Back in the days of my pre-teen years I used to go with my Dad to the local body shop on Saturday mornings when the owner we were friends with would shoot the breeze. I would always ask questions on how things were done at the time and I remember old Joe showing me a lead spray gun he used to smooth panels before the use of bondo. Now over 40 years later I found one and bought it for the heck of it. Have any of you used one and do you have any tips on using it? I know it probably isn't as good as the old paddle but I'd still like to give it a try. Anyone?
is that for spraying a thin layer on to surface a dented panel or a spray gun to fill a rust hole? interesting, dont know if molten lead fumes are bad for you but it looks like it would generate a lot of them, I'd invest in a good respirator
I'm also curious about this. I have almost bought two of these (swap meet & on line) but wan't to know how they work first. I also have a full fresh air respirator system in my garage.
have never actually seen one, but also don't consider myself a "seasoned" lead bodyman. the man that taught me spoke a little of these and said a few guys used them for tinning larger areas to be worked and also to put thin layer of lead over existing lead work. (heated properly to accept the new lead of course). great find.
Back in the late 60's I worked at a body shop after school and on Saturdays. They had a cabinet with old body tools and had what looked like a Binks #7 spray gun with a heating coil in the cup. I asked the owner about it and he said it was for spraying lead on verticle surfaces. He said first the panel would be tinned and heated with a torch, the lead was heated up in the gun cup by the electric coil in the bottom. Then after the panel was tinned and hot the lead was sprayed on. He said he only used it a few times, and quit using it when a customer came to pick up a car that had some work done on the door. It was all finished and painted, and the customer got in after paying for the work and slammed the door and all the lead fell off. He said it was a good idea that didn't work very well.
When doing leading, the sheet metal must be pre-heated enough to melt lead, or the lead will never stick to it.
I recently took a sheetmetal workshop from Gene Winfield. Gene did not advise using one - simply a novelty wall hanger. BJ- Either the door wasn't properly tinned or the door wasn't preheated properly before spraying. Leading has a very fine line between solid, spreadable and liquid. I doubt a gun like that could ever produce quality results unless used in a controlled temperature environment.