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Projects Question for the shoebox guys - Heater?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HOTRODPRIMER, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. Another thing I need to do is remove the heater and repair the coil.

    Is it a major PITA to get to the heater out of a 49 - 51 Fords? HRP
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Wow....it's after 10 pm and no responses....guess it's time to retire !
     
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  3. luckythirteenagogo
    Joined: Dec 28, 2012
    Posts: 1,229

    luckythirteenagogo
    Member
    from Apex, NC

    With all of these responses, it must be one of those "I'm not gonna say its easy, but try it yourself" kinda things. I guess you're on your own Danny.

    Getting the heater out of a 50 Chevy is pretty easy if that means anything. Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  4. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,819

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Danny,
    It's been a long time. It's a pain but not that bad. It has a fiber main duct, hopefully yours is in good shape. I would recommend removing the seat. It makes working under there easier.
     
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  5. ......................The visual of Danny's lanky frame twisted up like a pretzel because he didn't take the seat out is just too funny for words. I've never done the task, but it can't be too bad of an experience. Good luck, I guess it does get a little nippy there in the "upstate".:D
     
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  6. As I remember it, it's a walk in the park. No big deal at all. The main heater box is held in with only 4 studs. They protrude through the firewall and the nuts are holding the fan housing tight to the Firewall. I don't think you need to remove the fan housing, just take the 4 nuts off and pull back. Of course you need to remove the 2 heater hoses from the core just don't get them mixed up with the control valve, they can stay. The defrost plentum is fastened to the main housing with one sheet metal screw and a 90 degree tab and one stud about center of the firewall. Now this is from 15 year old hands on memory however I do just happen to have a loose heater unit I'll go look at for you a little latter today to verify. I also agree with moving the seat. There are only 4 nuts, one on each corner of the seat glide and lift a bit and slide back putting the front seat against the rear seat and opening up Miles of space to work in. I'll get back to ya in a bit.
    The Wizzard
     
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  7. It does Don, we are under our first freeze warning tonight.

    I intend to use the coupe more as a daily driver and even though we don't have the all the cold and snow you guys do riding around freezing your butt off is no fun, I can live without air conditioning and with non working heater and a lot of holes in the firewall I have plenty of air!
    HRP
     
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  8. There is also a mount tab on the front right corner of main box that goes to the lower edge of the dash. The plentum mounts to the Defrost manifold. The flapper control cable is the only one to disconnect. A word to the wise. Be sure to get the correct hose that goes from control valve to lower fitting on the heater core. Having a long loop of hose hanging out and around will cause control valve failure. It actually will brake the fitting on the valve.
    The Wizzard
     
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  9. shivasdad
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 516

    shivasdad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Texas

    I just changed the heater core in a 1951 convertible. Not sure how to get the lower passenger side nut off of the blower motor housing without taking of the vent duct on the passenger side. The old heater core had a retainer that was on the two heater tubes with a small screw that needed to come out from the front of the housing. I drilled a 3/8" hole centered between the heater tubes and got the screw out with a 1/4" nut driver. This allowed the heater core to come out.

    It was harder to put it all back together in the car because of the cone that directs air from the blower through the core. Then there is a blocker that sends the air back through the core a second time before hitting all the doors and vents. There are spacers behind that blocker plate that retain the core in the housing. My new core came with instructions that noted you might have to put extra rubber cushion to keep the choir from rattling.

    Would have been easier to do on the bench but I already had it done the hard way before I realized that.
     
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  10. Thanks guys, at least I know where to start. HRP
     
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  11. Danny, Here's an idea you might consider.:D
    Wood stove in Volvo.jpg
     
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  12. lothiandon1940 likes this.
  13. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 4,621

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Darwin would love to see this. Nice haircut on the dude too!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.

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