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Question for the painters.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mike Britton, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. I finally got a decent compressor for my home shop. 5hp, 60gal. single stage.
    Went to search, got nothing. I'd like to install a water filter/regulator when I plum the shop so I can paint. Should I dedicate a drop just for paint, and put a separate filter on it? Is that overkill?
    I plan to use sc40 PVC along the ceiling in two directions so that I have a drop in each corner with a whip on each drop.
    You guys have opinions? Thanks, Mike
     
  2. ParkinsonSpeed
    Joined: Oct 11, 2010
    Posts: 429

    ParkinsonSpeed
    Member

    Run a separate filter and separator for the paint gun and make a water dump before that, i make mine like a Y with a valve at the bottom to drain water. I'm sure there are many ways but water and oil can ruin any paint.
     
  3. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member

    I run two lines at my shop. One with 2 driers coming right from the compressor. I also have a second line with a separate air filter an drier hooked to the booth for my paint guns. That way I can keep my air tools separate from my paint lines, hopefully avoiding any air tool oil contamination.
     
  4. 48 Chubby
    Joined: Apr 29, 2008
    Posts: 1,014

    48 Chubby
    Member Emeritus

    For sure one line dedicated to paint. Schedule 80 PVC costs very little more and is worth the difference.
     

  5. jmpowie
    Joined: Dec 2, 2006
    Posts: 202

    jmpowie
    Member

    I put 2 orange disposable water/air filters on my gun and have never had any water problems. I do drain the bottom of the compressor tank before I paint.
     
  6. Balls Out Garage
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 107

    Balls Out Garage
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Arkansas

    I would certainly run a dedicated drop in your paint area. The TP Tools website has some good diagrams for plumbing ideas. I ran iron pipe for mine...you might want to search the Garage Journal board for thoughts on using pvc.
     
  7. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,307

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    http://www.marcousa.com/select/datasheets/94078.pdf

    Binks says it is poor practice to mount filters and water separators near the compressor.
    Hot compressed air can hold a LOT of water as evaporated mositure. The hot air needs to cool off first, so the moisture can condense to water and be caught by the filter.

    Yeah, PVC, CPVC, most any plastic is pretty controversial these days for compressed air use. Some states forbid it.
    You have to keep it cool, to maintain the strength necessary for a decent pressure rating, and keep it out of sunlight to prevent degradation, and probably restrain it, just in case.
     
  8. fearnoevo
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 218

    fearnoevo
    Member
    from Iowa

    Separate drop, black iron pipe, near the point of primary use. Driers/water traps at the end of the drop/point of primary use. I also add a regulator there so I can set pressure at point of use.

    Also, drops should come out of the top of the trunk, and there should be a drain leg with a ball valve at the end, past the point of drop. To come out of the top of the trunk, use a Tee and two street el's.

    By running your drop out of the top of the trunk, the trunk has to fill completely before residual moisture ever makes it into the drop. With the drain leg past the drop, thats never a problem because you just crack the ball valve occasionally to drain the trunk. Don't forget a bit of fall in your trunk so the water drains to the drain leg and not back to the tank. Its not a bad idea to add a union past the drop and before the drain leg in case you want to expand later.

    I have run thousands of feet of black iron piped air line and this way worked in a factory with compressed air contaminant restrictions, in the parts per billion range.
     
  9. snopeks garage
    Joined: May 25, 2011
    Posts: 555

    snopeks garage
    Member
    from macomb MI

  10. This is a typical air system diagram. I hope this will help.
    Tony
     

    Attached Files:

  11. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,412

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    use copper.I use a sharp f88 filter regulator and drain often in humid weather!
     
  12. Wow! Thanks guys! Some great ideas here. I really like the idea of copper. I looked at it at the home store, and never even thought of using it in air management. Sweated joints! Sweet!
    It sounds like I'm trying to overkill this installation. I'm seeing a dedicated paint plug-in at a convenient spot with a ball valve, and filters on the tail of my gun/guns.
    What you are saying is that I should keep a hose dedicated for paint. I'll make it out of a different color hose.
    I'm still going to run a separator in the main line that goes around the garage. It's no big deal to incorporate it in the install.
    So, if I understand Dan correctly, I can put the separator in the main line anywhere and the moisture will eventually get to it?
    If you guys have any more ideas, I'm all for the knowledge.
    My first task is replacing the 125V. plug the previous owner was running on the 220V. compressor!!??!! I guess it was "run what you got".
    Went to the home store, and couldn't find a receptacle for that plug. Came home with a matching 50amp 250 volt plug and receptacle. I only want to do this install once, so I'm taking my time and living with that "screaming f-ing oil less Craftsman" until I get all this plumbed in. Thanks a ton! Mike
     
  13. I'm gonna bump this once more to see if anyone has anything else to say. Otherwise, thanks to all for the ideas. Mike
     
  14. NMCarNut
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 631

    NMCarNut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    All my shop air goes directly to a vertical "separation" tank and then through a Binks regulator/filter/separator set at 105 psi. Mounted in the booth is a second Binks r/f/s set at 60 psi. May be overkill, but my air is dry.
     

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