition after 26 years of service. It was sold as fuel line at Super Shops.
     
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  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,056

    squirrel
    Member

    That's how you say it...but if you're searching for it on the internets, might try the Balkamp spelling instead?

    :)
     
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  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,506

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I used 3/8” Ni cop for the fuel line on my RPU and then 5/16” to the carbs.

    All the brake lines are 3/16” Ni cop.

    Everything else is also plumbed with Ni cop.

    I don’t think I will ever use anything else, I like it so much.
     
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  21. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 2,996

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    with todays fuels and aluminum line may have some issues (notice I said MAY) and something to consider. Line sections available at most every auto parts store gives you the security of replacement on the road
     
  22. That's exactly what I have done on every car I have built, I just purchase links of tubing at NAPA. HRP
     
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  23. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,316

    jimmy six
    Member

    Rigid in the engine. Rigid from the tank to 6-8” before the fuel pump. You only need hose to the pump for vibration. I’ve used aluminum from the tank to the fuel pump for years. Always mount in Adell clamps.
     
  24. Same here; has always worked well.
    And as for aluminum fuel lines... all the aircraft I've worked on had aluminum fuel and brake lines; no issues as long as they were well supported using Adell clamps.
     
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  25. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 6,512

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I plumbed my roadster with 3/8 stainless fuel line, both supply and return. Terribly hard to bend and work but looks outstanding polished and will last for eternity.

    I plumbed my 41 truck with 3/8's aluminum from summit. Rolls out easily on the floor, bends with your hands, used Russel compression fittings at firewall and Russel adapters to flex line at the tank. Because of the flexibility I could make the entire run out of one piece and snake it down the frame rail. Perfecto!
     
  26. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,326

    BJR
    Member

    I use copper line for fuel line on almost every car I have built for the last 50+ years and never had an issue. Bends and flairs easy, doesn't rust. Just fasten it down so it doesn't move, and use a rubber line from the copper to the engine for vibration.
     

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