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Question for the painters

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tooslow54, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. tooslow54
    Joined: May 6, 2005
    Posts: 929

    tooslow54
    Member

    Getting ready to get my Galaxie shot in white pearl and want to make sure it comes out correct. I understand with metalflake you want to have all the panels on so the flake "lays down" in uniform, but is this also true with pearl? I'd rather have the fenders, hood and decklid off, but will do whatever I need to in order to make sure it comes out right.

    Thanks,
    Aaron
     
  2. H3O
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 597

    H3O
    Member

    from what i've heard yeah. i'm starting to paint, beginning painter, but i heard it needs to or it'd be different.
     
  3. wreckfixer
    Joined: Jun 15, 2009
    Posts: 318

    wreckfixer
    Member

    paint it all together just like metal flake.
     
  4. sunsetdart
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 106

    sunsetdart
    Member

    Pearl is best shot with all the panels on the car. Unlike regular colors , pearl does have certain additives that do make it change color. So getting it applied in the right overlaps is key.
     

  5. 29 de soto
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 177

    29 de soto
    Member

    unfortunate but true.must be shot together to insure a uniform finish.otherwise you risk the patchwork quilt effect..
     
  6. jon_p
    Joined: Mar 12, 2005
    Posts: 55

    jon_p
    Member

    If your confident in whoever is spraying the pearl, it can easily be done with the panels off the car, but I would still spray them at the same time.
    metallics can turn out differently due to air pressure, distance to panel, reducer, flash time, etc. all those variables are managable with a good painter. I've shot several cars with metallic paint and the car all blown apart, but I did all the panels I could fit in the booth at the same time to minimize the chance of a variation in color.

    Easiest way would be to shoot it all together, but it could be done with the panels off.

    out of curiosity, why not pull the doors too so there is no masking line in the jamb?

    jon
     
  7. T. Scott
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 202

    T. Scott
    Member

    i agree i know the best way really for any colors other then basic red, black, blue, ect.. even those its best to shot it all together, however if its the jams and inner fire wall and trunk walls you want done pull the fenders frist before painting and shoot those spots... do that before you shoot the rest so you dont have to worry about scratching fenders and lids while putting them back on ... line everything back up and shoot away.... also because the lighting is defferant in the fire walls and jams ect.. you dont have to worry to much about it being perfect causse the lighting will help you out alot with that and you can practice your passes on those as well befor you shoot the overall ......... hope this helped and GOOD LUCK post some pics when your done luv to see them
     
  8. tooslow54
    Joined: May 6, 2005
    Posts: 929

    tooslow54
    Member

    10-4. Thanks!
     
  9. skullhat
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 892

    skullhat
    Member

    i prefer to spray pearls with the main panels on, but well expeiernced painters pull it off all the time,with them apart

    best to mix enough peral for the whole job at the same time, and keep track of how many coats etc.

    much less risk of problems if you have it together


    skull
     
  10. Tri-Power
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 153

    Tri-Power
    Member
    from Memphis

    In my experience, panel orientation is doubly important when shooting pearls. I remember painting a moulding off the car and I had it oriented upside down. The color was WAY off. I flipped it over, shot it again, even used used the same paint and it was just fine. So...if it were me, I would paint it as fully assembled as possible.
     
  11. 1930roadster
    Joined: Nov 9, 2009
    Posts: 323

    1930roadster
    Member

    all together, only solids can be done like that, in my world anyway
     
  12. tooslow54
    Joined: May 6, 2005
    Posts: 929

    tooslow54
    Member

    Thanks all. At this point I think I'll shoot 1-2 layers of base white with it apart, assemble and then another base or two then pearl then clear. At least this way the base white is in every nook and cranny...theoritically.
     
  13. aeropaw
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 33

    aeropaw
    Member
    from McDonald

    shoot it all together, the sun will reflect it differently as it is laid down differently.
     
  14. KrisKustomPaint
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,107

    KrisKustomPaint
    Member

    pearls can change color with a relatively small change in gun distance from the panel.(or air pressure for that matter, but thats not usually an issue if you have a decent compressor.) I wouldn't ever paint a pearl with the car apart. Its like trying to panel match a candy. It might work 1 time out of 30, but thats a lot of paint to go through when you could just paint it together.
     
  15. bibb86
    Joined: Mar 23, 2009
    Posts: 65

    bibb86
    Member

    constant air pressure and distance from panel will create an even pearl. and having panels on car is a MUST for a good even job. take your time and it will come out good its not too difficult.
     
  16. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,953

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Now are we talking paint the body on Day A and doors, hood, etc. on Day B? Or Paint everything at once, but disassembled?

    I like to paint with the doors and such off, but definitely paint it all at once so your shooting from the same mix in the same conditions. Paint the doors vertically as they would sit on the car, paint the hood and decklid horizontally.

