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Question about my Plymouth (trans swap)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bigolbubba, May 6, 2013.

  1. bigolbubba
    Joined: May 5, 2013
    Posts: 5

    bigolbubba
    Member

    I have a 1966 Plymouth Fury III, the auto trans is slipping if I throw it in drive and take off. If I manually shift and let off the gas pedal it shifts fine. If thats a quick fix someone please help!!!!

    If not, I would rather go to a manual trans instead of rebuilding the auto. What trans should I be looking for? Year range etc...???


    Please help, I am clueless!
     
  2. jbtine
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 214

    jbtine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sounds like your kickdown linkage in either not adjusted right or not hooked up at all.
     
  3. Find a shop manual specifically for the car and adjust the kick-down linkage as stated in the book.
     
  4. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,535

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    Change the transmission fluid and filter (you have to remove the transmission oil pan) adjust the bands, reinstall the pan, fill with fresh oil, and adjust the kick down lever.
    Changing from an automatic to manual trans in a Fury III will be and expensive and difficult proposition. Depending on what year your Fury is, manual transmissions may not have ever been installed as a factory option. You would be way farther ahead to have your current transmission rebuilt. Gene
     
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  5. bigolbubba
    Joined: May 5, 2013
    Posts: 5

    bigolbubba
    Member

    Thanks everyone! I'm pretty good with the fab work but not so good with mechanics. Ill grab a manual and get to work!!
     
  6. hobiehunter
    Joined: Apr 7, 2013
    Posts: 32

    hobiehunter
    Member

  7. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member

    All this is good advice but give some more detail and what is going on. Is it firm in the selected gear or slushy? Or is it just slushy shifts? Does it slip if you put it in manual 2nd and stand on it? Slip in reverse?
    The first thing I do on 727 and 904 when they start slipping is check the fluid level (warm and in "N" NOT in park) smell the fluid, if it smells burn and looks black 9 out of 10 times a rebuild is in order. A few times when I changed the fluid and adjusted the bands all would be good for a few more miles then it would give up all together.
    On a side note 727 and 904 do not converter fill (much) in Park that is why you need to check fluid in Neutral. Also if you want to help your tranny live longer, when shifting from park to any gear count to 5 before giving it gas. This gives the converter time to fill and get proper pressure to the clutches and band servos before you try to move.
     
  8. Rocket man 88
    Joined: Sep 23, 2007
    Posts: 121

    Rocket man 88
    Member

    I have a 65 sport that acted the same...rear pump torque flite floor shift...ended up being a bad pump ...rebuild kit wasn't to extremely pricey and they are not as diffficult as you would think to put a seal and band kit into
     
  9. bigolbubba
    Joined: May 5, 2013
    Posts: 5

    bigolbubba
    Member

    I think I found atleast part of my problem, the kickdown linkage is missing. So I am now on the hunt for one.....any places I should look???
     
  10. Dane
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,353

    Dane
    Member
    from Soquel, CA

    You might need a rebuild. They don't like being run with no "kick down"
     
  11. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member


    Yep the kick down effects line pressure. No kickdown linkage (or misadjusted) will cause low line pressure resulting in low holding pressure on clutches and band servos. Couple that with being in a Fury III (4000 lb+) and you probably need a trans rebuild.:confused:
     
  12. yep, no kickdown and driven for a while with low line pressure - fried clutches - rebuild it with some Kolene clutches, and while it's apart block the accumulator and up the line pressure adjustment on the valve body.
     
  13. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,510

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

  14. Lokar makes one too, but I think this Kit requires less dabbing
     
  15. 35desoto
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 761

    35desoto
    Member

    Being a Fury III you need to look for the C body stuff. A google search will find you some one/wrecker and I have a couple of sites saved somewhere for my OT 68 Chyrsler T+C. The linkage should not be that hard to find on a wreck 95% of them were auto's so its a manner of seeing what's out there. I'm pretty sure the Plymouth is similar to the big Dodge and all the Chryslers of a similar period - 65 through to 69/70 should yield something useable for you
     
  16. bigolbubba
    Joined: May 5, 2013
    Posts: 5

    bigolbubba
    Member

    Man, I really hope its not that far gone. I'm working on getting the kickdown assembly now, so we will see. I really appreciate the help!!!!!!!!!!
     
  17. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member

    Wow I just checked out that kit. Looks like good quality but a real PITA to me. I think the stock Mopar is way easier to use.

    I have about 3 boxes of kickdown linkage. They are not sorted but I maybe able to help if you know what you need.
     
  18. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member


    Whats the fluid look and smell like. If it looks black and smells burnt it is gone that far. :(

    Also if you just want to see if it will work without slipping, wire the kickdown lever so it is about half way back. This will tell the trans you are about 2/3 throttle. Take it out for a test drive in "D" and see how it shifts. Your shifts will be at a higher RPM because the lever is wired back but if the shifts are good and no slipping you should be OK. if it still slips you need a rebuild.

    If you do end up needing a rebuild I have a contact that can get all the good stuff for cheep. The 727 in my Chrysler I used the good stuff (kevlar kickdown band, HP red clutches and konene steels) for about $200 in parts.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
  19. Nothing is simpler than the mid to late 70's on piece kick down rod - but you need firewall clearance for it. The 3 piece works well - when you have all the pieces (clips, rods, bell cranks, levers, posts) and making them work on dual quads, tunnels rams, blowers etc. can be a PITA. This is where the cable would shine I think, plus no need to look for all the parts for the linkage.
     
  20. Got a question, do the 904's use kickdowns?? I was told they didn't... And the one I took out of a 79 cordoba didn't have one

    I also want to add that the trans doesn't seem to shift weird or anything unusual, but I know I don't have a kickdown on it at all. This trans is now in my 50 dodge and I've been driving it quite a bit...
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
  21. Scratch that, I just found out it does. Oh the joys of building cars
     
  22. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member


    Yes I have to figure out what I'll do for the tunnel on the Chrysler. Maybe the cable?
     
  23. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member


    If the car is light and you don't hammer it the trans can last a while without it. Or if the line pressure adjustment has been screwed in to increase line pressure it will last but your shifta will be high.
     
  24. I wouldn't think my 50 dodge is very light but i definitely haven't been hammering on it. I was able to order the lokar kickdown set up for a 904 yesterday at a local parts place and ill be able to pick it up today.
     
  25. monc440
    Joined: Feb 1, 2011
    Posts: 260

    monc440
    Member


    If the KD wasn't hooked up BUT the trans has not started slipping yet you should be fine.

    In the case of the OP his wasn't hooked up, it is a heavy car AND the trans is slipping so it prob needs a rebuild.
     
  26. tikiwagon13
    Joined: Feb 23, 2011
    Posts: 371

    tikiwagon13
    Member

    drop the tranny pan, if there are bits and it smells burst, you need a rebuild. I am just finishing up mine, not a real big deal, they are fairly straight foward, mine just needed a clutch kit, the kickdown was out of adjustment when I bought it so it was already on its way.
     
  27. Now I'm just trying to get my lokar cable properly adjusted. I set it up the way the instructions say to and is shifted super late and pretty hard from 1 to 2, and 2 to 3, so I'm driving it and loosening the cable every couple of blocks until I get it feeling right.

    Is there a rule of thumb to this or is it done by feel??
     
  28. factory service manuals have a chart with the speeds at which it should shift at part throttle - by feel works too.

    Also, what they don't tell you in the Lokar kit is that there are at least two different length kickdown arms (the lever that clamps onto the shaft on the trans - this will throw you way off too.

    I believe it should be a one to one ratio - measure the distance from the centre of the throttle shaft to the hole the cable is running off of and compare it to the kickdown lever - you may have to redrill the hole inward to match.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013

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