    The easiest way to make sure its all even and uniform is to paint it with everything together, then come back and jamb it. More work, but less chance of a screw up.

    I wouldn't ever paint anything other than a solid color on different days unless I was forced to.
     
  17. CheaterRome
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 371

    CheaterRome
    Member
    from URANUS

    Paint it assembled or have it set up like it would be on the car with the proper panel gaps.... way less chance of a mess up.


    If it is a tri- stage pearl like newer cadillacs (sounds like it is) and such be sure to allow proper flash time as well in between coats other wise the pearl can sink into the base and cause a mottled finish as well.

    Rome
     
  18. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,953

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Good point. Most refinish systems will recommend a basecoat activator to help lessen the chance of this. I know in PPG it is DX57 and I use it whenever I'm adding anything but clear on top of the basecoat.
     
  19. Kirk Hanning
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,603

    Kirk Hanning
    Member

    I shot my 34' pickup with HOK cinamon pearl. I had the doors off and laying flat on saw horses when shot. More times than not when looking at the truck from the side it seems that the door is a different shade than the rest of the truck. I attribute this to spraying the doors when laying flat, but I'm no paint expert.
     
  20. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Aaron,

    I'd suggest you "jam" all your tin, hang and align it and than shoot your pearl coat. ' nothin sadder than a vehicle with kustom paint and piss poor panel gaps. Too, repairing chips or damage in a pearl coat, put there when you were fighting tin alignment can be a real bitch, not as bad as a candy, but damn near!

    "Nothing Is More Common Than Unsucessful People With Talent "
     
  21. tooslow54
    Joined: May 6, 2005
    Posts: 929

    tooslow54
    Member

    I think that's what I'm gonna do. You're local (May have even met at the Luau or BBQ), if your in the mood I might be looking to just pay a pro to lay down the paint. PM me if interested.
     
  22. bigguylilroof
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 210

    bigguylilroof
    Member

    Ditto!! work smarter not harder!
     
  23. skullhat
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 892

    skullhat
    Member


    that will happen , as you tend to get more on a panel that is laying flat than upright. the pearl then lays diffrently.

    good lesson learned though, and your assumption is correct
     
  24. ron_of_orange
    Joined: Nov 19, 2005
    Posts: 1

    ron_of_orange
    Member
    from ca

    Hey Pimpin..
    Any advise for the guy who wants good paint in Orange county, CA. Is Oil based totally out. What about Laquer, Acyrellic Enamel, any single shot...bullet-proof paint that's sun and weather resistance?
    Can I paint in my garage with Lacquer?
    Any feedback from good painters who know So. Cal rules, Etc
     
  25. send_it_all
    Joined: Nov 28, 2006
    Posts: 137

    send_it_all
    Member

    If anyone in so cal needs good paint work done, call Joe at Wetworks Garage. they are in Costa Mesa. reasonably priced, too.
     
  26. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Ron,

    The deal, paint wise in SoCal, is that we're pretty much lightning struck and camel fucked!

    Between the tree huggin' commies in Sacto & the ones on the national scene, all solvent based paint material will be history in the near future, even in places where they still trade chickens and beads for goods and services. It's all a part of that big daisy chain called "Global Warming" and the religon there of. The EPA calls the play on the national level who hands the ball off to the states who will have to comply if they want federal dollars. On a local level, if you live in a major metropalitan area you have an air resorces board to deal with.This is basicly the "New Reich" and they write the local standards and only those products that comply with their rule can be sold/used. If you're caught using non compliant material, given how hungry every city in america is you can count on a pretty stiff fine. If your shooting in your own garage, you've got your local code inforcement or fire department to deal with. If you've got more than two gallons of class one material( paint and or solvent) on hand, you've got some splainin' to do!

    Lacquer based paint was removed from the paint shelves about twenty years ago-too high a level on the voc. Synthetic enamel can only be purchased in quarts and almost no one has mixing formulas for it. Acrylic enamel was pulled in January of this year, you can still find it but it takes some lookin' Don't look for the cataylist for acrylic to be around much longer.Epoxy is available in some lines, but is being largely pushed off the stage by urethane. Urethane's days are numbered as they further reduce the voc levels permited (yet, still today, no one has come up with a waterborne clear that isn't as worthless as mule cum!) and that brings us to "tree-hugger Kool-Aid" (waterborne automotive finish). Air brush guys live this shit, but don't have the change over costs a guy who shoots vehicles/aircraft/watercraft have. Paint companies in North America are all bettin' on the water crap as their future, so don't look for much more development from these companies in solvent based paint material.
    Maybe I shoulda learned to play the get-tar?

    " Beware the irrational however seductive "
     

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